David Brodati, DipWSET
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Reviews
Hidden Bench Terroir Caché Meritage 2009, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$38.20
This deep ruby Bordeaux blend offers aromas of raw meat, cassis, dark fruit, anise, dill and other herbal notes. It's medium bodied on the palate, juicy, with sticky and pleasant tannins that are softening as we speak. Nicely balanced, this Meritage is well suited for prime rib dinners. It's drinkable over the next 3 to 4 years - just in time for the more heralded 2010 vintage to come into its own. Dec. 2014.
4.0 Stars
(0)V
Finca Constancia Altos De La Finca 2011, Vino De La Tierra De Castilla
Spain$21.95
This blend featuring Petit Verdot and Syrah, not surprisingly, shows dark fruit in the black cherry, cassis, black/blueberry realm with violet, black olive and meatiness to add complexity. 18 months of new oak is quite integrated and will coalesce further, revealing vanilla and a vague tarry molasses flavour. Structure is provided by juicy acidity, alcohol heat and still sticky granular tannin. Will yet improve with age as fruit concentration, tannin and oak continue to mind meld. Excellent length. 91-92 pts. June 2017.
4.0 Stars
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Charles Baker Picone Vineyard Riesling 2013, VQA Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Escarpment
Ontario, Canada$35.20
The 2013 Charles Baker Riesling Picone Vineyard epitomizes Niagara Riesling. From the higher cooler Vinemount Ridge, it offers that nervy acidity that is lively and refreshing yet so nicely balances the RS to push perception toward the dry side of off-dry. Complex aromatics featuring citrus notes, apricot, peach, cream and white flower. The palate offers lemony acidity, minerality, a lithe body and very good to excellent length. 2013 has proved itself to be a benchmark vintage for whites in Ontario. Oct. 2017.
4.0 Stars
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Marqués De Cáceres Gran Reserva 2004, Doca Rioja
Rioja, Spain$29.95
This GR Rioja is just starting to hit its stride. It still displays some vibrancy in colour. Aromas are wet leather, barn, meat, cherry and oak. Similar replays on the palate, with cherries, vanilla, spice and mocha. It's medium to full on the mouthfeel with oak noticable but not dominant. There's alcohol heat (served slightly chilled) and tannins are chalky (decant at least 1/2 hour and they'll lose some traction). A seam of acidity allows for a variety of food pairing, but it sips nicely on its own. Feb. 2014.
4.0 Stars
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Château Des Charmes Equuleus Paul Bosc Estate Vineyards 2010, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$30.00
This dark ruby 2010 Bordeaux blend exhibits dark fruit on the nose and palate. French oak aging is manifest by chocolate, spice box and cedar. This is drinking nicely now with decanting or paired with a steak, but tannins still have some grip. It could cellar a few years yet. Very smooth. Excellent length. June 2014.
4.0 Stars
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L'Ecole No. 41 Semillon 2017, Columbia Valley, Washington
Washington, Usa$29.95
A very complex Semillon with some Sauvignon Blanc in support. Notions of peach, pear and citrus give way to herbs and black licorice (from the rather high alcohol). It's full bodied with a whopping 14.5% abv declared that brings about a warmth that sometimes feels like a burn. It's that burn that holds back a higher rating. Nice texture on the palate from the typically oily Semillon, perhaps lees stirring and oak. The length is excellent. An interesting and complex quaff that lingers nicely. Paired nicely with grilled chicken breast marinated in a mustard herb and lime marinade. June 2021.
4.0 Stars
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El Maestro Sierra 12-year-old Amontillado, Do Jerez Xérès Sherry (375ml)
Andalusia, Spain$20.75
This is a lovely Amontillado. Amber-tawny in the glass. Dry with much complexity exhibiting hazelnut, almond skin, toasty caramel, fig, marmalade/orange rind and a dusty character. Amontillado will show more body and be more oxidized than the lighter Fino and Manzanilla, due to the protective flor yeast dying off. The El Maestro Sierra clocks in at 17.5% ABV and some weight is felt on the palate. Well balanced, excellent length and warmth on the late palate. Try with seafood or sip on it's own. March 2018.
4.0 Stars
(0)V
Banfi Brunello Di Montalcino 2016, Docg
Tuscany, Italy$56.95
The 2016 is starting to show some age with garnet colour at the rim and savoury tertiary notes coming to the forefront. The aromas are lifted with violets, cooked black cherry, choco-mocha, balsamic, rosemary, leather and a graphite minerality, i.e. complex. Oak is nicely integrated and tannins are still a touch gritty but polymerizing. Full bodied with warming alcohol, juicy acidity and excellent length. Pair with hearty tomato based pastas or osso buco. June 2022.
4.0 Stars
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Il Poggio Taburno Sannio Coda Di Volpe 2018, Dop
Campania, Italy$17.95
Love to see more obscure native Italian grape varieties come through the LCBO. This fox's tail from Campania scores on complexity, balance and length. A lot going on here for the price, with aromas and flavours of citrus, stone fruit, honey, spice, iodine, mineralty and that signature Italian white wine element: almond. It's texturally pleasing with a leesy weightiness. The 14% abv adds to the weight and structure and provides a late palate warmth. Length is excellent. Great value. July 2020.
4.0 Stars
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Dr. Loosen Berkasteler Lay Riesling Kabinett 2017, Pradikatswein, Mosel
Mosel, Germany$29.95
Lovely Mosel Kabinett Riesling. Nicely complex with aromatics and flavours of apple, lime, grapefruit, ginger, honey, petrol and wet stone. Spot on Mosel Riesling typicity. Comes across as medium sweet with beautifully balanced acidity. And excellent length on the palate. So to summarize, scores on complexity, typicity, balance and length. Throw in great value and you've got what should be a multi-bottle purchase. Alas, I only bought two bottles which are now, sadly, empty. December 2020.
4.0 Stars
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