Andrew Hunter
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Andrew Hunter is a musician and composer. He abandoned his career in film and television to raise his kids, make music and drink wine.
My love of wine started with underage sips at the family dinner table. In college I fancied myself a sophisticate as I drank Chianti with pizza, back when Chianti still came in wicker 'fiasco' bottles. (I miss those, great candle holders.) I admit to still having a soft spot for Mateus. Cheap, sweet wine in a chubby bottle was just fine. Back then all I knew about wine was that there was red, white and pink (and girls really liked that white zinfandel!). It was years later, when I started to frequent some of Toronto's finer restaurants, that vinous epiphanies began to occur. Sips of wine that caused quiet pause and an exclamation of, "oh...wow."
I began to read everything I could about wine. I built a cellar and started collecting bottles. My taste evolved from sweet, easy-drinking, fruit-forward wines to the more old-world styles of France and Italy. I tend to prefer wines that are understated and complex over the super-extracted fruit-bombs which seem to be increasingly fashionable. I'll generally take Bordeaux over Napa and Tuscany over Australia. But there are always exceptions!
I'm a huge fan of sweet wines. I rarely meet an ice wine or Sauternes that I don't like. I also get along very well with Port.
Riesling is my favorite white, along with Viognier, Gerwurztraminer and Santorini Assyrtiko. Chardonnay is my least favorite. No matter how much I spend or how great the pedigree, I have yet to be blown away. Somewhere out there is a really delicious Chardonnay. I'm still looking for it.
My busy life leaves little time for blogging but at the very least I review every wine I taste.
There's nothing more subjective than art...Except perhaps wine. At our wine club I'm always pleased when someone prefers the $12 wine to the $50 wine (unfortunately it never seems to be me). For all it's pretentiousness and hype wine is a just a drink, either you like it or you don't. There is no right or wrong. It's all about discovering what you like!
In my wine reviews I try to describe the wine in a simple, unpretentious way. My aim is to help the reader decide if it's a wine they might like or want to avoid.
Of course, I'll tell you if I like it or not, but also, unlike many professional critics, I write with the clear assumption that what you like and what I like may very well be opposite. It doesn't matter. I'll tell you if a wine is sweet and fruit-forward and or dry, tannic and savory and let you decide.
http://torontowineguy.blogspot.com/
Reviews
Clos De Los Siete 2008, Mendoza
Mendoza, Argentina$23.95
Interesting blend. Full bodied, quite complex on the palate. Big, but a bit contrived. That sounds pretentious but what I mean is that it tastes over-manipulated, like it's been designed to be "interesting". Nevertheless I liked it despite it tasting a bit manufactured. If there were cola tastings I'd still give Pepsi a 90. Most people at a dinner table will enjoy this..and of course that's the point here isn't it?
Rioja Bordón Gran Reserva 2004, Doca Rioja
Rioja, Spain$24.95
Fruit, wood and spice on the nose. On the palate there's something almost bordeaux about this. Old-world dry without being austere. Medium-full bodied. Tangy berry flavours with wood, herbs and some earthiness. Quite dry but tannins in balance.
An honest Rioja with enough complexity to make it worth the price.
Zenato Rosso 2009, Igt Veneto
Veneto, Italy$13.15
This bottle may not be completely indicative of the wine. A distinct barn-yardy waft upon opening. Initially off-putting but I've had many Brunellos with a similar thing. It blew off after a while to reveal old leather, dark stewed berries, anise and smoke on the nose. Full body, plenty of acidity and some rustic tannin. Lots of rustic flavour: cooked strawberries, sour cherry, herbs, some woodiness and astringency. This packs quite a flavour wallop in the mouth. Interesting for the price. Try with a spicy pasta dish.
Concha Y Toro Marques De Casa Concha Carmenere 2010
Chile$19.95
Dark, stewed cherries and cocoa on the nose.
Big and fat on the palate: Blueberry pie, cognac-flambéed cherries jubilee. A hint of smoke, like maybe the guy who sat on your chair before you was smoking a nice cigar. Warm alcohol spine. Well balanced. Long, sweet blackcurrant finish. Heady (14.5%!).
This is a big modern wine but it's not overly sweet with plenty of herbal, savoury notes to avoid tasting too cloying or commercial.
Mission Hill Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2008, VQA Okanagan Valley
British Columbia, Canada$27.95
Soft, mellow nose. Stewed dark berries, some alcoholic prickle. Lot's spicy pepper flavours, dry tannins. Good wine but this one didn't quite live up to it's price. Alcohol still seems a bit out of balance, this will not improve much more.
Decoy Chardonnay 2011, Sonoma County
California, Usa$29.95
88-89
Colour: Pale straw/gold.
Nose: Fresh cut grass. Granny smith apple. A touch of mint, vanilla and petrol.
taste: Medium-full body. Citrus, oaky. Some sweetness. Buttery texture. Plush, with some brightness. Nice finish.
Not generally a fan of oaked california chardonnay but this wasn't bad.
A bit overpriced.
Cono Sur Bicicleta Pinot Noir 2012
Central Valley, Chile$10.95
Fantastic valued Pinot Noir.
Nice nose of cranberry, sour cherry, mint, some earthy vegetable notes.
Light-medium body, tangy cranberry/cherry palate but quite savoury. Serve slightly cool.
Château Haut Vigneau 2006, Ac Pessac Léognan
Bordeaux, France$24.95
Yet another mediocre no-name Bordeaux.
A good, if typical, nose. Medium body. On the palate: Fruit is there but a bit thin, dark berries, a bit woody, some minerality, not too much tannin.
decent, but why bother...
$25 bucks should buy you more than average.
Castelgreve Chianti Classico Riserva 2009, Docg
Tuscany, Italy$19.95
I liked this quite a bit. Nose is a bit tight but there a hint of some complexity in there. Medium-full body, great balance of sweet and savoury: Dense fruit, some earthy/leathery/mushroomy flavours, anise, herbs (bay leaf?). Moderate tannin, good sour finish. An easy drinking but fairy complex and very well balanced wine. For my tastes, a perfect all-purpose, all-rounder.
Banfi Brunello Di Montalcino 2004, Docg
Tuscany, Italy$54.95
Nice maturing Brunello. Initial tight nose opened up with decanting to reveal blackberry and herbs. Dry and savory with black cherry, black currants, anise and plenty of tannin. A well balanced but rustic brunello with decent fruit concentration. Long, dry finish.
Very good with food but hardly a classic example and not really worth $60. Some life left in this but I'd say if you have any drink it up with some rich food. This was very nice with a mushroom, squash & blue cheese risotto.
(Feb. '12)