Barry McLarnon
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Reviews (182)
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Reviews
Colio Reserve Chardonnay 2020, Graveyard Vineyard, VQA Niagara Lakeshore
Ontario, Canada$19.95
It's a mystery to me how this wine garnered a gold medal and other plaudits from the critics. I like a "kiss of oak" in chardonnay, but the oak in this one is far too dominant. It's a pity heavy-handed winemaking has not allowed the fruit to shine through in this warm vintage. It seems that considerable new oak was used, and I also believe it's seldom a good idea to use American oak in aging a white. It's not a sipper, and it's also difficult to find a suitable food match. Tasted November 2023.
3.5 Stars
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Rustenberg Stellenbosch Chenin Blanc 2019, W.O. Stellenbosch
Stellenbosch, South Africa$15.95
David's review says it all for me. I often find inexpensive chenin to be on the bland side, and wish it had been blended with more aromatic varietals... not so with this one. I love the exotic qualities of this wine... it could use a touch more acidity, but overall it's very compelling, and it's quite a bargain for $15. It's not the first time I've been impressed by the affordable quality coming from this winery!
3.5 Stars
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Yalumba Organic Chardonnay 2019, Vegan, South Australia
South Australia, Australia$16.95
Just opened our last bottle... as the experts have indicated, this is a lovely clean, bright, and deliciously fruit-forward chardonnay with no noticeable oak influence. It's also, unfortunately, no longer available, but hopefully a new vintage will appear at the LCBO in the not too distant future.
3.5 Stars
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Sutherland Pinot Noir 2018, W.O. Elgin
Elgin, South Africa$19.95
This pinot nicely straddles the new and old worlds in style. Attractive nose with varietal red fruit essence, and well-balanced and fairly light on the palate, despite the hefty 14% ABV. Thanks to deft handling of oak, there is a nice spicy component, with well-managed soft tannins. It actually reminds me of some of the better Ontario pinots from a warmer than average vintage, from producers such as Hidden Bench.
3.5 Stars
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Henry Of Pelham Estate Pinot Noir 2019, Sustainable, VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Escarpment
Ontario, Canada$27.95
HofP has had a good handle on making quality pinot noir for many years now... the wines are very reliable, and sometimes inching into the top tier of Niagara pinot. This is a good example, entering its prime now and drinking beautifully: smooth, supple, with fine balance, seamlessly integrating attractive fruit (dried cherries?) and oak spice. Tasted December 2022.
3.5 Stars
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Wayne Gretzky Riesling 2015, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$14.95
This is one of the best rieslings on the general list, with an enticing nose of lime, limestone minerality, and a touch of petrol. On the palate, it's off-dry but not cloyingly so, with refreshing, food-friendly acidity. As always, the screwcap closure is a plus.
3.5 Stars
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Coyote's Run Black Paw Vineyard Pinot Noir 2015, VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$0.00
14% ABV seems over the top for any Pinot, much less one from Niagara, yet this one seems remarkably well-balanced. Very savoury, with dark cherry, wood spice, and smokey notes... best of all, we picked it up for half price in October 2017 at the winery, when it appeared that they were about to become defunct. Rumours of their demise turned out to be exaggerated. Too bad we didn't grab a case... sigh.
3.5 Stars
Trapiche Fincas Las Palmas Gran Reserva Malbec 2014, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Mendoza, Argentina$16.95
Malbec is a seldom a go-to choice for me, but this one is a cut above the mean, with attractive fruit, well-managed oak and tannins, and food-friendly acidity. Good balance overall, and fine value at the $17 price point.
3.5 Stars
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Susana Balbo Signature Barrel Fermented Torrontés 2016, Uco Valley
Mendoza, Argentina$19.95
As expected, a very exotic and gloriously perfumey nose. It's not clear to me what nuances are added by the barrel fermentation, but no doubt there are some. Also as expected, some astringency on the palate. For her next experiment, I would encourage Ms Balbo to go for a bit more ripeness, and then stop the fermentation early to achieve an off-dry style. A bit of residual sugar could curb that bitter note - the result could be quite interesting!
3.5 Stars
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Malivoire Gamay 2016, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$19.95
This has long been a benchmark for Ontario gamay, and a staple at our abode. Consistently good year after year, but I like the extra bit of richness that it delivers in the warmer vintages, and this is one such. Food-friendly, savoury, and delicious.
3.5 Stars
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