Barry McLarnon
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Reviews (176)
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Reviews
Sutherland Pinot Noir 2018, W.O. Elgin
Elgin, South Africa$19.95
This pinot nicely straddles the new and old worlds in style. Attractive nose with varietal red fruit essence, and well-balanced and fairly light on the palate, despite the hefty 14% ABV. Thanks to deft handling of oak, there is a nice spicy component, with well-managed soft tannins. It actually reminds me of some of the better Ontario pinots from a warmer than average vintage, from producers such as Hidden Bench.
3.5 Stars
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Henry Of Pelham Estate Pinot Noir 2019, Sustainable, VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Escarpment
Ontario, Canada$27.95
HofP has had a good handle on making quality pinot noir for many years now... the wines are very reliable, and sometimes inching into the top tier of Niagara pinot. This is a good example, entering its prime now and drinking beautifully: smooth, supple, with fine balance, seamlessly integrating attractive fruit (dried cherries?) and oak spice. Tasted December 2022.
3.5 Stars
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Coyote's Run Black Paw Vineyard Pinot Noir 2015, VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$0.00
14% ABV seems over the top for any Pinot, much less one from Niagara, yet this one seems remarkably well-balanced. Very savoury, with dark cherry, wood spice, and smokey notes... best of all, we picked it up for half price in October 2017 at the winery, when it appeared that they were about to become defunct. Rumours of their demise turned out to be exaggerated. Too bad we didn't grab a case... sigh.
3.5 Stars
Follas Novas Albariño 2015, Do Rias Baixas
Galicia, Spain$17.95
I'm always on the lookout for albarino, and this is a fine example. The aromatics are not overly intense, but I really like the complexity, conjuring up various herbal and fruity nuances - keeps you going back for another sniff. Fresh and clean on the palate, a great accompaniment to seafood. And sensibly capped with a screwcap closure - what's not to like?
3.5 Stars
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Malivoire Gamay 2016, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$19.95
This has long been a benchmark for Ontario gamay, and a staple at our abode. Consistently good year after year, but I like the extra bit of richness that it delivers in the warmer vintages, and this is one such. Food-friendly, savoury, and delicious.
3.5 Stars
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Wayne Gretzky Riesling 2015, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$14.95
This is one of the best rieslings on the general list, with an enticing nose of lime, limestone minerality, and a touch of petrol. On the palate, it's off-dry but not cloyingly so, with refreshing, food-friendly acidity. As always, the screwcap closure is a plus.
3.5 Stars
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Trapiche Fincas Las Palmas Gran Reserva Malbec 2014, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Mendoza, Argentina$16.95
Malbec is a seldom a go-to choice for me, but this one is a cut above the mean, with attractive fruit, well-managed oak and tannins, and food-friendly acidity. Good balance overall, and fine value at the $17 price point.
3.5 Stars
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Peter Yealands Pinot Noir 2016, Marlborough, South Island
Marlborough, New Zealand$19.95
While supplies last, this is our de facto house pinot. Redolent with pinot essence, it offers a delectable mix of fruit and savoury. At the $20 price point, this one is hard to beat!
3.5 Stars
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Rascallion 33 1/3 Rpm White Blend 2017, Wo Western Cape
Western Cape, South Africa$15.25
The blend here is 40% Chenin Blanc, 40% Roussanne, and 10% Grenache Blanc. I've enjoyed a number of similar white blends from SA, such as Jonty's Ducks (unfortunately, not currently available) and The Wolf Trap. While this one is reminiscent of those and quite drinkable, it doesn't quite measure up... I found it a bit rough around the edges, and the aromatics were not as enticing as the best of the genre.
3.5 Stars
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Yalumba Organic Viognier 2017, South Australia
South Australia, Australia$16.95
I had high hopes for this wine, but in the end, I was left with a feeling of vague disappointment. I found the aromatics curiously muted for a viognier, and on the palate, the alcoholic heat was quite off-putting. It just did not strike the right balance for me (and my wife was even less enthused). For my money, the Cono Sur viognier is a more pleasant and balanced wine, not to mention a far better value.
3.5 Stars
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