David Brodati, DipWSET
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Reviews
Barossa Valley Estate Ebenezer Shiraz 2007, Barossa Valley, South Australia
South Australia, Australia$39.95
Beautiful, bountiful, bold Barossa big boy. Full, rich, dense yet with a refined flow to its gait, rather than an agressive swagger. A wonderfully complex and enticing nose. Flavours of concentrated fruit, eucalyptus, judiciously integrated oak influences. Tannins are manageable and there's balanced acidity and excellent to outstanding length. It's an amped but stylish Shiraz that is drinking well now but also has the stuffing to last another 7-10 years. Dec. 2014.
Leaning Post Lowrey Pinot Noir 2011, VQA St. David's Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$38.00
Ilya Senchuk's Pinots sourced from the Lowrey vineyard are consistently good vintage to vintage. The '11 from a cooler vintage offers earthiness, cherry and red berry fruit, baking spice and minerality. The palate is medium plus body with medium plus acidity, dusty tannin and a lengthy finish. Nicely balanced. April 2016.
Reichsgraf Von Kesselstatt Nies'chen Riesling Kabinett 2006, Pradikätswein
Mosel, Germany$19.95
A minerally, petrol and floral nose with notes of ginger, apricot, apple and honey. Similar notes on the palate with a creamy, honeyed but not unctuous mouthfeel due to well balanced acidity. Comes off more like a Spatlese than a Kabinett. Excellent wine and a steal at under $20. August 2014.
Castello Di Ama San Lorenzo 2011
Tuscany, Italy$54.95
Well I always thought the Gran Selezione category at the top of the Chianti quality pyramid was more savvy marketing to justify elevated prices rather than a true quality designation, but if this Castello Di Ama San Lorenzo is anything to go by, then I'm now a believer. There's purity and concentration of fruit, complexity, balance, structure and excellent length. Cherry, ferrous sanguine character, balsamic, tobacco, mocha, graphite, nutmeg, cinnamon and clove. Juicy acidity, ripe tannins and pleasing warmth on a medium plus frame. Prime drinking window. Nov. 2018
Il Grappolo Sassocheto Brunello Di Montalcino 2010
Tuscany, Italy$58.00
Garnet red in the glass doesn't belie this Brunello's age. Traditional in style. Umami driven nose of leather, tobacco, earth, dried flowers. Fruit is drying too. Some oxidation showing as may be expected. High acidity, high alcohol and drying tannin that is still grippy. Complexity and excellent length, but I wouldn't cellar too much longer. Enjoy while you can. Dec. 2018.
Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Spätlese 2014, Pradikätswein
Mosel, Germany$39.95
A brilliant Spatlese here. Objectively it scores on complexity, balance, length and typicity. Subjectively, scores on being freekin delicious. It portrays notes of ripe apple, peach, apricot, marmalade, grilled pineapple, melon, candied ginger, honey and that wonderful Mosel minerality. The balance is impeccable with interplay between acidity and sweetness giving the impression of medium dry. I paired this with a butternut squash bisque finished with a dollop of maple syrup - sublime (or in this case subapricot). It's drinking lovely now, but can easily go another decade. Dec. 2019.
Brezza Cannubi Barolo 2012, Docg
Piedmont, Italy$73.00
A lovely elegant Barolo from the famed Cannubi vineyard northeast of the village. Showing its age both in colour (garnet brick) and aromas/flavour with dried rose petal, hay, prune and fig. Additional complexity with marzipan, sour cherry, tea, liquorice, cinnamon and a tarry molasses/burnt sugar note. Contemplative indeed. Juxtapositional: it's dry but has an almost sweet essence with the marzipan, burnt sugar; still tannic but smooth mouthfeel; light in colour but wonderfully intense. The length is excellent. Enjoy now. March 2025
Norman Hardie Chardonnay Sans Soufre 2015, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$45.00
This wine is just plain delicious. The consistent quality of Norm's output sometimes results in consumer complacency - yeah, another good Norman Hardie (yawn). But the Sans Soufre for me is a reminder of this man's talent. Complexity, balance, refinement, length. Apple, lemon, lime, quince, honey, slightly minty, iodine, minerality. Creamy malo texture, vibrant with excellent length. Well done. Soufre not needed. Nov. 2017.
Southbrook Poetica Red 2012, VQA Niagara On The Lake, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$54.95
The 2012 vintage of Southbrook's top tier red blend is all about elegance. 2012 was an excellent vintage in Niagara and this estate grown biodynamic meritage consists of 46% Cab Sauv, 26% each Cab Franc and Petit Verdot, with a soupcon of Merlot. Intensely perfumed pot pourri, rosemary, red fruit (raspberry, cherry) with cassis in the dried spectrum, oak derived aromas of baking spices, cedar and vanillin, and tertiary notes of balsamic and licorice. In other words, complex. But also harmonious with balanced acidity and soft tannins. Length is excellent. Drinking beautifully now. Feb 2022.
Lightfoot And Wolfville Chardonnay Ancienne Reserve 2013
Nova Scotia, Canada$56.00
An excellent minerally driven chard from the Annapolis. You can pick out the fruit but why bother when the minerality screams for oysters. There's palate pleasing texture and well integrated oak that adds some spice, ginger and a hint of cedar to the complexity. Acidity adds structure and increases the food friendly nature. Very good to excellent length. July 2017.
