Barry McLarnon
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Reviews (178)
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Reviews
Dirty Laundry Woo Woo Vines Gewürztraminer 2015, BC VQA Okanagan Valley
British Columbia, Canada$15.75
A blowsy gewurz with some decent varietal characteristics and apricoty fruit. Off-dry, despite the rather hefty 13.8% alcohol level. Could use a little more acidity for better balance - might have benefited from earlier picking, perhaps?
3.5 Stars
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Colio Reserve Chardonnay 2020, Graveyard Vineyard, VQA Niagara Lakeshore
Ontario, Canada$19.95
It's a mystery to me how this wine garnered a gold medal and other plaudits from the critics. I like a "kiss of oak" in chardonnay, but the oak in this one is far too dominant. It's a pity heavy-handed winemaking has not allowed the fruit to shine through in this warm vintage. It seems that considerable new oak was used, and I also believe it's seldom a good idea to use American oak in aging a white. It's not a sipper, and it's also difficult to find a suitable food match. Tasted November 2023.
3.5 Stars
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Königschaffhauser Steingrüble Trocken Pinot Noir 2019, Qualitätswein
Baden, Germany$18.95
I've enjoyed previous vintages of this wine, but this edition doesn't quite hit the mark for me. It's an unusually deep ruby red for a pinot, but the nose is very subdued, with some vague dried cherry and mineral notes. Smooth on the palate with little discernible tannin, but lacking acidic lift and zest, and it has quite a short finish. Certainly drinkable, but lacking in varietal typicity... even in the under $20 price bracket, there are quite a few better options.
3.5 Stars
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Quinta Do Casal Monteiro Touriga Nacional/Merlot/Syrah 2016, Estate Bottled, Doc Tejo
Tejo, Portugal$14.95
We were introduced to the wines of the Tejo region while on a wine tour with Steve Thurlow in 2019, and this is an excellent example of the value to be found there. Supple, with no discernible oak influence, exuberant fruit but not jammy or over the top, herbal/savoury notes... eminently quaffable and very food-friendly, with a modest but clean finish. For 15 bucks, what's not to like?
3.5 Stars
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Susana Balbo Signature Barrel Fermented Torrontés 2016, Uco Valley
Mendoza, Argentina$19.95
As expected, a very exotic and gloriously perfumey nose. It's not clear to me what nuances are added by the barrel fermentation, but no doubt there are some. Also as expected, some astringency on the palate. For her next experiment, I would encourage Ms Balbo to go for a bit more ripeness, and then stop the fermentation early to achieve an off-dry style. A bit of residual sugar could curb that bitter note - the result could be quite interesting!
3.5 Stars
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Malivoire Gamay 2016, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$19.95
This has long been a benchmark for Ontario gamay, and a staple at our abode. Consistently good year after year, but I like the extra bit of richness that it delivers in the warmer vintages, and this is one such. Food-friendly, savoury, and delicious.
3.5 Stars
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Wayne Gretzky Riesling 2015, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$14.95
This is one of the best rieslings on the general list, with an enticing nose of lime, limestone minerality, and a touch of petrol. On the palate, it's off-dry but not cloyingly so, with refreshing, food-friendly acidity. As always, the screwcap closure is a plus.
3.5 Stars
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Trapiche Fincas Las Palmas Gran Reserva Malbec 2014, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Mendoza, Argentina$16.95
Malbec is a seldom a go-to choice for me, but this one is a cut above the mean, with attractive fruit, well-managed oak and tannins, and food-friendly acidity. Good balance overall, and fine value at the $17 price point.
3.5 Stars
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Coyote's Run Black Paw Vineyard Pinot Noir 2015, VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$0.00
14% ABV seems over the top for any Pinot, much less one from Niagara, yet this one seems remarkably well-balanced. Very savoury, with dark cherry, wood spice, and smokey notes... best of all, we picked it up for half price in October 2017 at the winery, when it appeared that they were about to become defunct. Rumours of their demise turned out to be exaggerated. Too bad we didn't grab a case... sigh.
3.5 Stars
Peter Yealands Pinot Noir 2016, Marlborough, South Island
Marlborough, New Zealand$19.95
While supplies last, this is our de facto house pinot. Redolent with pinot essence, it offers a delectable mix of fruit and savoury. At the $20 price point, this one is hard to beat!
3.5 Stars
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