David Brodati, DipWSET
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Reviews
J. & J. Eger Kékfrankos 2011, Eged Hegy Vineyard
Hungary$19.75
Modern in style, this Blaufrankisch shows red and dark fruit, brambly, with spice, pepper and obvious oak but fairly well integrated. Good acidity and ripe tannin provide structure. There a touch of alcohol heat but, again, integrated for the most part. Very good to excellent length. Good quality to price ratio. Nice example of a Kekfrankos and very approachable. August 2016.
Château Gassier Le Pas Du Moine Rosé 2015, Ap Côtes De Provence Sainte Victoire
Provence, France$21.95
A lovely, refined Provencal Rose in a matching elegantly shaped bottle. Very pale in colour, but there is substance and body here. The nose is fairly intese with peach and nectarine fruit. The palate is refreshing with good acidity and a nice bitter finish. Perhaps a bit more complexity would bump to a 90 score, but hey, I'm not necessarily drinking Provence Rose for complexity. Sept. 2015.
Losi Millennium Gran Selezione Chianti Classico 2010, Docg
Tuscany, Italy$31.25
I'm fascinated by wines that evoke disparate scores from the pro critics. I consider myself the final arbiter on the subject (at least in my own mind). The verdict in this case: Godel/Lawrason thumbs up, Szabo thumbs down. This is a rather lithe Gran Selezione despite a hefty 14% ABV (reflective of the vintage). Quite complex with notes of florals, cherry, tomato leaf, tea, balsamic, leather, some VA and chocolate. Medium plus acidity provides freshness. Tannin is ripe and polished. An excellent food wine but fine for sipping. Scores on complexity, typicity, balance and length. July 2017.
Bernard Reverdy & Fils Sancerre 2015, Ac
Loire, France$26.95
A lovely Sancerre, with dialed back aromatic intensity for a Sauv. Blanc, in the French style as opposed to say NZ. For sure there's that typical herbaceous character, with white flower and citrus fruit, but there's a sense of confident restraint. Vibrant acidity and very good length, though a touch of alcohol burn keeps my rating below 90. Jan. 2017.
Lafage Côté Sud 2014, Igp Côtes Catalanes
Languedoc, France$15.95
There's no doubt about the super value of Southern French wines, with quality improving at a much faster pace than price point. I meant to pick up this Lafage when released in March, but then the tasty Chapoutier Bila Haut got released followed by the excellent Cave de Roquebrun in the current release. So how happy was I to see my local LCBO discounting the Cote Sud to $12!. Picked up the last 4 bottles. Fruit forward cherry from the Grenache, spice and some gravitas from the Syrah. Well balanced, juicy, fine grained ripe tannin and decent length. A bit hot so score stays under 90. July 2017.
Château Des Charmes St. David's Bench Vineyard Gamay Noir Droit 2015, VQA St. David's Bench
Ontario, Canada$15.75
CdesC's gamay based on Paul Bosc's clone certainly is a straight shooter. Pretty aromatics and rich ripe flavours of cherry, red berry, florals and spice. A sense of sweetness but there's good balancing acidity, little in tannic grip and decent overall length. This can age a bit, but really no reason to when it's so enjoyable now. April 2017.
Colomé Torrontés 2015, Calchaquí Valley, Salta
Salta, Argentina$15.95
Fits the typical Torrontes amped aromatic profile. The aromatics and flavours are quite complex with florals, citrus, herbals, honey, medicinal iodine, bitterness and salty minerality. Bright acidity keeps it all very fresh and length is excellent. There's a lot here for the bargain price. Jan. 2017.
Lavau Vacqueyras 2014
Rhône, France$25.95
Terrific value as Lavau's Vacqueyras is half the price of many CdP's, but with similar characteristics and quality. Bright medium ruby colour, cherry and dark fruit, meat, pepper, cinnamon, nutmeg, vanillin. Well balanced with medium plus tannin and medium acidity, but a touch hot (14.5% ABV declared). Very good to excellent length. Feb. 2018.
Domain Mega Spileo Red 2010
Peloponnese, Greece$29.95
This is delicious. A blend of Mavrodaphni and the rare Mavro Kalavritino from from the Achaia region of the Peloponnese (Robinson, Harding, Vouillamoz 2012) which are thick skinned varieties producing tannic wine. In this case, with seven years under it's belt this blend is drinking beautifully now. Floral, dried red fruit, spice, integrated oak (vanillin), juicy acidity and tannic structure. But it's the old world savoury, herbal, dusty, dry, lengthy nature that is compelling. It rocked with pork souvlaki and Peasant (Greek) salad and would be sublime with herb encrusted roast lamb. May 2017.
Closson Chase K.J. Watson Vineyard Pinot Gris 2016, VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara On The Lake
Ontario, Canada$22.95
From the warm dry 2016 vintage, Closson's PG from their Watson vineyard offers amped aromatics that feature peach, apricot, lime and mineral notes. Medium bodied, bright acidity and very good to excellent length. Nicely done. July 2017.