David Brodati, DipWSET
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Reviews
Pearmund Old Vine Chardonnay 2018, Meriwether Vineyard, Fauquier County, Virginia
Usa$29.95
Here's a complex, balanced and richly textured Chard from Virginia. Primary notes of buttercup florals, pear, peach, citrus and melon along with nicely integrated oak flavours including hazelnut and caramel and a buttery diacetyl character from Malo. The texture is rich and creamy. Acidity is bright enough to balance the richness and there's even a reductive note too. Length is excellent. Pair with rich cheese with a nutty note. April 2022.
De Loach Durell Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009, Sonoma Coast
California, Usa$55.00
Opened this Cali Pinot for Thanksgiving and it matched beautifully with turkey dinner, drawing in the berry sweetness of cranbury sauce but having enough earthyness for the savoury stuffing. A lifted nose, with lovely concentrated fruit. It is plush with good structure including acidity and waning but still present tannins. Excellent length. Oct. 2014.
Hidden Bench Terroir Caché 2015, Unfiltered, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment
Ontario, Canada$44.95
The 2015 is equal parts Cab Franc and Merlot, followed by Malbec and a splash of Cab Sauv. Elevage was 20 months in French oak, of which some must have been new judging by the flavour profile. Red and dark fruit, with an herbal and cedary element, vanilla and sweet baking spice. The tannins have polymerized and are fairly smooth with just a bit of traction left. Medium bodied, so nicely integrated and beautifully balanced. Drinking really well now. Excellent length. Dec. 2020.
Domaine De Bila-haut L'Esquerda 2016
Languedoc, France$27.95
Dark, opaque, inky purple. Very extracted with stained tears. Aromas of violets, dark fruit (almost stewed) and wet stone minerality. The mouthfeel is big and lush with black cherry, prune, fig, spice, black pepper and smoke. Tannins are ripe and slightly tacky. It's a big wine with high alcohol, but fairly well integrated with only a touch of burn heat on the swallow. Medium acidity and a touch of VA lift provides balance. Length is excellent. Enjoy over the next 5 years with meat stews, cassoulet, bbq fare, hard cheese. April 2019.
Flat Rock The Rusty Shed Chardonnay 2013, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$26.95
Wow, given the quality relative to the price point for this Bench Chard, this is a steal. Aromas of apple, pear, melon, citrus with well integrated oak, creamy mouthfeel, balanced acidity and excellent length. Aug. 2016.
Hidden Bench Terroir Caché Meritage 2009, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$38.20
This deep ruby Bordeaux blend offers aromas of raw meat, cassis, dark fruit, anise, dill and other herbal notes. It's medium bodied on the palate, juicy, with sticky and pleasant tannins that are softening as we speak. Nicely balanced, this Meritage is well suited for prime rib dinners. It's drinkable over the next 3 to 4 years - just in time for the more heralded 2010 vintage to come into its own. Dec. 2014.
Cape Of Good Hope Serruria Chardonnay 2019, W.O. Elandskloof, Overberg
South Africa$25.75
This chard hits many marks - it's balanced, complex, intensely flavoured and long. Notes of yellow apple, peach, pineapple, caramel, spice and diacetyl (buttery) notes indicative of Malo conversion. Medium to full bodied with a lovely creamy mouthfeel indicating lees contact. The fruit's high elevation provides freshness and vibrant acidity. Great value here for fans of bigger oaked Chards but that still give a sense of freshness. Aug. 2023.
Olivier & Lafont Gigondas 2013, Ac
Rhône, France$23.75
A lovely Gigondas offering very good Southern Rhone value. Red cherry and plum fruit, black pepper and subtle, well integrated oak influence of baking spice and pencil shavings. I detect some Brett coming through as a sweaty and barnyard funk, but not as a fault, more nuanced adding complexity. Tannin are moderate. Full bodied, balanced and very good to excellent length. Drinking well now, but will continue to evolve and be in a prime drinking window for an additional 5-7 years. May 2018.
Verbena Brunello Di Montalcino 2009
Tuscany, Italy$39.95
Ah to catch a fine wine at the apex of its evolutionary curve is a special thing. Verbena's 2009 Brunello will no doubt go another seven to ten years before the fading accelerates to the "drink up" category, but I think it's peaking now. Still some primary and secondary aromas lurking with violet, baked cherry, jammy red berry, tomato leaf, nutmeg, cumin and oak vanillin. But savoury is the order of the day as tertiary leather and tobacco gain a stronghold, and a touch of complexing VA. Elegance, warmth (the 14.5 ABV doesn't burn), declining acidity, dusty tannin and excellent length. Oct. 2018
Finca Constancia Altos De La Finca 2011, Vino De La Tierra De Castilla
Spain$21.95
This blend featuring Petit Verdot and Syrah, not surprisingly, shows dark fruit in the black cherry, cassis, black/blueberry realm with violet, black olive and meatiness to add complexity. 18 months of new oak is quite integrated and will coalesce further, revealing vanilla and a vague tarry molasses flavour. Structure is provided by juicy acidity, alcohol heat and still sticky granular tannin. Will yet improve with age as fruit concentration, tannin and oak continue to mind meld. Excellent length. 91-92 pts. June 2017.