David Brodati, DipWSET
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Reviews
Hinterland Les Etoiles 2012, Prince Edward County
Ontario, Canada$39.00
The 12 Les Etoiles is a traditional method sparkler from Hinterland's estate fruit. I love the freshness, vibrancy, poise and balance of this PEC sparkling wine. There's notes of apple, doughy bread and minerality. The bubbles are very fine and persistent. The structure is medium body with racy acidity. The length is excellent. Wonderful quaff to toast a celebtration, but equally nimble at the table. Jan. 2017.
Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc 2018, Marlborough, South Island
Marlborough, New Zealand$24.95
Enjoyed this lovely NZ SB on International Sauvignon Blanc Day May 1st. Great typicity for Marlborough SB. Pyrazines, thiols and esters in nice harmony and balance. Intense herbaceous flavours of green pea and asparagus, along with gooseberry, grapefruit and tropical notes (guava). Vibrant acidity. Somewhat reductive and minerally. All what one would expect from Marlborough SB, but for me, the texture raises this above the norm. Excellent length as well. Nicely done. May 2020.
Ferraton Père & Fils La Matinière Crozes Hermitage 2017, Ac, Rhône
Rhône, France$26.95
Garnet at the rim and aromas of blue flowers, dark fruit, meatiness, pepper, herbal-cedar (garrigue) and VA (not faulty, rather adding interest and complexity). The length is excellent. Moving towards the end of its run, so enjoy sooner than later. A nice Croze Hermitage to be sure. June 2022.
La Copa Vermouth Rojo, Jerez, Spain
Rioja, Spain$21.95
Wow, the amped aromatics on this Spanish Vermouth are striking. Complexity abounds with aromas and flavours of clove, nutmeg, cinnamon, fruit cake, vanilla bean, varnish, orange peel, honey, florals, perfume/soap and on and on. Interesting interplay between sweet and bitter, a paso doble rather than a coalescent whole. Medium minus acidity and a viscous mouthfeel. Pleasant bitter medicinal finish. Love it. July 2017.
Diamandes De Uco Gran Reserva 2008, Mendoza
Mendoza, Argentina$32.75
A beautiful well crafted high altitude Uco Valley wine. Scores on concentration of fruit, complexity, balance and length. Dark and red fruit co-mingle with savoury umami notes in the soy sauce genre. Full bodied, rich but with balancing acidity that provides a sense of freshness. It's in a great phase of development now, still sporting a youthful jauntiness, but with tannin softening nicely. Drink now and over the next 7 years. Dec. 2017.
Dr. Loosen Berkasteler Lay Riesling Kabinett 2017, Pradikatswein, Mosel
Mosel, Germany$29.95
Lovely Mosel Kabinett Riesling. Nicely complex with aromatics and flavours of apple, lime, grapefruit, ginger, honey, petrol and wet stone. Spot on Mosel Riesling typicity. Comes across as medium sweet with beautifully balanced acidity. And excellent length on the palate. So to summarize, scores on complexity, typicity, balance and length. Throw in great value and you've got what should be a multi-bottle purchase. Alas, I only bought two bottles which are now, sadly, empty. December 2020.
Galil Mountain Yiron 2013, Upper Galilee
Israel, World$27.75
Big and bold Cab dominant red blend. Non-mevushal kosher. Good concentration and depth of flavour in this full bodied wine. 15.5% abv declared but doesn't feel hot, just nicely warming. Over-ripe to baked fruit in the prune and black cherry spectrum, with herb and vanillin/chocolate from the oak that, while obviously present, doesn't protrude beyond its intended boundaries. Mild tannin and excellent length. April 2018.
Emiliana Coyam 2019, Los Robles Estate, Colchagua Valley
Colchagua Valley, Chile$29.95
The kitchen sink! 9 varieties! Almost every page of Jancis Robinson's "Wine Grapes" tome is represented in this blend (ok, slight exaggeration). Part Bordeaux, part southern Rhone, part Rioja foretells the complexity with, for example, Petit Verdot and Cab Sauv providing floral aromatic intensity, Syrah and Mourvedre giving meatiness and tar, Tempranillo, Garnacha and Carignan showing red fruits and the Bordeaux varieties imparting dark fruit. Judicious oak, ripe tannins, vibrant acidity are all nicely balanced. Excellent length. And organic to boot. Tasted Jan 2023.
Marqués De Murrieta Finca Ygay Reserva 2012, Doca Rioja
Rioja, Spain$34.95
This Rioja Reserva is drinking beautifully now, showing only a hint of garnet at the rim, and with a nice balance between fruit, secondary and tertiary notes. About 3/4 Tempranillo with the rest Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo (Carinena) which umphs the acidity. Both red and dark fruit with lovely sweet spice (vanilla and coconut) from 23 months in American oak. Sandalwood, tomato paste, leather, tobacco, oregano and olive. Tannins are sweet and soft and the length is excellent. Traditional, distinguished and oh so quaffable. Jan. 2024
Il Poggio Taburno Sannio Coda Di Volpe 2018, Dop
Campania, Italy$17.95
Love to see more obscure native Italian grape varieties come through the LCBO. This fox's tail from Campania scores on complexity, balance and length. A lot going on here for the price, with aromas and flavours of citrus, stone fruit, honey, spice, iodine, mineralty and that signature Italian white wine element: almond. It's texturally pleasing with a leesy weightiness. The 14% abv adds to the weight and structure and provides a late palate warmth. Length is excellent. Great value. July 2020.