Barry McLarnon
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Reviews
Anselmann Edesheimer Ordensgut Weissburgunder Kabinett Trocken 2012, Pradikätswein
Pfalz, Germany$13.95
I'm with David on this one... a compelling pinot gris-like nose with added floral notes, very clean, fresh and lemon-zesty on the palate. Just the thing for spring sipping, food-friendly, and at 11.5% alcohol, very light on its feet - what's not to like?
Mayschoss 140 Jahre Jubiläumswein Trocken Pinot Noir 2013, Qualitätswein, Ahr
Germany$21.95
Discovered this one hiding in the cellar, purchased exactly two years ago today. The additional aging time has no doubt been beneficial - this is a very impressive wine, with great balance and fruit, coupled with enticing savoury notes. It is perhaps the best pinot I've encountered from Germany, and puts me in mind of Central Otago at its best. Alas, only the one lonely bottle in the cellar, but I'll be on the watch for pinots from the Ahr Valley in the future.
Flat Rock Cellars Pinot Noir 2013, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$22.95
This one really captures the essence of "feminine" pinot noir - an excellent value, especially at the recent discounted price of $17.95. Ed Madronich is clearly making great strides in his aim of making world-class pinot at affordable prices.
Niepoort Dão Rótulo Red 2013, Doc Dão
Dão, Portugal$15.25
This wine certainly bears little resemblance to the inexpensive Daos I was drinking back in the 70s and 80s (Terras Altas comes to mind). This one is all about freshness, and instead of oak, comes with a bracing dollop of minerality. As intended, very food-friendly, even with lighter fare such as roast chicken.
Mojo Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Coonawarra
South Australia, Australia$17.95
Love the restraint and elegance here - the deep colour has you expecting an Aussie fruit bomb, but that's not at all the case. I'm guessing that the iconic Wynn's Coonawarra Cab Sauv has a bit more richness and complexity, but it's hard to say for sure without a side-by-side comparison. Nice wine at a nice price.
Avondale Jonty's Ducks Pekin White 2015, Wo Paarl
Paarl, South Africa$16.95
I'm fully in agreement with the gurus on this one. I like chenin blanc, especially for its mouth feel, but sometimes find it a bit shy on the aromatic side. This blend amps up the aromatics, and has beguiling complexity and excellent purity of fruit. Fine value.
Tahbilk Viognier 2016, Nagambie Lakes, Goulburn Valley
Victoria, Australia$18.95
A fruit-forward viognier with an attractive nose of apricot and spice. Good mouth feel with just enough acidity to keep it refreshing and food-friendly, and it finishes with a touch of minerality. Nicely done.
Albino Piona Bardolino 2016, Doc
Veneto, Italy$12.75
The hefty bottle belies the lightness and freshness of the wine within. This is a beguiling Bardo with enticing floral and herbal notes, along with food-friendly acidity. Spring in a glass.
Stoneleigh Pinot Noir Marlborough 2018
New Zealand$19.95
This is a compelling pinot that punches well above its $20 price point - it has luscious cherry fruit, a touch of spice, and a lovely smoky note. It's in its prime right now, but should be just fine for a couple more years. Best of all, it's still available (though I haven't verified that it's the 2018 vintage currently on offer), so although I already stocked up a few months ago, I'll be heading back for more soon.
Mission Hill Reserve Chardonnay 2018, Okanagan Valley
British Columbia, Canada$24.95
A fresh and clean chardonnay with pleasant citrus-y fruitiness and more than a dash of oak spice. Ultimately, however, I found it a bit underwhelming, lacking sufficient body and mouth feel to balance those other components. At the $25 price point, there are better values available, from South Africa and Ontario, among other regions.