Barry McLarnon
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Reviews
Niagara College Teaching Winery Balance Pinot Noir Trek Vineyard 2013, VQA Niagara On The Lake
Ontario, Canada$18.95
In recent times in Ontario, we've had cool vintages like '08 and '11, in which some delicate and perfumed pinots were made, but many were lean and thin. Then there were the warm vintages like '10 and '12, producing big fruity pinots, but some were overblown and lacking acidity (picked too late?). Lastly, the "in-between" vintages that hit the sweet spot, of which '09 is a prime example. It appears that '13 is another such, and this aptly-named pinot displays the balance I've come to expect: pristine fruit, complexity, and enough acidity to be refreshing and food-friendly.
Terra D'uro Finca La Rana 2012, Do Toro
Castilla y León, Spain$18.95
I had expectations of a rustic country wine, but was impressed by the elegance and balance here. It is perhaps akin to the trend to modernity in Rioja, where some winemakers are turning away from American oak, in favour of French. Without an obscure DO on the label, this is probably better value than many of its more famous brethren.
Quinta Da Rede Grande Reserva Branco 2014, Doc Douro
Douro, Portugal$21.95
Love the complex and exotic nose, the creamy mouth feel, and the fine balance. A trip off the beaten path, well worth taking.
Emiliana Coyam 2016, Los Robles Estate, Colchagua Valley
Colchagua Valley, Chile$29.95
Tasted March 2022. My wife and I first encountered Coyam in 2013, when we tasted the 2010 vintage at the winery. It was young and a bit rough around the edges, but we could clearly see its potential. The 2016 vintage is just entering its prime, a rich and rewarding mouthful that has oodles of nuances and is a delight to sip. I see the 2019 is now on the shelves, so that one will need a few years before it can really start to strut its stuff.
Seresin Chardonnay 2012, Marlborough
Marlborough, New Zealand$19.25
Love the complexity and intensity here - a chardonnay lover's chardonnay. While I can't sniff out all of the nuances that David can, the smokey-peaty notes overlaid on the fruit are compelling. We visited the winery almost ten years ago, and can still remember the vivid positive impression both their wines and their philosophy made on us.
Quartz Reef Pinot Noir 2010, Central Otago
Central Otago, New Zealand$36.25
I had the pleasure of meeting Rudi Bauer and tasting his pinots at the winery in 2006. It's a pity we don't see them more often in Ontario. The 2010 is just entering its prime - not an ethereal cool-climate style, but rich, warm and inviting, with soft tannins and attractive oak spice to provide a counterpoint to the abundant dark fruit.
Emiliana Winemaker's Selection Syrah 2011, Casablanca Valley
Casablanca Valley, Chile$19.95
We visited the winery in 2013, and being organic gardeners ourselves, we were very impressed with their vineyard practices and general philosophy. This wine is soft, smooth and very fruity, without being cloying. 15% alcohol seems a bit over the top, yet there is great balance here and no noticeable hotness in the finish.
Invivo Pinot Noir Central Otago 2019
Central Otago, New Zealand$27.95
This is a pale, limpid beauty, very fruity with strawberry and cherry in the forefront. There are also some spicy notes, but little or no oak influence and very soft tannins. Just a delight to sip.
Dominique Piron Les Pierres Morgon 2009, Ac
Beaujolais, France$22.95
This wine is drinking beautifully in April 2013... alas, it was my last bottle. David Lawrason's description nails it: an enticing black cherry and blueberry nose, with hints of leather, licorice, and meaty notes. When first opened, it made my thoughts turn more to South Africa than Beaujolais. We kept much of the bottle (vacu-vin'ed and refrigerated) for the next day. When retasted, some of those more volatile nuances were less apparent, leaving that tasty fruit and velvety mouth feel. It really shows the potential of the Gamay grape under the right conditions.
Leaning Post The Fifty Chardonnay 2020, Vegan, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$24.95
I prefer my chardonnay to have a bit more of a "kiss of oak", but this one has plenty of leesy goodness to compensate for that shortcoming. Lots of interest in the nose, good body and a nice creamy mouthfeel, and refreshing acidity for food-friendliness. Think I'll pick up another bottle or two to see how it evolves. Tasted March 2023.