Barry McLarnon
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Reviews (176)
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Reviews
Gunderloch Fritz's Riesling 2021
Germany$15.25
This riesling is dangerously drinkable and a reasonably good value, but David's review seems a little over the top. For one thing, it's $18, not $16... for another, I fail to detect the racy acidity of which he speaks. It's fruit-forward and peachy to be sure, but the moderate acidity puts me in mind of pinot gris more than riesling. Not that that's a bad thing... it's a fine sipper, if not archtypical riesling.
3.5 Stars
(0)V
Foris Pinot Gris 2021, Rogue Valley
Oregon, Usa$22.95
This one doesn't hit the bullseye for me. I'm surprised that none of the critics mention the hefty 13.5% ABV. In my not so expert opinion, it would've been much better if they had stopped the fermentation a little sooner, leaving a bit more residual sugar to enhance the fruit and tame that bitter edge. Off-dry seems to be unfashionable, but that's what my palate prefers. The nose is fine, as far as it goes, but overall there are better options at this price point, in particular from NZ, but also even from our neck of the woods in Ontario. Tasted October 2023.
3.5 Stars
(0)V
Demorgenzon Dmz Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Wo Stellenbosch
Stellenbosch, South Africa$16.25
Very nice indeed... clean, fresh, with oodles of varietal appeal and a touch of South African herbal flair. It puts me in mind of some of the better, more restrained NZ savvys, but without the premium price. Very good value here. Tasted May 2024.
3.5 Stars
(24)V
Lawson's Dry Hills Inviniti Pinot Noir 2022, Marlborough, South Island, Sustainable
Marlborough, New Zealand$17.25
Based on the WA recos, I purchased several bottles of this pinot... imagine my surprise when I got them home and noticed that the vintage is 2023, not 2022. The plot thickens... if you look closely at the bottle photo on the LCBO product page, you'll see that the vintage on the label is 2023 - so which vintage did the WA cru actually taste? Dunno, but my initial assessment is that the 2023 is still quite rough around the edges and needs time to settle down, but it shows promise. I'll try another bottle in 6 months or so. Tasted December 2024.
3.5 Stars
(470)V+(5)O
Organized Crime Riesling 2008, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$21.20
2008 was a terrific vintage for riesling in Niagara, and here's another example. It features a near-perfect balance of refreshing acidity and limey fruit with a touch of sweetness. If you're lucky enough to have some left in your cellar (alas, I do not), be advised that it's just hitting its stride, and it should hold well for several years to come.
3.0 Stars
(0)V
Mike Weir Riesling 2008, VQA Niagara On The Lake
Ontario, Canada$18.25
This riesling was very impressive and a great bargain when released, as the reviews from 2011 attest, but I had my doubts about how it would fare over the longer haul. More than four years later, all doubts have been erased. The bottle I just opened (my last, unfortunately) still displayed attractive honey and dried fruit aromas, perhaps a bit more petrol than previously, lime/mineral notes, and crisp acidity. I tasted it alongside a very fine 2008 Reichsgraf Von Kesselstatt RK riesling, and it more than held its own. Another good example of the potential for making fine riesling in Ontario.
3.0 Stars
(0)V
Coyote's Run Red Paw Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010, VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$24.95
This wine has aged quite gracefully, and is remarkably full and brawny for a Niagara pinot noir, with plenty of fruit and wood spice - the winemaker obviously leveraged this warmer vintage for all it was worth. In a blind tasting, I'd probably peg it as coming from New Zealand - in fact, I tasted it along aside a NZ pinot (Julicher 99 Rows), and the resemblance was quite striking. The ethereal delicacy of good cool-climate pinot is lacking here, but nonetheless, this is an impressive effort.
3.0 Stars
(0)V
La Puerta Reserva Bonarda 2009, Famatina Valley
Argentina$18.95
Soft, berryish fruit with a touch of spice, very little noticeable tannin... a bit soupy in fact, reminiscent of a lot of Aussie shiraz. This would be a hit around the BBQ, no doubt, but I'd like to see a little more complexity and edginess.
3.0 Stars
(0)V
Angels Gate Pinot Gris 2011, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$14.95
Certainly an interesting take on pinot gris, and a lot of complexity here for the price. That said, I'm not really sold on the idea of oak-aging this particular varietal. For me, sipping it conjured up an absurdly fruity oaked chardonnay. I often think of pinot gris/grigio as a kind of fruit salad in a glass, and the oak doesn't seem to complement that abundant fruitiness overly well. Chardonnay, on the other hand, is less overtly fruity and has other characteristics that the oak can meld with beautifully. To each his own!
3.0 Stars
(0)G
Creekside Laura's Red 2010, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$19.95
So dark and brooding! Obviously lots of stuffing there, but I found it rather tight and tannic at this juncture. I've enjoyed this blend in past vintages, but it failed to charm me this time around. Perhaps with another year or two of bottle age it would open up and start to sing...
3.0 Stars
(0)V