David Brodati, DipWSET
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Reviews
Hamilton Russell Ashbourne 2009, Wo Hemel En Aarde Valley, Walker Bay
Western Cape, South Africa$25.95
Very nice Pinotage/Meritage blend. Quite youthful still, dark ruby in colour with medium plus aromatics of florals, red and dark fruit, spice, meat, pepper. The palate is savoury and juicy with a yoghurty lactic note. Nice acidic lift balances the flavours and the tannin are ripe and approachable. Excellent length. Great value, but that's nothing new for South Africa, and the quality is to be expected from Hamilton Russell. Jan. 2018.
Pieropan Soave Classico 2016, Doc
Veneto, Italy$19.95
Clearly not as profound or sublime as Pieropan's single vineyard La Rocca, but nonetheless an excellent Soave in its own right. Great value here. Expressive lemon, honey, minerality, almond and spice. A pleasantly creamy mouthfeel with bright acidity and excellent length. April 2018.
Roger & Didier Raimbault Sancerre 2016, Ac
Loire, France$31.95
This Sancerre reveals higher intensity aromatics with florals, fruit and a characteristic herbaceous quality. The fruit is apple, pear and gooseberry. A saline minerality finishes it off. Vibrant, balanced, with higher acidity, medium bodied and very good to excellent length. Feb. 2018.
Creekside Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$15.95
This Ontario SB scores on complexity and length. The nose is reminiscent of a N.Z. savvy while the palate is more Loire. Intense aromas and flavours of white flower, lime, peach, gooseberry, sage and salty minerality. Juicy acidity really activates the saliva glands. My local LCBO had this discounted by 20% making it a steal, but alas only one bottle was left. But still a great value at full price. Jan 2022.
Tenuta Roveglia Vigne Di Catullo Lugana Riserva 2013, Doc
Lombardy, Italy$26.95
From the Lombardy side of the Lugana DOC appellation (shared with Veneto), based on the Turbiano (Trebbiano) grape. Fairly deep yellow gold in the glass. A really lovely lifted nose of white flowers, hazelnut, yellow apple, spice and leesy honey. The palate offers lees stirring creaminess, medium bodied, even a hint of tannin and bright acidity. Excellent length. This pairs exceedingly well with apple cider glazed pork. Oct. 2017.
Henry Of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Carte Blanche Estate Blanc De Blanc 2012, Traditional Method, VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Escarpment
Ontario, Canada$49.95
The 2012 vintage of this Niagara classic Chardonnay sparkler starts off reductive with some onion skin aromas that blow off with some time in the glass. Complexity abounds, mostly citrus fruit, a hint of bitter, minerality, secondary and tertiary aromas including toasty bread and leesy honey. Persistent fine bubbles, vibrant acidity all nicely integrated and balanced with a long finish. Well done. Aug. 2018.
Hidden Bench Gamay 2022, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula, Sustainable, Unfiltered
Ontario, Canada$29.95
In a word - delicious. Floral notes meld into juicy red fruit, there's red berry (strawberry, cranberry), sour cherry, along with subtle baking spice, pepper and minerality. There's a creamy mouthfeel on the medium body frame, with vibrant acidity keeping the saliva glands active (great food wine), and smooth tannin. The length is excellent. I detected a slight alcohol burn despite only 12.5% abv otherwise my score would be a point or two higher. Jan. 2025.
Bel Echo Pinot Noir 2018, Marlborough, South Island
Marlborough, New Zealand$25.25
A nice Marlborough Pinot showing red cherry, strawberry jam, baking spice, smoke, herbs and minerality. Medium/full bodied with some warmimg alcohol, the acidity balances the fruit nicely and the length is excellent. Try it with cedar planked salmon. August 2022.
Château Clos De Sarpe 1995, Ac Saint émilion Grand Cru
Bordeaux, France$53.95
Well this was well worth spending north of $50 for a 22 year old Saint Emilion from an good vintage. I'm impressed with the way it's hung in with some fruit (albeit dried) still showing through, but it's a bit player now with secondary and tertiaty flavours abounding and astounding. There's an old musty rancio element that mimicks cork taint, but isn't. Savoury, umami, soy, teriyaki, earth, leather, tobacco, vanilla and cocoa. Tannin is still holding on by the fingernails. Complex, evolved and long. July 2017.
Torres Salmos 2012, Doca Priorat
Priorat, Spain$39.95
This Salmos is drinking beautifully now. Good purity of fruit in the darker spectrum with blueberry, blackberry and dark plum. Some balsamic notes, graphite and a smokiness as well. Mouth coating, full bodied in the Priorat idiom, with medium plus acidity providing lift and structure to the density of fruit. Tannins are smooth, ripe and slightly dusty. Harmonious and lengthy. Jan. 2019.