Barry McLarnon
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Reviews (165)
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Reviews
Quartz Reef Pinot Noir 2010, Central Otago
Central Otago, New Zealand$36.25
I had the pleasure of meeting Rudi Bauer and tasting his pinots at the winery in 2006. It's a pity we don't see them more often in Ontario. The 2010 is just entering its prime - not an ethereal cool-climate style, but rich, warm and inviting, with soft tannins and attractive oak spice to provide a counterpoint to the abundant dark fruit.
4.0 Stars
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Emiliana Winemaker's Selection Syrah 2011, Casablanca Valley
Casablanca Valley, Chile$19.95
We visited the winery in 2013, and being organic gardeners ourselves, we were very impressed with their vineyard practices and general philosophy. This wine is soft, smooth and very fruity, without being cloying. 15% alcohol seems a bit over the top, yet there is great balance here and no noticeable hotness in the finish.
4.0 Stars
(0)V
Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Pinot Noir 2011, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$30.00
This one is certainly aging gracefully, with no signs of fading. It has an enticing savory nose with intriguing herbal notes, and remarkably deep color for this cool vintage. The price to be paid for this level of extraction shows up on the palate, with mouth-drying tannins and a bitter edge in the finish. A good Pinot for the vintage, but likely could have been even better if made in a more delicate style. May 2017 update: last bottle. Still in decent shape, but starting the downhill slide, with fruit fading into beetroot and leathery notes, furry tannins. Farewell, LCJ!
4.0 Stars
(0)V
Niagara College Teaching Winery Balance Pinot Noir Trek Vineyard 2013, VQA Niagara On The Lake
Ontario, Canada$18.95
In recent times in Ontario, we've had cool vintages like '08 and '11, in which some delicate and perfumed pinots were made, but many were lean and thin. Then there were the warm vintages like '10 and '12, producing big fruity pinots, but some were overblown and lacking acidity (picked too late?). Lastly, the "in-between" vintages that hit the sweet spot, of which '09 is a prime example. It appears that '13 is another such, and this aptly-named pinot displays the balance I've come to expect: pristine fruit, complexity, and enough acidity to be refreshing and food-friendly.
4.0 Stars
Seresin Chardonnay 2012, Marlborough
Marlborough, New Zealand$19.25
Love the complexity and intensity here - a chardonnay lover's chardonnay. While I can't sniff out all of the nuances that David can, the smokey-peaty notes overlaid on the fruit are compelling. We visited the winery almost ten years ago, and can still remember the vivid positive impression both their wines and their philosophy made on us.
4.0 Stars
(0)V
Terra D'uro Finca La Rana 2012, Do Toro
Castilla y León, Spain$18.95
I had expectations of a rustic country wine, but was impressed by the elegance and balance here. It is perhaps akin to the trend to modernity in Rioja, where some winemakers are turning away from American oak, in favour of French. Without an obscure DO on the label, this is probably better value than many of its more famous brethren.
4.0 Stars
(0)V
Quinta Da Rede Grande Reserva Branco 2014, Doc Douro
Douro, Portugal$21.95
Love the complex and exotic nose, the creamy mouth feel, and the fine balance. A trip off the beaten path, well worth taking.
4.0 Stars
(0)V
Emiliana Coyam 2016, Los Robles Estate, Colchagua Valley
Colchagua Valley, Chile$29.95
Tasted March 2022. My wife and I first encountered Coyam in 2013, when we tasted the 2010 vintage at the winery. It was young and a bit rough around the edges, but we could clearly see its potential. The 2016 vintage is just entering its prime, a rich and rewarding mouthful that has oodles of nuances and is a delight to sip. I see the 2019 is now on the shelves, so that one will need a few years before it can really start to strut its stuff.
4.0 Stars
(0)V
Invivo Pinot Noir Central Otago 2019
Central Otago, New Zealand$27.95
This is a pale, limpid beauty, very fruity with strawberry and cherry in the forefront. There are also some spicy notes, but little or no oak influence and very soft tannins. Just a delight to sip.
4.0 Stars
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Brigaldara Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore 2018, Doc
Veneto, Italy$22.95
Just lovely. This fine Ripasso is just entering its prime drinking window, which will extend for some years to come. It's the whole package: a warm and inviting nose, soft tannins, richness on the palate with great mouthfeel, and a lingering finish. It was a superb match for roast lamb accompanied by roasted root veggies. I see that the next vintage (2019) is still available, and will have to hunt down a few bottles. Tasted October 2023.
4.0 Stars
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