David Brodati, DipWSET
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Reviews
Closson Chase Vineyard Chardonnay 2014, VQA Prince Edward County
Ontario, Canada$29.95
This Chard needs time in the glass to open and for a strong reductive sluphur, onion aroma to dissipate. With time a really nice PEC Chard emerges. Notes of apple, pear, citrus, white flower, ginger, honey and minerality emerge. Vibrant acidity and medium bodied creaminess provide structure to the unfolding complexity of aromas. Excellent length seals the deal for a 90 rating. This will get better in the bottle, so if you have a few be patient and save some for three years down the road. Dec. 2016.
Norman Hardie Niagara Chardonnay 2014, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$39.20
Consistently good Chardonnay from Norm Hardie, sourced from Niagara fruit. There's that expected flinty, reductive style of Norm's but with Niagara fruit, he gets a bit more alcohol, even from a difficult year like 14. Lovely apple, pear, citrus, smokey nose with a beautiful mouthfeel that is creamy with vibrant acidity and excellent length. Nov. 2016
Torres Salmos 2012, Doca Priorat
Priorat, Spain$39.95
This Salmos is drinking beautifully now. Good purity of fruit in the darker spectrum with blueberry, blackberry and dark plum. Some balsamic notes, graphite and a smokiness as well. Mouth coating, full bodied in the Priorat idiom, with medium plus acidity providing lift and structure to the density of fruit. Tannins are smooth, ripe and slightly dusty. Harmonious and lengthy. Jan. 2019.
Terredora Di Paolo Loggia Della Serra Greco Di Tufo 2014, Docg
Campania, Italy$19.95
Terredora is a premium producer of Greco in Campania and this version doesn't disappoint. Medium plus intensity aromatics, fruit profile is predominately citrus (lemon, lime) with a hint of apricot. Distinct minerality, herbs and spice and a creamy, fuller bodied mouthfeel. Good acidity and a well balanced package ending with excellent length. Very food friendly. Great value. July 2016.
Southbrook Vineyards Small Lots Orange Wine 2015
Ontario, Canada$29.95
Full disclosure: I work part time at Southbrook so I usually don't post reviews of their wines. But I had to make an exception with the 15 Orange. A true wine geek's wine. The 15 is superb, better than the 14 in my view. Natural yeast, whole cluster and stems, foot tread, some malo, sulphite free, more infusion than extraction. Ann Sperling sees this expression of Vidal as it's truest form in Niagara and I agree. Fresh apricot and stone fruits, vibrant acidity, complex, long. Super foodie wine or sipper. A decent price point for the adventurous, geeky or natural wine enthusiast. March 2016.
Muriel Reserva 2017, Doca Rioja
Rioja, Spain$19.95
I love it when the price/quality ratio is super high as it is in this lovely Rioja Reserva. A nice balance of primary and secondary aromas with red flowers, cherry, sandalwood, chocolate, vanilla, and dried herbs. With 6 years under its belt, the fruit flavours are in transition between fresh and cooked/dried. The palate is juicy with medium plus velvety tannins and some alcohol warmth. The length is very good to excellent. Will drink well for another 5 years or so. Nov. 2023.
Alpha Estate Turtles Single Vineyard Malagouzia 2022, P.G.I. Florina
Greece$19.95
Nicely aromatic but dialed back a bit relative to a full on Gewurz for example. More of cross between Viognier, Gewurz and maybe even Sauv Blanc as I was getting a decent dose of pyrazene. Peachy, apricot, some lemony citrus, fennel herbaciousness, salty minerality, peppery spice and a pleasant bitterness. Definitely complex. But well balanced too. 13% abv provides body and the length is excellent. Medium acidity provides a degree of verve. A multitude of food pairings come to mind, but also a fun sipper on its own. May 2023.
Grand Vin De Glenelly Red 2009, Wo Stellenbosch
Stellenbosch, South Africa$19.95
Semi opaque with a ruby red centre and a hint of garnet starting to appear at the edges. A quality assemblage here. Red fruit, cassis, spice, herbal notes, cedar, tobacco, mocha, vanilla. Oak is definitely present, but judiciously so, and the high 14.5% ABV is noticeable but well integrated and not too hot. Good concentration, fine tannin and medium plus acidity provide structure and some ageing ability. Excellent length. Remarkable quality given the affordable price. Nov. 2015.
Nicolas Gueusquin Brut 1er Cru Champagne 2015, Ac, France
Champagne, France$48.95
Everything you'd want in a grower Vintage Champagne: excellent quality but without the big "House" price. It's not showy, but there's a sense of elegance. Soft mousse that persists in the glass. Aromas of yeasty brioche, apple, pear, mushroom and a nutty character. Lovely mouthfeel and vibrant acidity. Paired beautifully with sauteed scallops in a mushroom and shallot cream sauce. Dec. 2022.
Socré Barbaresco 2011, Docg
Piedmont, Italy$24.25
Socre's Barbarescos are quite lovely and this is no exception. Expressive perfumed aromas of red fruit, florals, a hint of tar. Barbarescos tend to be that much more approachable early in life compared to their more masculine Nebbiolo cousin - Barolo, and this one is drinkable now despite its relative youth. Tannin is still high, but decanting helps. Medium plus acidity, nicely balanced and excellent length. April 2016.