David Brodati, DipWSET
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Reviews
Radford Dale Vinum Chenin Blanc 2018, Stellenbosch
South Africa$18.95
South Africa can provide some of the best price/quality ratios available in the wine world, particularly from its signature white varietal Chenin. The Radford Dale is case in point, along with Ken Forrester's Chenin (both in the $18 range). A fairly complex nose of pear, lime and peach fruit is complemented by sage and minerality. The palate is slightly viscous (lees contact) and the colour is more gold than lemon. Of course, the acidity is vibrant as one would expect from Chenin, and the length is excellent. Jan. 2022.
3.5 Stars
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Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2014, Swartland
Swartland, South Africa$12.95
Great value in a juicy well balanced syrah. A lovely complex nose of dark fruit (blueberry, black cherry), cedar, black pepper, violets and a meaty note. 14.5% ABV, but doesn't feel heavy on the palate, likely due to good acidity offering a sense of freshness. Not overly tannic although there's good structure from the tannins. Very good length. Feb. 2016.
3.5 Stars
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Hidden Bench Estate Riesling 2014, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$24.95
A fine organic Bench Riesling from Hidden Bench. Aromatic intensity with green apple, pear, lime and plenty of minerality. On the palate the acidity is bright, fruit is citrusy- tart and length is excellent. Well priced to boot. Nov. 2016.
3.5 Stars
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Abbazia Di Novacella Müller Thurgau 2014, Doc Valle Isarco Alto Adige
Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy$15.75
Italy's most northerly wine area in the Isarco Valley of Alto Adige is able to truly express German varieties like this Muller Thurgau. Fairly intense floral aromas with apple, nutmeg, almond and salt/minerality. Bright acidity from the high altitude gives freshness. The mouthfeel is medium bodied, and the length is very good to excellent. A very reasonable price puts this squarely in bargain value territory, given the quality here. Nov. 2016.
3.5 Stars
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Creekside Syrah 2013, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$15.95
Ok, so the press isn't broken, but this is still a nice Syrah. Medium bodied with crunchy vibrant acidity. Red fruit, pepper, spice, anise, a suggestion of meat. But the line between juicy tart sour and overt greeness is a thin one. Oak is not overdone, tannin is soft and fine and length is excellent. Nov. 2015.
3.5 Stars
13th Street Gamay 2016, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$19.95
Gamay is climbing the ladder and in my view is in the top 3 (along with Cab Franc and Pinot) for quality red varietals in Ontario. 13th Street's 2016 offering is a great example. Earthy and sour with beetroot, tart cherry, red berry, nutmeg, spice, an herbal quality and wet stone minerality. Juicy acidity, medium + body, soft tannin and chalky mouthfeel. Food friendly as all good Gamay should be. Scores on complexity, balance, typicity and length. June 2018.
3.5 Stars
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Keint He Little Creek Pinot Noir 2014, Prince Edward County
Ontario, Canada$38.00
The Little Creek Pinot captures the essence of County Pinot. It straddles the fine line between austerity and elegance. Enticing aromas of sour cherry, cranberry, salty minerality, spice and nutmeg. Vibrant acidity overlays a light to medium bodied mouthfeel with mild tannin and very good length. Very food friendly. Try with grilled salmon. Oct. 2017.
3.5 Stars
Caparzo Brunello Di Montalcino 2011, Docg
Tuscany, Italy$49.95
Showing volatile acidity that blows off with a bit of air, but I'd drink up if you have a bottle or two left. Garnet in colour. Mature nose and flavours in the dried red fruit spectrum, dried violet, savoury notes, cinnamon, soy, and cedar. Tannins are very resolved but a hint of graininess pokes through showing a bit of life yet. Acidity has kept this wine going. The length is excellent. A nice example of mature Brunello. March 2020.
3.5 Stars
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Louis M. Martini Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
California, Usa$39.95
Decent value for a Napa Valley Cab especially when on sale (as a Vintages Essential, this happens at times). Dark berry, cassis with oak that's not over the top, displaying vanilla, chocolate and cedar. Fairly balanced despite a whopping 15.5% ABV (warming rather than burning). Just enough acidity. Ripe tannin that are softening. Very good to excellent length. Not poised or elegant, but hey, for a Napa Cab from a warm vintage in the $30's, can't go wrong. Dec. 2018.
3.5 Stars
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Casale Del Giglio Cesanese 2014, Igt Lazio Rosso
Italy$18.95
A great find and good on the LCBO to bring this wine based on the native Lazio Cesanese grape to Ontario. Medium full bodied with good concentration of red berry and cherry fruit, along with spice, tea, vanilla and minerality. Fine grained tannin, bright acidity and very good to excellent length. Sept. 2017.
3.5 Stars
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