David Brodati, DipWSET
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Reviews
La Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza Reserva 2007, Doca Rioja
Rioja, Spain$54.95
One of the best Rioja's I've tasted in a long while. Wonderfully expressive aromatics and much complexity makes this a fine sipping wine. Spot on typicity for Rioja. Dark cherry, tobacco, leather, herb, dill, olive, sandalwood, vanilla, mocha, spice, hoisin, smoke. The oak is very nicely intergrated at this point. Medium/full bodied, with medium plus acidity, refined silky tannins that still have some grip, and excellent length. A touch of heat on the lingering finish holds this a notch below the outstanding category. Drink now or hold 5-7 years. Jan. 2017.
Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Spätlese 2014, Pradikätswein
Mosel, Germany$39.95
A brilliant Spatlese here. Objectively it scores on complexity, balance, length and typicity. Subjectively, scores on being freekin delicious. It portrays notes of ripe apple, peach, apricot, marmalade, grilled pineapple, melon, candied ginger, honey and that wonderful Mosel minerality. The balance is impeccable with interplay between acidity and sweetness giving the impression of medium dry. I paired this with a butternut squash bisque finished with a dollop of maple syrup - sublime (or in this case subapricot). It's drinking lovely now, but can easily go another decade. Dec. 2019.
Anne Marie Liegeois Hedges Cuvée Marcel Dupont Les Gosses Vineyard Syrah 2012, Red Mountain, Columbia Valley
Washington, Usa$49.99
A beautiful wine with a pretty purple ruby hue. A lifted nose showing cherry fruit, spice, pepper, meat and a herbal minty character. The mouthfeel is full with concentrated fruit, ripe sticky tannin, chalky minerality and balanced acidity. This is still young and will benefit from cellaring up to 10 years and will evolve beautifully. Red Mountain AVA is warm, dry with south west facing aspects that produce excellent bordeaux varietals and Syrah as evidenced by this 100% Syrah. It's not cheap, but would give higher priced Hermitage a run for its money. Jan. 2016.
Il Grappolo Sassocheto Brunello Di Montalcino 2010
Tuscany, Italy$58.00
Garnet red in the glass doesn't belie this Brunello's age. Traditional in style. Umami driven nose of leather, tobacco, earth, dried flowers. Fruit is drying too. Some oxidation showing as may be expected. High acidity, high alcohol and drying tannin that is still grippy. Complexity and excellent length, but I wouldn't cellar too much longer. Enjoy while you can. Dec. 2018.
Brezza Cannubi Barolo 2012, Docg
Piedmont, Italy$73.00
A lovely elegant Barolo from the famed Cannubi vineyard northeast of the village. Showing its age both in colour (garnet brick) and aromas/flavour with dried rose petal, hay, prune and fig. Additional complexity with marzipan, sour cherry, tea, liquorice, cinnamon and a tarry molasses/burnt sugar note. Contemplative indeed. Juxtapositional: it's dry but has an almost sweet essence with the marzipan, burnt sugar; still tannic but smooth mouthfeel; light in colour but wonderfully intense. The length is excellent. Enjoy now. March 2025
Closson Chase Closson Chase Vineyard Chardonnay 2013, VQA Prince Edward County
Ontario, Canada$29.95
Quintessential Deborah Paskus Chard. Rich and creamy but fruit and acid are pure. Notes of apple, pear, lemon, honey, nuts, butter, wax, mineral. The mouthfeel is voluptuous. Complex, balanced and outstanding length. A Paskus swansong for sure. Dec. 2015.
Norman Hardie Chardonnay Sans Soufre 2015, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$45.00
This wine is just plain delicious. The consistent quality of Norm's output sometimes results in consumer complacency - yeah, another good Norman Hardie (yawn). But the Sans Soufre for me is a reminder of this man's talent. Complexity, balance, refinement, length. Apple, lemon, lime, quince, honey, slightly minty, iodine, minerality. Creamy malo texture, vibrant with excellent length. Well done. Soufre not needed. Nov. 2017.
Kurtz Family Boundary Row Grenache/Shiraz/Mataro 2010, Barossa Valley, South Australia
South Australia, Australia$24.75
Deep ruby with a slight purple hue for this opaque GSM. Showing nice fruit concentration with black cherry, blackberry, cassis, blueberry, black plum and prune. Quite complex with additional aromas/flavours of black pepper, nutmeg, fennel, herb/mint, cedar, vanilla and a charred/tarry note. It's full bodied with medium plus acidity and medium tannin. Complexity, balance, integrated oak and excellent length make for a 92+ score. A tad hot on the finish, but hey at 15% ABV it could be worse. Dec 2015.
Pieropan La Rocca Soave Classico 2013, Doc
Veneto, Italy$30.25
The 2013 version of Pieropan's single vineyard 'La Rocca' Soave continues it's world class legacy. Lovely aromas of apple, pear, melon, honey, almond, some oak spice and minerality. Full and viscous mouthfeel with bright lemony acidity and excellent length. Definitely one of my favourites and in my view, fairly priced at under $40 for such a rich and complex wine. Oct. 2016.
Thirty Bench Riesling Small Lot Triangle Vineyard 2013, Beamsville Bench
Ontario, Canada$30.00
I too tasted this wonderful Riesling at the Canadian Wine Scholar Course that David taught. It was amazing, so I made a trip to Thirty Bench to pick up a few bottles. Tried it again recently and came to the same conclusion: Emma Garner is crafting great Ontario Rieslings, but the Triangle Vineyard 2013 may be her best. Aromatic citrus nose with petrol, florals, and more complexity in spades. A lovely mouthfeel, outstanding length and terrific balance of acidity, fruit and RS. Not sure if there's any left at the Winery, but I'd recommend picking some up if available. June 2016.