David Brodati, DipWSET
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Reviews
The Wolftrap White 2013, Boekenhoutskloof
Western Cape, South Africa$13.95
The wolftrap series (both reds and whites) offer consistent quality and value vintage to vintage. Expect complex aromatics (viognier) with a creamy slightly off dry palate and a savoury finish. Medium lemony acidity and decent length. January 2015.
Leaning Post Chardonnay The Fifty 2013
Ontario, Canada$22.00
Leaning Post is located in Winona at the extreme eastern boundary of the City of Hamilton next to Grimsby. Winona was once known as The Fifty, so named for the creek that flows there. This lightly oaked Chard is pleasantly aromatic featuring lime, apple, pear, white peach and a hint of tropical fruit. The mouthfeel is medium bodied with a slight viscosity and balanced lemony acidity. Excellent length. A quality cool climate chard. Jan. 2015.
Convento San Francisco 2005, Do Ribera Del Duero
Ribera Del Duero, Spain$19.95
A tale of two worlds for this Spanish Ribera del Duero. On the nose this is old school with some funk, brett, tobacco and spice box. On the palate, more modern with up front cocoa, dried fruit and a smooth almost sweetish lengthy finish. Very approachable, but tannins still have traction. If the fruit lasts, this could go another decade. Very nice. Sept. 2014.
Cusumano Syrah 2013, Igt Sicilia
Sicily, Italy$12.00
An interesting take on syrah. It exhibits some syrah typicity with dark berry fruit, plum and a spicy finish. But it has a certain Italian flair with earthy rusticity. The nose shows red berry, florals and mild oak spice. The weight is mid, sitting semi opague in the glass, yet there's pronounced alcohol heat on the lengthy finish. Excellent value and currently on sale officially making it a steal! Don't tell the authorities. Nov. 2014.
Le Volte Dell'ornellaia 2012, Igt Toscana
Tuscany, Italy$29.95
Very modern in style as would be expected from Ornellaia's entry level offering. Merlot leads the blend and that's reflected in a round softness, although structure isn't lacking with sticky tannins and medium plus acidity. Aromas of cherry, herb, anise, pencil shaving and chocolate. Good finish but a touch hot. While fermentation is in steel tank, and ageing is in neutral (used Ornelliaia) barrels, oak is still dominant. June 2015.
Lefèvre Rémondet Brut Blanc Crémant De Bourgogne
Burgundy, France$20.95
A fresh and lively cremant with notes of green/mac apple, bread, unbaked dough and wet cement. The bubbles are vibrant and the palate is slightly creamy. Dry, but with a nice balance between supporting acidity and some sweetness from the dosage. Good value. Jan. 2015.
Wits End Luna Shiraz 2012, Mclaren Vale
South Australia, Australia$18.95
An dark inky purple shiraz. Notes of dark berry and plum fruit with licorice, olive, hoisin and other savoury elements. The mouthfeel is medium to full with alcohol heat notable (15%). Soft and round, there's a sweet ripe fruit flavour counterbalanced with teriyaki and spice. Very good length. Sept. 2014.
Malivoire Gamay 2013, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$17.95
Malivoire consistently expresses very good gamay and the 2013 is no exception. The nose is floral with notes of red fruit (strawberry, cherry), baking spice (cinnamon, nutmeg) and black pepper. On the palate it's light to medium weight with more pepper, fruit and a hint of oaky vanilla. Medium acidity is just right to provide balance and tannins are on the milder side. Length is very good. Overall a very juicy, quaffable, balanced wine at a price point below most Beaujolais crus. January 2015.
Versado Malbec 2013, Lujan De Cuyo, Mendoza
Mendoza, Argentina$19.95
A bit hard to describe the essence of this higher altitude Argentine Malbec. There's good typicity with red and dark fruit, some savoury soy and hoisin, herbal quality and a hint of licorice. The oak is not insignificant with vanillin and cholcolate, but not overbearing either. It's hot and big with 14.8% ABV, which adds sweetness. But at the same time it strives for lift, vibrancy and elegance in the Sperling style, with medium plus acidity and a touch of VA. I'm not sure it all comes together, being a bit disjointed. Nonetheless it gets marks for complexity, length, balance and drinkability.
Cono Sur Bicicleta Viognier 2014
Colchagua Valley, Chile$9.95
A nod to viognier typicity with this fragrant nose. Fresh, floral, perfumed with apricot, orange and the faintest hint of tropical fruit. A creamy palate with milder to medium acidity and a slightly bitter late palate. Very good length. Try this with aromatic Thai food like a jasmine rice based lightly spiced dish - but not too spicy as the higher ABV will be exacerbated by the heat. Can't beat the value, and the consistency vintage to vintage is Swiss clockwork. Nov. 2014.