Barry McLarnon
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Reviews (182)
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Reviews
Yalumba Organic Chardonnay 2019, Vegan, South Australia
South Australia, Australia$16.95
Just opened our last bottle... as the experts have indicated, this is a lovely clean, bright, and deliciously fruit-forward chardonnay with no noticeable oak influence. It's also, unfortunately, no longer available, but hopefully a new vintage will appear at the LCBO in the not too distant future.
3.5 Stars
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Rustenberg Stellenbosch Chenin Blanc 2019, W.O. Stellenbosch
Stellenbosch, South Africa$15.95
David's review says it all for me. I often find inexpensive chenin to be on the bland side, and wish it had been blended with more aromatic varietals... not so with this one. I love the exotic qualities of this wine... it could use a touch more acidity, but overall it's very compelling, and it's quite a bargain for $15. It's not the first time I've been impressed by the affordable quality coming from this winery!
3.5 Stars
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Colio Reserve Chardonnay 2020, Graveyard Vineyard, VQA Niagara Lakeshore
Ontario, Canada$19.95
It's a mystery to me how this wine garnered a gold medal and other plaudits from the critics. I like a "kiss of oak" in chardonnay, but the oak in this one is far too dominant. It's a pity heavy-handed winemaking has not allowed the fruit to shine through in this warm vintage. It seems that considerable new oak was used, and I also believe it's seldom a good idea to use American oak in aging a white. It's not a sipper, and it's also difficult to find a suitable food match. Tasted November 2023.
3.5 Stars
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Königschaffhauser Steingrüble Trocken Pinot Noir 2019, Qualitätswein
Baden, Germany$18.95
I've enjoyed previous vintages of this wine, but this edition doesn't quite hit the mark for me. It's an unusually deep ruby red for a pinot, but the nose is very subdued, with some vague dried cherry and mineral notes. Smooth on the palate with little discernible tannin, but lacking acidic lift and zest, and it has quite a short finish. Certainly drinkable, but lacking in varietal typicity... even in the under $20 price bracket, there are quite a few better options.
3.5 Stars
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Gunderloch Fritz's Riesling 2021
Germany$15.25
This riesling is dangerously drinkable and a reasonably good value, but David's review seems a little over the top. For one thing, it's $18, not $16... for another, I fail to detect the racy acidity of which he speaks. It's fruit-forward and peachy to be sure, but the moderate acidity puts me in mind of pinot gris more than riesling. Not that that's a bad thing... it's a fine sipper, if not archtypical riesling.
3.5 Stars
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Foris Pinot Gris 2021, Rogue Valley
Oregon, Usa$22.95
This one doesn't hit the bullseye for me. I'm surprised that none of the critics mention the hefty 13.5% ABV. In my not so expert opinion, it would've been much better if they had stopped the fermentation a little sooner, leaving a bit more residual sugar to enhance the fruit and tame that bitter edge. Off-dry seems to be unfashionable, but that's what my palate prefers. The nose is fine, as far as it goes, but overall there are better options at this price point, in particular from NZ, but also even from our neck of the woods in Ontario. Tasted October 2023.
3.5 Stars
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Demorgenzon Dmz Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Wo Stellenbosch
Stellenbosch, South Africa$16.25
Very nice indeed... clean, fresh, with oodles of varietal appeal and a touch of South African herbal flair. It puts me in mind of some of the better, more restrained NZ savvys, but without the premium price. Very good value here. Tasted May 2024.
3.5 Stars
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Lawson's Dry Hills Inviniti Pinot Noir 2022, Marlborough, South Island, Sustainable
Marlborough, New Zealand$17.25
Based on the WA recos, I purchased several bottles of this pinot... imagine my surprise when I got them home and noticed that the vintage is 2023, not 2022. The plot thickens... if you look closely at the bottle photo on the LCBO product page, you'll see that the vintage on the label is 2023 - so which vintage did the WA cru actually taste? Dunno, but my initial assessment is that the 2023 is still quite rough around the edges and needs time to settle down, but it shows promise. I'll try another bottle in 6 months or so. Tasted December 2024.
3.5 Stars
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Eradus Pinot Gris 2024, Single Vineyard, Awatere Valley, Marlborough, South Island
Marlborough, New Zealand$21.95
I've been impressed in recent times by the pinot noir, sauvignon blanc, and rose from this winery, and NZ is one of my go-to sources of pinot gris, so I was looking forward to trying this one. In the end, however, I was a bit disappointed. The aromatics are fine as far as they go, but I found it to be lacking on the palate... to sum it up in a word, austere. I like my gris on the lusher side, and if it has some tropical notes, so much the better. This one missed the mark for me. Tasted February 2026.
3.5 Stars
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Organized Crime Riesling 2008, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$21.20
2008 was a terrific vintage for riesling in Niagara, and here's another example. It features a near-perfect balance of refreshing acidity and limey fruit with a touch of sweetness. If you're lucky enough to have some left in your cellar (alas, I do not), be advised that it's just hitting its stride, and it should hold well for several years to come.
3.0 Stars
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