David Brodati, DipWSET
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Reviews
Banfi Brunello Di Montalcino 2016, Docg
Tuscany, Italy$56.95
The 2016 is starting to show some age with garnet colour at the rim and savoury tertiary notes coming to the forefront. The aromas are lifted with violets, cooked black cherry, choco-mocha, balsamic, rosemary, leather and a graphite minerality, i.e. complex. Oak is nicely integrated and tannins are still a touch gritty but polymerizing. Full bodied with warming alcohol, juicy acidity and excellent length. Pair with hearty tomato based pastas or osso buco. June 2022.
Verbena Brunello Di Montalcino 2009
Tuscany, Italy$39.95
Ah to catch a fine wine at the apex of its evolutionary curve is a special thing. Verbena's 2009 Brunello will no doubt go another seven to ten years before the fading accelerates to the "drink up" category, but I think it's peaking now. Still some primary and secondary aromas lurking with violet, baked cherry, jammy red berry, tomato leaf, nutmeg, cumin and oak vanillin. But savoury is the order of the day as tertiary leather and tobacco gain a stronghold, and a touch of complexing VA. Elegance, warmth (the 14.5 ABV doesn't burn), declining acidity, dusty tannin and excellent length. Oct. 2018
Lungarotti Rubesco Riserva Vigna Monticchio 2010, Doc Torgiano Rosso Riserva
Umbria, Italy$55.95
Aging nicely, this 11 year old Umbrian Sangiovese is quite complex with secondary and tertiary notes complementing the dried fruit. Red plum, cherry, soy, leather, tomato leaf, vanillin, chocolate, and hints of wet paint (adding interest, not at fault levels). Good acidity and dusty tannin that still has some traction. The length is excellent. May hold for a few more years but very enjoyable now. June 2021.
Charles Baker Picone Vineyard Riesling 2012, VQA Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$35.20
The warm vintage brings the fruit profile more front and centre compared to the 2011. Yet there still is lovely minerality, some petrol and refreshing acidity. Well balanced, complex and long. Another excellent effort from CB using fruit sourced from Picone on the ridge. March 2016.
Hedges Family Estate Red 2011, Red Mountain, Yakima Valley
Washington, Usa$40.00
This is a lovely red blend from the Pacific north west. Generous notes of red and dark fruit, herbs, menthol, new oak (vanilla, spices, chocolate). The palate offers good acidity and ripe tannins in a balanced frame to the fruit and integrated oak. Medium-full bodied. Excellent length. Really good value here. July, 2015.
Bellingham Homestead Series The Old Orchards Chenin Blanc 2018, Wo Paarl
Paarl, South Africa$16.95
Great value here. Apple, citrus, some tropical notes and white flower. Searing acidity (that's Chenin for you) but balanced by purity of fruit and a creamy mouthfeel. Excellent length. A steal at $18. March 2020.
Il Poggio Taburno Sannio Coda Di Volpe 2018, Dop
Campania, Italy$17.95
Love to see more obscure native Italian grape varieties come through the LCBO. This fox's tail from Campania scores on complexity, balance and length. A lot going on here for the price, with aromas and flavours of citrus, stone fruit, honey, spice, iodine, mineralty and that signature Italian white wine element: almond. It's texturally pleasing with a leesy weightiness. The 14% abv adds to the weight and structure and provides a late palate warmth. Length is excellent. Great value. July 2020.
Diamandes De Uco Gran Reserva 2008, Mendoza
Mendoza, Argentina$32.75
A beautiful well crafted high altitude Uco Valley wine. Scores on concentration of fruit, complexity, balance and length. Dark and red fruit co-mingle with savoury umami notes in the soy sauce genre. Full bodied, rich but with balancing acidity that provides a sense of freshness. It's in a great phase of development now, still sporting a youthful jauntiness, but with tannin softening nicely. Drink now and over the next 7 years. Dec. 2017.
Rosewood Estates Natural Fermentation Reserve Pinot Noir 2009, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$39.95
I served this lovely Pinot for guests at a dinner party (mushroom bisque and vegetarian paella...thanks for asking). General impressions are that it has wonderful complexity with cherry and berry fruit, judiciously integrated oak and overall good balance. It approaches mid weight on the mouthfeel and has a lengthy finish. It sipped nicely before dinner and accompanied the food very well. This Pinot is drinking exceedingly well now so if you have some on hand, grip it n' sip it! 92-93. Oct. 2013.
Quintay Winemaker's Experience Blend 2015, Do Maipo Valley
Maipo Valley, Chile$23.10
A substantial, highly extracted and concentrated red blend. Shows viscous stained tears and an inky ruby colour. The nose is lifted with violet, red and dark fruit, baking spice (cinnamon and clove), pepper, graphite, pencil shaving and vanillin. Just enough acidity to keep things fresh along with substantial tannic presence. Medium plus to full body and excellent length. Alcohol is a bit warm (14.5% abv) but may integrate with time, which is what the wine needs for overall integration. 92 points with potential for an additional 1-2 points in a couple of years. Aug. 2019.