David Brodati, DipWSET
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Reviews
Ca'tullio Tenace Lo Schioppettino 2015, Doc Friuli Aquileia
Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy$16.25
Schioppettino, which means "crackling", is native to the Friuli region and this version from the Colli Orientali DOC shows characteristic aromatic intensity with violets, red berry fruit and spicy pepper. Quite fruity on the palate, with more pepper and a late palate bitterness. Reminded me a bit of Gamay. It's mid weight, has vibrant acidity, medium tannin and very good length. Schioppettino is also known as Ribolla Nera, but is unrelated to Ribolla Gialla. Makes a lovely Valentines wine. Feb. 2018.
3.5 Stars
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Albino Piona Bardolino 2016, Doc
Veneto, Italy$12.75
A delicious Bardolino. Based on the same grapes used in Valpolicella but the appellation lies to the west of Valpolicella on the eastern/Veneto shore of Lake Garda. So light in colour, almost Chiaretto (rose), but this belies it's true weight and body along with 13% ABV. Tart red berry, cherry, spice, florals, creamy/honey (malo?) and some mineral salinity. There's also a perception or RS without any sense of confection. Bright acidity renders it food friendly, tannin are mild and length is very good. Great value. April 2018.
3.5 Stars
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Melini Chianti Classico Reserva 2011
Tuscany, Italy$19.95
Here's a really good value for Chianti Classico Reserva. This 2011 is ageing but still has some kick left. The fruit is in the cherry and red berry spectrum although starting to dry out. There's added complexity with secondary and tertiary notes including a savoury herbal note, tea, chocolate, vanilla and leather. The tannins are dusty and are polymerizing into resolution. A tad thin, showing medium body and medium plus alcohol. Finish is very good to excellent. Scores on complexity, balance, typicity and finish. When on sale, it's an absolute steal. April 2019.
3.5 Stars
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Xavier Muscat De Beaumes De Venise 2017, Vin Doux Naturel, Ap (375ml)
Rhône, France$13.75
Very good muscat based VDN from the Southern Rhone's Beaumes de Venise appellation. Excellent typicity showing delicate but pronounced aromas of soapy perfume and florals, ripe apricot, canned peaches, grape, honey and ginger, along with more tropical fruit flavours on the palate. Sweet, lower acidity, a viscous mouthfeel and pure exuberant pleasure. May 2019.
3.5 Stars
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Henry Of Pelham Estate Riesling 2018, Certified Sustainable, VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Escarpment
Ontario, Canada$19.95
HoP's estate Riesling offers notions of white flowers, tart apple, lemon-lime and a hint of petrol. The mouthfeel is slightly creamy with bright acidity. There's good balance and very good length. Excellent escarpment Riesling typicity. Well done and well priced. March 2020.
3.5 Stars
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Henry Of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Baco Noir 2018, VQA Ontario
Ontario, Canada$24.95
HOP Family Reserve Baco is always good quality and value. Baco is a hybrid variety grown mostly in Canada. Concentrated dark fruit in the plum, prune, black cherry spectrum with violets, lots of spice, and a hint of minerality. Oak is prominent but fairly well integrated showing vanilla, cocoa and smoke. Acidity is medium and tannin medium minus (baco is never very tannic). The length is very good to excellent. This is a great bbq wine for burgers, ribs and any saucy fare (not steak which is a tannin tamer). Drinking well now, and doesn't need much aging. June 2020.
3.5 Stars
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Vaucher Pere Et Fils Fleurie 2018, Fleurie
Beaujolais, France$17.95
It's all about the nose. Pronounced aromas of ripe red berry and cherry fruit with florals of rose and violets, black pepper and minerality. Very elegant and fresh with tart acidity providing lift and a lip smacking "shmek" factor. Tannins are on the softer side. Medium bodied with a bit of alcohol warmth despite only 13% abv declared. Excellent length. And good typicity displaying the elegance and finesse of Fleurie. What value at only $18. March 2021.
3.5 Stars
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Radford Dale Vinum Chenin Blanc 2018, Stellenbosch
South Africa$18.95
South Africa can provide some of the best price/quality ratios available in the wine world, particularly from its signature white varietal Chenin. The Radford Dale is case in point, along with Ken Forrester's Chenin (both in the $18 range). A fairly complex nose of pear, lime and peach fruit is complemented by sage and minerality. The palate is slightly viscous (lees contact) and the colour is more gold than lemon. Of course, the acidity is vibrant as one would expect from Chenin, and the length is excellent. Jan. 2022.
3.5 Stars
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Château Pierre De Montignac 2015, Cru Bourgeois, Ap Médoc
Bordeaux, France$24.95
From a warm vintage, this Medoc Cru Bourgeois offers red fruit (currant, cherry, plum) along with cedar, cigar box and an herbal note. It's medium bodied with soft tannins, juicy acidity and very good to excellent length. At it's prime now, so enjoy on it's own or with roasted meats. January 2022.
3.5 Stars
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Channing Daughters Ramato Pinot Grigio 2020
New York, Usa$31.25
I love checking out wines that elicit a range of scores from the pro critics, and as the official arbiter of conflicting scores, I was amped to try this Orange wine. But oy vay, what a conundrum it presents. It scores on complexity with grapefruit, marmalade, poached pear, tea, black licorice, sage, honey, toasted marshmallow and more. Texturally there's some tannin and a viscosity in an off-dry frame. The finish is quite long. The acidity is modest so it's a touch flabby. Some alcohol heat reduces marks for balance. But what a fun adventure from an AVA we don't see much of in these parts.
3.5 Stars
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