David Brodati, DipWSET
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Reviews
Le Clos Jordanne Le Grand Clos Chardonnay 2017, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$44.95
Thomas Bachelder shows what cool climate chardonnay can aspire to in Niagara. And this wine is certainly aspirational. There's intensity of aroma and flavour, with green fruit and some citrus, spice, honey, butter, toast, white flower and minerality, so in a word: complex. Oak is integrated and judicious. The balance is impeccable with acidity providing a structural spine. The length is excellent to outstanding. But it's the texture that is so compelling. MLF, lees stirring or whatever, but the mouthfeel is beautiful, rich, creamy, spicy, weighty yet all very fresh. Nicely done. Oct. 2020.
Barossa Valley Estate Ebenezer Shiraz 2007, Barossa Valley, South Australia
South Australia, Australia$39.95
Beautiful, bountiful, bold Barossa big boy. Full, rich, dense yet with a refined flow to its gait, rather than an agressive swagger. A wonderfully complex and enticing nose. Flavours of concentrated fruit, eucalyptus, judiciously integrated oak influences. Tannins are manageable and there's balanced acidity and excellent to outstanding length. It's an amped but stylish Shiraz that is drinking well now but also has the stuffing to last another 7-10 years. Dec. 2014.
Pieropan La Rocca Soave Classico 2011, Doc
Veneto, Italy$37.95
Who says Italy doesn't produce world class white wine. What a beautiful Soave (Garganega). I love the intense aromatics here, with pear, apple, melon, honey, wax and leesy butter/cream. The palate also offers complexity with a rich chalky mouthfeel, similar flavour replays as well as a bit of a bite (maceration). Medium plus acidity makes this as friendly at the table as it is a sipper on its own. Excellent length. A tad hot. Drink now or hold 5-7 years or more. Jan. 2016.
Lightfoot And Wolfville Chardonnay Ancienne Reserve 2013
Nova Scotia, Canada$56.00
An excellent minerally driven chard from the Annapolis. You can pick out the fruit but why bother when the minerality screams for oysters. There's palate pleasing texture and well integrated oak that adds some spice, ginger and a hint of cedar to the complexity. Acidity adds structure and increases the food friendly nature. Very good to excellent length. July 2017.
Klipfel Clos Zisser Kirchberg De Barr Grand Cru Gewurztraminer 2010, Ac Alsace Grand Cru
Alsace, France$28.75
Beautiful, complex aged Grand Cru. Classic Gewurz notes of lychee, ginger, rosewater, peach, apricot, honey, spice and florality. Still drinking quite nicely despite 9 years of ageing. Off-dry with medium plus body (13.6% abv), a slightly viscous mouthfeel and medium minus acidity. Excellent length. The few remaining bottles at the LCBO have been discounted making this a steal if you can find it. Enjoyed it with a chicken curry. March 2019.
Leaning Post Lowrey Pinot Noir 2011, VQA St. David's Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$38.00
Ilya Senchuk's Pinots sourced from the Lowrey vineyard are consistently good vintage to vintage. The '11 from a cooler vintage offers earthiness, cherry and red berry fruit, baking spice and minerality. The palate is medium plus body with medium plus acidity, dusty tannin and a lengthy finish. Nicely balanced. April 2016.
Thirty Bench Riesling Small Lot Triangle Vineyard 2013, Beamsville Bench
Ontario, Canada$30.00
I too tasted this wonderful Riesling at the Canadian Wine Scholar Course that David taught. It was amazing, so I made a trip to Thirty Bench to pick up a few bottles. Tried it again recently and came to the same conclusion: Emma Garner is crafting great Ontario Rieslings, but the Triangle Vineyard 2013 may be her best. Aromatic citrus nose with petrol, florals, and more complexity in spades. A lovely mouthfeel, outstanding length and terrific balance of acidity, fruit and RS. Not sure if there's any left at the Winery, but I'd recommend picking some up if available. June 2016.
Brokenwood Hunter Valley Sémillon 2018
New South Wales, Australia$27.95
I love the pronounce flavour/aroma intensity and complexity. Acacia flower, candle wax, apple, lemon, lime, honey and a petrol-like note not dissimilar to an aging Riesling. Very texturally pleasing too. Excellent length. Will no doubt gain interest as it ages as quality Hunter Valley Semillons tend to do. Aug. 2021.
Anne Marie Liegeois Hedges Cuvée Marcel Dupont Les Gosses Vineyard Syrah 2012, Red Mountain, Columbia Valley
Washington, Usa$49.99
A beautiful wine with a pretty purple ruby hue. A lifted nose showing cherry fruit, spice, pepper, meat and a herbal minty character. The mouthfeel is full with concentrated fruit, ripe sticky tannin, chalky minerality and balanced acidity. This is still young and will benefit from cellaring up to 10 years and will evolve beautifully. Red Mountain AVA is warm, dry with south west facing aspects that produce excellent bordeaux varietals and Syrah as evidenced by this 100% Syrah. It's not cheap, but would give higher priced Hermitage a run for its money. Jan. 2016.
Foxen John Sebastiano Vineyard Pinot Noir 2015, Santa Rita Hills, Santa Barbara County
California, Usa$45.75
Fairly intense aromas and flavours of cherry and raspberry, with baking spice, an herbal note and earthiness. It shows integrated oak, smooth ripe tannins and a vibrant tartness to balance the ripe forward fruit. Quintessential Cali Pinot. Scores on length, balance, intensity and typicity. Oct. 2020.