David Brodati, DipWSET
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Reviews
Charles Baker Riesling Ivan Vineyard 2015, Niagara Escarpment
Ontario, Canada$22.25
Here's a really nice Niagara Riesling from the Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation. Generous aromatic intensity followed by good purity of fruit on the palate, with apple, peach and citrus fruits leading the way. Minerality lurks and is woven into the fruit profile, while acidity and RS play at yin/yang. Excellent length seals the deal. April 2017.
Stanners Pinot Noir 2014, VQA Prince Edward County
Ontario, Canada$35.00
Stanners continues its elegant finessed style of Pinot with this 2014 County offering. Quite fruit forward with red cherry, red berry, cran fruit, herbs followed by a slight earthy, funky element with typical County minerality. Bright acidity, soft tannin and very good to excellent length. April 2017.
Tenuta Roveglia Vigne Di Catullo Lugana Riserva 2013, Doc
Lombardy, Italy$26.95
From the Lombardy side of the Lugana DOC appellation (shared with Veneto), based on the Turbiano (Trebbiano) grape. Fairly deep yellow gold in the glass. A really lovely lifted nose of white flowers, hazelnut, yellow apple, spice and leesy honey. The palate offers lees stirring creaminess, medium bodied, even a hint of tannin and bright acidity. Excellent length. This pairs exceedingly well with apple cider glazed pork. Oct. 2017.
Henry Of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Carte Blanche Estate Blanc De Blanc 2012, Traditional Method, VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Escarpment
Ontario, Canada$49.95
The 2012 vintage of this Niagara classic Chardonnay sparkler starts off reductive with some onion skin aromas that blow off with some time in the glass. Complexity abounds, mostly citrus fruit, a hint of bitter, minerality, secondary and tertiary aromas including toasty bread and leesy honey. Persistent fine bubbles, vibrant acidity all nicely integrated and balanced with a long finish. Well done. Aug. 2018.
Château Clos De Sarpe 1995, Ac Saint émilion Grand Cru
Bordeaux, France$53.95
Well this was well worth spending north of $50 for a 22 year old Saint Emilion from an good vintage. I'm impressed with the way it's hung in with some fruit (albeit dried) still showing through, but it's a bit player now with secondary and tertiaty flavours abounding and astounding. There's an old musty rancio element that mimicks cork taint, but isn't. Savoury, umami, soy, teriyaki, earth, leather, tobacco, vanilla and cocoa. Tannin is still holding on by the fingernails. Complex, evolved and long. July 2017.
Grand Vin De Glenelly Red 2010, Wo Stellenbosch
Stellenbosch, South Africa$14.75
South Africa is at the top of the price quality ratio pyramid. This is perfectly exemplified by the Glenelly blend of Shiraz and traditional Bordeaux grapes. I love the complexity and full bodied density here. Red and dark (blueberry, cassis, prune) fruit, violets, meat, spice, hoisin, tar, black tea, chocolate and tobacco. Well structured with medium plus alcohol, grippy tannin and medium plus acidity. Excellent length. A nice follow up to the 09. Sept. 2017.
Stanners Barrel Select Pinot Noir 2014, VQA Prince Edward County
Ontario, Canada$39.00
An excellent County Pinot. Lifted aromas of cran-cherry fruit and subtle well integrated oak spice like nutmeg, cinnamon, licorice and of course there is County minerality. Medium bodied, with juicy acidity, fine tannin and excellent length. July 2017.
Norman Hardie Winery & Vineyard Pinot Noir 2015, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$45.20
Lithe and elegant. Floral and fruity (cherry, red berry) drawing from the Niagara fruit, with added complexity from secondary notes of baking spice and a hint of cedar. Bright acidity, well balanced and excellent length. Aug. 2017.
Planeta Frappato Vittoria 2015
Sicily, Italy$24.95
Elegant and fresh. Planeta is an excellent producer in Sicily and this Frappato is really well done, displaying the typicity and character of this traditional Sicilian grape. The Vittorio DOC is centred around the town of Vittorio in the Ragusa province of southeast Sicilia. Medium plus aromatics of violets, red fruit, spice, salinity and iron. Similarly on the palate, there's cherry, pomegranate, red berry, spice, smoke and minerality. Medium bodied, bright acidity, some alcohol heat and excellent length. Enjoy now while fresh, fruity and vibrant. Nov. 2017.
Henry Of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Baco Noir 2014, VQA Ontario
Ontario, Canada$24.95
Henry of Pelham does Baco so well and the Family Reserve is a particularly good example. The concentration and purity of fruit from the challenging 2014 vintage is admirable. Fairly complex with dark fruit in the plum, prune, cassis range with cedar, herbs, meat and vanilla. It's medium/full bodied with bright acidity and soft tannin, quite prototypical for Baco. Length is very good to excellent. April 2017.