David Brodati, DipWSET
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Reviews
Domaine Pavelot Aux Gravains Savigny Les Beaune 1er Cru 2013, Ac
Burgundy, France$47.75
This 1er Cru offering shows traditional Bourgogne earthiness but also shines a spotlight on the sour tart cran and cherry fruit. I detected what I suspect is Brett (bandaid, barnyard) in a magnitude that challenged my threshold line of what I consider fault versus added complexity. This has held back my score a point or two. Bright medium plus acidity, earthy, mineral, spice with nutmeg and cinnamon, some bitterness. Supple dusty tannin. Medium body and excellent length. April 2018.
Federico Curtaz Il Purgatorio 2017, D.O.C. Etna Rosso
Sicily, Italy$59.97
I really have fallen in love with Etna Rosso and my dalliance with this 100% Nerello Mascalese is no exception. Aromas are beguiling with pot pouri, red berry, cherry, balsamic, wood spice and cigar box. The palate is well structured and balanced with tannins still very notable but resolving, acidity bright and 14% alcohol giving weight but not heat. Length is excellent. Drinking nicely now with fruit drying and tertiary notes emerging. It can cellar for a few years yet if savoury notes rather than fruit is your thing. March 2024.
J. Moreau & Fils Fourchaume Chablis 1er Cru 2018, Ac
Burgundy, France$55.95
Everything you want in a 1er Cru Chablis. Flavour intensity, balance, length of finish and typical minerality. Lemon lime citrus pops then minerality takes over, then a savoury herb like quality, then the ride starts all over again. Oak is judicious and integrated as it should be for a Chablis Cru. Acidity is mouthwatering but not at all harsh. And lees contact adds a nice texture to the mouthfeel. This paired nicely with sage roasted chicken in a garlic wine sauce and latkes (potato pancakes), with the fresh acidity being a great foil to the greasy garnish. Tasted Dec. 2022.
Guilhem & Jean Hugues Goisot La Ronce 2018, Bourgogne Côtes D'auxerre
Burgundy, France$52.80
A beautiful Bourgogne Pinot, displaying quite intense aromas and flavours of roses, sour cherry, raspberry, earthy beetroot, spicy nutmeg and cinnamon, and oaky vanillin and cedar. The frame is medium bodied with fairly soft ripe tannins and juicy vibrant acidity. Scores on complexity, balance, concentration and a lovely long finish. Wish I'd bought more bottles. Oct. 2022.
Leaning Post Chardonnay Senchuk Vineyard 2019, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore
Ontario, Canada$50.00
Hitting 5 years old and in that sweet spot where fruit is still fresh but secondary notes of malo and oak are integrated nicely and tertiary notes starting to emerge. Apple, lemony citrus, peach, herbs, toast, butter, honey, minerality. Vibrant and juicy acidity, with excellent to outstanding length. This paired beautifully with grilled lemon-Dijon salmon filets.
Estate Argyros Assyrtiko 2020, P.D.O.
Santorini, Greece$45.00
Beautiful texture and mouthfeel on this Santorini Assyrtiko. Lemony citrus, saline tangy minerality and spice dominate the flavours. Full bodied with 14.5% abv showing weight and the slightest hint of anise. Lovely balance, very vibrant and outstanding length. Pair this with lemon drenched calamari, village salad featuring briny olives and souvlaki.
Lantides Abyss Assyrtiko 2020, P.G.I. Peloponnese
Peloponnese, Greece$39.95
Not your typical Assyrtiko from, say, traditional Santorini wind swept volcanic bush vines which gives minerally, salty almost austere qualities. Yes there's a mineral edge here, but more mainland voluptuousness. Intense nose with tropical notes (pineapple really pops), lemony citrus, honey, herbs, caramel and toast. The fruit is ripe giving an almost sweet sensation and it balances the significant oak and alcohol. Just enough acidity to trim the roundness a shade. The weight sits full on the mouth and the length is excellent to outstanding. Feb. 2024
Hinterland Brut Rosé Traditional Method 2019, VQA Prince Edward County
Ontario, Canada$39.95
Beautiful red florals, red berries and lovely autolytic notes. A texturally sumptuous palate featuring fine refreshing mousse. Essentially quite brut, but the fruit suggests a sense of sweetness. The lingering length is so enjoyable. A well executed TM sparkler. Oct. 2024
Alvear Solera 1927 Pedro Ximénez, Do Montilla Moriles, Spain (375ml)
Andalusia, Spain$30.95
The complexity of flavours stands out in this lusciously sweet PX sherry. So mahogany dark and rich on the palate, viscous, almost cloying. But the variety of aromas/flavours just keep coming like waves over the palate, including stewed prune, dates, fig, raisins, molasses, honey, chocolate, caramel, tea, soy/hoisin and more. Scores on complexity and length. Pair with dried fruit based desserts, nuts or blue cheese. Dec. 2016.
Hidden Bench Fume Blanc Rosomel Vineyard 2016, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$29.95
All the inputs are there: excellent vintage, organic viticulture, single vineyard, hand harvested. Then the wine making style gives direction, with indigenous yeast and judicious use of oak in combo with stainless steel. A Fume style that is restrained on the oak with attention to texture. Sauv. Blanc typicity shows, but complexity from oak and a creamy rounder mouthfeel take centre stage. Yet balance and structure is achieved with supporting acidity and 13% abv. Very well done. Sept. 2018.