David Brodati, DipWSET
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Reviews
Leaning Post Merlot 2012, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$42.00
Here's a beautiful plush Niagara Merlot from talented Winemaker Ilya Senchuk. Making the most of the excellent 2012 vintage, this Merlot shows black cherry, plum and prunes with secondary and tertiary aromas of vanilla, mocha, herbs and tobacco. Nicely balanced with supporting acidity and ripe and softening tannin, the wine is drinking very nicely now. Excellent length. Oct. 2016.
Caparzo Brunello Di Montalcino 2011, Docg
Tuscany, Italy$49.95
Showing volatile acidity that blows off with a bit of air, but I'd drink up if you have a bottle or two left. Garnet in colour. Mature nose and flavours in the dried red fruit spectrum, dried violet, savoury notes, cinnamon, soy, and cedar. Tannins are very resolved but a hint of graininess pokes through showing a bit of life yet. Acidity has kept this wine going. The length is excellent. A nice example of mature Brunello. March 2020.
Astrolabe Province Sauvignon Blanc 2015
Marlborough, New Zealand$24.95
Very nice and fairly typical NZ SB. Amped aromatics with herbaceous cut grass, green pepper, citrus and faint tropical fruit. Medium plus body and alcohol. The fruit is balanced by racy acidity. Excellent length. 13.5% ABV stays a touch hot on the late palate. Good value. Feb. 2017.
Hidden Bench Estate Riesling 2014, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$24.95
A fine organic Bench Riesling from Hidden Bench. Aromatic intensity with green apple, pear, lime and plenty of minerality. On the palate the acidity is bright, fruit is citrusy- tart and length is excellent. Well priced to boot. Nov. 2016.
Abbazia Di Novacella Müller Thurgau 2014, Doc Valle Isarco Alto Adige
Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy$15.75
Italy's most northerly wine area in the Isarco Valley of Alto Adige is able to truly express German varieties like this Muller Thurgau. Fairly intense floral aromas with apple, nutmeg, almond and salt/minerality. Bright acidity from the high altitude gives freshness. The mouthfeel is medium bodied, and the length is very good to excellent. A very reasonable price puts this squarely in bargain value territory, given the quality here. Nov. 2016.
J. & J. Eger Kékfrankos 2011, Eged Hegy Vineyard
Hungary$19.75
Modern in style, this Blaufrankisch shows red and dark fruit, brambly, with spice, pepper and obvious oak but fairly well integrated. Good acidity and ripe tannin provide structure. There a touch of alcohol heat but, again, integrated for the most part. Very good to excellent length. Good quality to price ratio. Nice example of a Kekfrankos and very approachable. August 2016.
Château Gassier Le Pas Du Moine Rosé 2015, Ap Côtes De Provence Sainte Victoire
Provence, France$21.95
A lovely, refined Provencal Rose in a matching elegantly shaped bottle. Very pale in colour, but there is substance and body here. The nose is fairly intese with peach and nectarine fruit. The palate is refreshing with good acidity and a nice bitter finish. Perhaps a bit more complexity would bump to a 90 score, but hey, I'm not necessarily drinking Provence Rose for complexity. Sept. 2015.
Losi Millennium Gran Selezione Chianti Classico 2010, Docg
Tuscany, Italy$31.25
I'm fascinated by wines that evoke disparate scores from the pro critics. I consider myself the final arbiter on the subject (at least in my own mind). The verdict in this case: Godel/Lawrason thumbs up, Szabo thumbs down. This is a rather lithe Gran Selezione despite a hefty 14% ABV (reflective of the vintage). Quite complex with notes of florals, cherry, tomato leaf, tea, balsamic, leather, some VA and chocolate. Medium plus acidity provides freshness. Tannin is ripe and polished. An excellent food wine but fine for sipping. Scores on complexity, typicity, balance and length. July 2017.
Bernard Reverdy & Fils Sancerre 2015, Ac
Loire, France$26.95
A lovely Sancerre, with dialed back aromatic intensity for a Sauv. Blanc, in the French style as opposed to say NZ. For sure there's that typical herbaceous character, with white flower and citrus fruit, but there's a sense of confident restraint. Vibrant acidity and very good length, though a touch of alcohol burn keeps my rating below 90. Jan. 2017.
Lafage Côté Sud 2014, Igp Côtes Catalanes
Languedoc, France$15.95
There's no doubt about the super value of Southern French wines, with quality improving at a much faster pace than price point. I meant to pick up this Lafage when released in March, but then the tasty Chapoutier Bila Haut got released followed by the excellent Cave de Roquebrun in the current release. So how happy was I to see my local LCBO discounting the Cote Sud to $12!. Picked up the last 4 bottles. Fruit forward cherry from the Grenache, spice and some gravitas from the Syrah. Well balanced, juicy, fine grained ripe tannin and decent length. A bit hot so score stays under 90. July 2017.