Barry McLarnon
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Reviews (180)
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Reviews
Gunderloch Fritz's Riesling 2021
Germany$15.25
This riesling is dangerously drinkable and a reasonably good value, but David's review seems a little over the top. For one thing, it's $18, not $16... for another, I fail to detect the racy acidity of which he speaks. It's fruit-forward and peachy to be sure, but the moderate acidity puts me in mind of pinot gris more than riesling. Not that that's a bad thing... it's a fine sipper, if not archtypical riesling.
3.5 Stars
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Lawson's Dry Hills Inviniti Pinot Noir 2022, Marlborough, South Island, Sustainable
Marlborough, New Zealand$17.25
Based on the WA recos, I purchased several bottles of this pinot... imagine my surprise when I got them home and noticed that the vintage is 2023, not 2022. The plot thickens... if you look closely at the bottle photo on the LCBO product page, you'll see that the vintage on the label is 2023 - so which vintage did the WA cru actually taste? Dunno, but my initial assessment is that the 2023 is still quite rough around the edges and needs time to settle down, but it shows promise. I'll try another bottle in 6 months or so. Tasted December 2024.
3.5 Stars
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Wayne Gretzky Estate Series Cabernet Merlot 2007, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$16.95
Despite the reputation of 2007 as a great vintage in Ontario, I've had very spotty results with cellaring the 2007 reds. As 2013 draws to a close, I must report that this one is another disappointment. Although there is clearly some good underlying fruit, for me this wine is predominantly woody and astringent, with an unpleasant iodine note. This is a quality I usually associate with the use of American oak, which often shows well in the first few years, and then falls apart. Pity.
3.5 Stars
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Henry Of Pelham Reserve Cabernet/Merlot 2007, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$24.95
I've found the aging qualities of 2007 Niagara reds (and of earlier good vintages, such as 2002) to be hit and miss, but this is one of the hits. It's holding very nicely at 7 years of age, with solid fruit, a touch of spice from the well-integrated oak, hints of minerality and pencil lead, and few signs of fading. No great profundity here, but well put together and eminently drinkable.
3.5 Stars
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Demorgenzon Dmz Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Wo Stellenbosch
Stellenbosch, South Africa$16.25
Very nice indeed... clean, fresh, with oodles of varietal appeal and a touch of South African herbal flair. It puts me in mind of some of the better, more restrained NZ savvys, but without the premium price. Very good value here. Tasted May 2024.
3.5 Stars
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Stonier Pinot Noir 2010, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
Victoria, Australia$24.95
A brawny, fruit-forward style of pinot, with plenty of cooked strawberry jam and sour cherry essense, and a note of bitterness in the finish. Pleasant enough, but it lacks the delicacy and subtlety of cool-climate pinot.
3.5 Stars
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Foris Pinot Gris 2021, Rogue Valley
Oregon, Usa$22.95
This one doesn't hit the bullseye for me. I'm surprised that none of the critics mention the hefty 13.5% ABV. In my not so expert opinion, it would've been much better if they had stopped the fermentation a little sooner, leaving a bit more residual sugar to enhance the fruit and tame that bitter edge. Off-dry seems to be unfashionable, but that's what my palate prefers. The nose is fine, as far as it goes, but overall there are better options at this price point, in particular from NZ, but also even from our neck of the woods in Ontario. Tasted October 2023.
3.5 Stars
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Henry Of Pelham Reserve Baco Noir 2010, VQA Ontario
Ontario, Canada$24.95
I've been a fan of HoP's reserve baco for years, but I have to agree with Rod Phillips regarding this edition - it has become more generic and has lost much of its distinctive baco-ness. I think a big part of the problem is overuse of oak - 18 months of aging in American oak is about as subtle as a sledgehammer. It's still a good wine to be sure, but there are many such available in the $25 price bracket. Lacking those distinct baco qualities that once gave this wine its cachet, I can think of many better ways to spend my 25 bucks.
3.5 Stars
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Leyda Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Garuma Vineyard, Ledya Valley
San Antonio Valley, Chile$19.95
Obviously a well-made wine, but it leans a little too heavily to the herbaceous/grassy/canned peas side for my taste. As it happens, I tasted the 2012 edition of this wine at the Tarapaca winery earlier this year, and I liked it a lot - it had more tropical fruit character to balance that aggressive herbaceousness. Alas, the 2012 has not appeared on the LCBO shelves, and who knows if it ever will?
3.5 Stars
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Henry Of Pelham Family Tree Red 2012, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$18.95
HofP has been one of the most consistent and reliable Niagara producers over the last couple of decades, and here's another example of their strength in the lower-priced tier. I find Niagara syrahs often are too peppery for my taste, and that peppery note is quite noticeable in this blend, but it's nicely tempered by the cab/merlot component. Juicy and highly drinkable - well done!
3.5 Stars
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