Barry McLarnon
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Reviews (179)
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Reviews
Königschaffhauser Steingrüble Trocken Pinot Noir 2019, Qualitätswein
Baden, Germany$18.95
I've enjoyed previous vintages of this wine, but this edition doesn't quite hit the mark for me. It's an unusually deep ruby red for a pinot, but the nose is very subdued, with some vague dried cherry and mineral notes. Smooth on the palate with little discernible tannin, but lacking acidic lift and zest, and it has quite a short finish. Certainly drinkable, but lacking in varietal typicity... even in the under $20 price bracket, there are quite a few better options.
3.5 Stars
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Colio Reserve Chardonnay 2020, Graveyard Vineyard, VQA Niagara Lakeshore
Ontario, Canada$19.95
It's a mystery to me how this wine garnered a gold medal and other plaudits from the critics. I like a "kiss of oak" in chardonnay, but the oak in this one is far too dominant. It's a pity heavy-handed winemaking has not allowed the fruit to shine through in this warm vintage. It seems that considerable new oak was used, and I also believe it's seldom a good idea to use American oak in aging a white. It's not a sipper, and it's also difficult to find a suitable food match. Tasted November 2023.
3.5 Stars
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Rustenberg Stellenbosch Chenin Blanc 2019, W.O. Stellenbosch
Stellenbosch, South Africa$15.95
David's review says it all for me. I often find inexpensive chenin to be on the bland side, and wish it had been blended with more aromatic varietals... not so with this one. I love the exotic qualities of this wine... it could use a touch more acidity, but overall it's very compelling, and it's quite a bargain for $15. It's not the first time I've been impressed by the affordable quality coming from this winery!
3.5 Stars
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Yalumba Organic Chardonnay 2019, Vegan, South Australia
South Australia, Australia$16.95
Just opened our last bottle... as the experts have indicated, this is a lovely clean, bright, and deliciously fruit-forward chardonnay with no noticeable oak influence. It's also, unfortunately, no longer available, but hopefully a new vintage will appear at the LCBO in the not too distant future.
3.5 Stars
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Coyote's Run Black Paw Vineyard Pinot Noir 2015, VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$0.00
14% ABV seems over the top for any Pinot, much less one from Niagara, yet this one seems remarkably well-balanced. Very savoury, with dark cherry, wood spice, and smokey notes... best of all, we picked it up for half price in October 2017 at the winery, when it appeared that they were about to become defunct. Rumours of their demise turned out to be exaggerated. Too bad we didn't grab a case... sigh.
3.5 Stars
Peter Yealands Pinot Noir 2016, Marlborough, South Island
Marlborough, New Zealand$19.95
While supplies last, this is our de facto house pinot. Redolent with pinot essence, it offers a delectable mix of fruit and savoury. At the $20 price point, this one is hard to beat!
3.5 Stars
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Susana Balbo Signature Barrel Fermented Torrontés 2016, Uco Valley
Mendoza, Argentina$19.95
As expected, a very exotic and gloriously perfumey nose. It's not clear to me what nuances are added by the barrel fermentation, but no doubt there are some. Also as expected, some astringency on the palate. For her next experiment, I would encourage Ms Balbo to go for a bit more ripeness, and then stop the fermentation early to achieve an off-dry style. A bit of residual sugar could curb that bitter note - the result could be quite interesting!
3.5 Stars
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Yalumba Organic Viognier 2017, South Australia
South Australia, Australia$16.95
I had high hopes for this wine, but in the end, I was left with a feeling of vague disappointment. I found the aromatics curiously muted for a viognier, and on the palate, the alcoholic heat was quite off-putting. It just did not strike the right balance for me (and my wife was even less enthused). For my money, the Cono Sur viognier is a more pleasant and balanced wine, not to mention a far better value.
3.5 Stars
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Trapiche Fincas Las Palmas Gran Reserva Malbec 2014, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Mendoza, Argentina$16.95
Malbec is a seldom a go-to choice for me, but this one is a cut above the mean, with attractive fruit, well-managed oak and tannins, and food-friendly acidity. Good balance overall, and fine value at the $17 price point.
3.5 Stars
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Wayne Gretzky Riesling 2015, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$14.95
This is one of the best rieslings on the general list, with an enticing nose of lime, limestone minerality, and a touch of petrol. On the palate, it's off-dry but not cloyingly so, with refreshing, food-friendly acidity. As always, the screwcap closure is a plus.
3.5 Stars
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