David Brodati, DipWSET
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Reviews
Evans & Tate Metricup Road Cabernet/Merlot 2013, Margaret River, Western Australia
Western Australia, Australia$16.75
Cooler Margaret River Meritage, showing vibrant acidity. Notes of cassis, menthol, spice, pencil shaving and mocha. Merlot adds roundness. Tannins are evolving, drinking well now, Very good length. July 2017.
Mastroberardino Fiano Di Avellino 2014
Campania, Italy$17.25
Mastroberardino's Fiano is not very intense aromatically, but that's not indicative of the complexity here. Honey notes, ripe pear and tangerine, spice, salty minerality and a bitter almond finish. It has medium acidity, very good length, but is a tad too hot to score on balance (keeping my rating under 90). Very good value. May 2017.
Lapilli Beneventano Aglianico 2014, Igt
Campania, Italy$13.75
Here's an Aglianico that scores well on complexity. It is full bodied, ripe and prominently oaked but not overdone. Floral and dark fruit flavours (plum fig, black cherry), spice, teryiaki, tar, earth, coffee, herbs and a sanguine minerality. Tannins are soft and there's a seam of acidity providing freshness. A tad hot, but very good length. On sale and a great value. April 2017.
Jean Biecher & Fils Schoenenbourg Riesling 2014, Ac Alsace Grand Cru
Alsace, France$23.95
Excellent value for a Grand Cru, this Alsatian Riesling is a bit closed on the nose right now, but eventually opens to reveal apple, peach and citrus fruit. It's somewhat round with a honeyed palate, medium plus acidity and very good length. A bit unbalanced and a touch hot. Should integrate with some time in the bottle. April 2017.
Dainero 2013, Igt Toscana
Tuscany, Italy$14.75
Medium ruby with the faintest hint of garnet at the edges. Fruit is mostly in the red spectrum with raspberry and cherry, but some dark fruit as well, although I find the oak masks the fruit somewhat. Some new oak no doubt, manifested in cedar and cinnamon. There's also a vague meaty note and evergreen and herbs. Good complexity. Some elegance here with bright acidity, medium body and dusty tannin that still has some traction. Bitter dry finish with decent length. April 2018.
Fassati Pasiteo Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano 2012, Docg
Tuscany, Italy$8.15
This Vino Nobile demonstrates a nice balance between rustic Sangiovese authenticity and modern wine making style. Medium-full bodied. Good concentration of sour cherry fruit, earthiness, leather, tobacco, and oak influences. Dusty tannins. Vibrant Sangiovese acidity makes this a really nice and versatile food partner. Very good length. And of course Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano fits that price-quality ratio sweet spot between fuller, richer more expensive Brunello and lighter Chianti. Nov. 2017.
Mayu Reserva Carmenère/Syrah 2014, Elquí Valley
Chile$15.95
I'm fascinated by wines that elicit divergent opinions from the pro critics. For this interesting Carmenere/Syrah blend from the northen Elqui region of Chile, I tend to agree more with David than with Sara or Godello. I too find that Syrah leads the way with meaty, spicy, peppery characteristics. There's ripe fruit (almost into the baked spectrum), balsamic, olives, herbs and mocha. Medium plus acidity provides freshness. Tannins are present but resolved. Good balance and excellent length. Intriquing, quality wine at a bargain price. Multi-bottle purchase. March 2017.
Porconero Fiano 2015, Igp Campania
Campania, Italy$17.95
Super cool label depicting a stylized black pig (porco nero). Stylish in the bottle as well. I love the nose with florals, citrus, mineral and spice. Medium bodied with medium plus acidity and very good to excellent length. A touch warm despite the modest 11.8% ABV declared. Food friendly and good value. April 2017.
Closson Chase Churchside Pinot Noir 2015, Prince Edward County
Ontario, Canada$39.95
As self-declared arbiter when the pro critics have divergent scores, my judgement in this case sides with Godello. This Pinot from Closson's Churchside vineyard is quite delicious. A little closed just now aromatically, it will certainly bloom with time. Juicy PEC fruit that shows good typicity for PEC Pinot, with cran-cherry, red berry along with nutmeg, cinnamon and spice. And of course a mineral edge. The acidity is vibrant, tannin fairly soft. Good balance overall, and excellent length. Drink now or hold mid term 3-5 years. Pairs well with salmon, or fruit glazed pork roast. Nov. 2017.
Ara Pathway Single Estate Pinot Noir 2014, Marlborough
Marlborough, New Zealand$10.45
What a steal at the delist price of $10. Alas I was only able to procure three bottles as they were scooped up quickly by other savy consumers. Pale ruby and somewhat translucent in the glass. Red fruit with cherry, strawberry and cranberry peeking through. There's a smokey tobacco note on the finish. Medium bodied, bright acidity, balanced and very good length. I wish I was able to grab more bottles. Feb. 2018.