Barry McLarnon

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Reviews
Markus Molitor Riesling Spätlese 2008, Qmp, ürziger Würzgarten
Mosel, Germany$24.95
A terrific wine, showing why Germany, and especially Mosel, still sets the standard for Riesling. Great balance and aromatics, sending you back for sip after sip, and at 7.5% alcohol, why not? In perfect shape at six years of age, and while probably not immortal, it should sail through another three or four years with no problems... but why wait?
Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Coonawarra, South Australia, 53rd Vintage
South Australia, Australia$27.95
Loved it. This wine pushes all the right buttons for me... lovely purity of fruit, great balance, nicely integrated oak. Drinking beautifully in early 2014, but seems destined to sail on gracefully for years to come. So, tell me again... why do so many winemakers still insist on inferior cork closures for their reds?
Invivo Pinot Noir Central Otago 2019
Central Otago, New Zealand$27.95
This is a pale, limpid beauty, very fruity with strawberry and cherry in the forefront. There are also some spicy notes, but little or no oak influence and very soft tannins. Just a delight to sip.
Quartz Reef Pinot Noir 2010, Central Otago
Central Otago, New Zealand$36.25
I had the pleasure of meeting Rudi Bauer and tasting his pinots at the winery in 2006. It's a pity we don't see them more often in Ontario. The 2010 is just entering its prime - not an ethereal cool-climate style, but rich, warm and inviting, with soft tannins and attractive oak spice to provide a counterpoint to the abundant dark fruit.
Malivoire Farmstead Gamay 2022, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$21.95
Malivoire once again demonstrates its prowess with this entry level gamay. This vintage is zesty and compelling, with an attractive amalgam of fruit and savoury notes. Even the colour is outstanding, and it's clean, fresh, and very food-friendly.
Emiliana Coyam 2016, Los Robles Estate, Colchagua Valley
Colchagua Valley, Chile$29.95
Tasted March 2022. My wife and I first encountered Coyam in 2013, when we tasted the 2010 vintage at the winery. It was young and a bit rough around the edges, but we could clearly see its potential. The 2016 vintage is just entering its prime, a rich and rewarding mouthful that has oodles of nuances and is a delight to sip. I see the 2019 is now on the shelves, so that one will need a few years before it can really start to strut its stuff.
Leaning Post The Fifty Chardonnay 2020, Vegan, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$24.95
I prefer my chardonnay to have a bit more of a "kiss of oak", but this one has plenty of leesy goodness to compensate for that shortcoming. Lots of interest in the nose, good body and a nice creamy mouthfeel, and refreshing acidity for food-friendliness. Think I'll pick up another bottle or two to see how it evolves. Tasted March 2023.
Emiliana Winemaker's Selection Syrah 2011, Casablanca Valley
Casablanca Valley, Chile$19.95
We visited the winery in 2013, and being organic gardeners ourselves, we were very impressed with their vineyard practices and general philosophy. This wine is soft, smooth and very fruity, without being cloying. 15% alcohol seems a bit over the top, yet there is great balance here and no noticeable hotness in the finish.
Brigaldara Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore 2018, Doc
Veneto, Italy$22.95
Just lovely. This fine Ripasso is just entering its prime drinking window, which will extend for some years to come. It's the whole package: a warm and inviting nose, soft tannins, richness on the palate with great mouthfeel, and a lingering finish. It was a superb match for roast lamb accompanied by roasted root veggies. I see that the next vintage (2019) is still available, and will have to hunt down a few bottles. Tasted October 2023.
Bel Echo Pinot Noir 2018, Marlborough, South Island
Marlborough, New Zealand$25.25
Very savoury/spicy (cinnamon?) when first poured, but the fruit emerged after a bit of aeration, led by sour cherry. This is a sophisticated and nuanced pinot, quite smooth on the palate with a slight edge from soft tannins, and a long finish with just a trace of bitterness. Last tasted September 2024, and significantly improved compared with tasting in the spring of 2023.