Barry McLarnon
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Reviews (180)
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Reviews
Domaine Les Grands Bois Cuvée Les Trois Soeurs Côtes Du Rhône 2010, Ac
Rhône, France$16.95
I haven't had many bum steers from Mr. Szabo, but this wine struck a very strong discordant note with me. The name "Grands Bois" seems appropriate, as the wine is predominantly woody, astringent and redolent of iodine. Sure, there is some dark fruit in there, but the woody notes predominate. This heavy-handed wine may have "tremendous appeal" as JS says, but it sure doesn't appeal to me.
3.5 Stars
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Seresin Leah Pinot Noir 2009, Marlborough, South Island
Marlborough, New Zealand$39.95
I first encountered 'Leah' when I tasted the 2004 vintage at the winery in 2006. It was a standout then, and it remains a favorite of mine today. The 2009 is drinking beautifully (alas, this was my last bottle), with gorgeous fruit and a compelling smoky/spicy character. A slightly idiosyncratic pinot, but in the best possible way.
3.5 Stars
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Wayne Gretzky Riesling 2015, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$14.95
This is one of the best rieslings on the general list, with an enticing nose of lime, limestone minerality, and a touch of petrol. On the palate, it's off-dry but not cloyingly so, with refreshing, food-friendly acidity. As always, the screwcap closure is a plus.
3.5 Stars
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Follas Novas Albariño 2015, Do Rias Baixas
Galicia, Spain$17.95
I'm always on the lookout for albarino, and this is a fine example. The aromatics are not overly intense, but I really like the complexity, conjuring up various herbal and fruity nuances - keeps you going back for another sniff. Fresh and clean on the palate, a great accompaniment to seafood. And sensibly capped with a screwcap closure - what's not to like?
3.5 Stars
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Trapiche Fincas Las Palmas Gran Reserva Malbec 2014, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Mendoza, Argentina$16.95
Malbec is a seldom a go-to choice for me, but this one is a cut above the mean, with attractive fruit, well-managed oak and tannins, and food-friendly acidity. Good balance overall, and fine value at the $17 price point.
3.5 Stars
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Coyote's Run Black Paw Vineyard Pinot Noir 2015, VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$0.00
14% ABV seems over the top for any Pinot, much less one from Niagara, yet this one seems remarkably well-balanced. Very savoury, with dark cherry, wood spice, and smokey notes... best of all, we picked it up for half price in October 2017 at the winery, when it appeared that they were about to become defunct. Rumours of their demise turned out to be exaggerated. Too bad we didn't grab a case... sigh.
3.5 Stars
Yalumba Organic Viognier 2017, South Australia
South Australia, Australia$16.95
I had high hopes for this wine, but in the end, I was left with a feeling of vague disappointment. I found the aromatics curiously muted for a viognier, and on the palate, the alcoholic heat was quite off-putting. It just did not strike the right balance for me (and my wife was even less enthused). For my money, the Cono Sur viognier is a more pleasant and balanced wine, not to mention a far better value.
3.5 Stars
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Rascallion 33 1/3 Rpm White Blend 2017, Wo Western Cape
Western Cape, South Africa$15.25
The blend here is 40% Chenin Blanc, 40% Roussanne, and 10% Grenache Blanc. I've enjoyed a number of similar white blends from SA, such as Jonty's Ducks (unfortunately, not currently available) and The Wolf Trap. While this one is reminiscent of those and quite drinkable, it doesn't quite measure up... I found it a bit rough around the edges, and the aromatics were not as enticing as the best of the genre.
3.5 Stars
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Susana Balbo Signature Barrel Fermented Torrontés 2016, Uco Valley
Mendoza, Argentina$19.95
As expected, a very exotic and gloriously perfumey nose. It's not clear to me what nuances are added by the barrel fermentation, but no doubt there are some. Also as expected, some astringency on the palate. For her next experiment, I would encourage Ms Balbo to go for a bit more ripeness, and then stop the fermentation early to achieve an off-dry style. A bit of residual sugar could curb that bitter note - the result could be quite interesting!
3.5 Stars
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Peter Yealands Pinot Noir 2016, Marlborough, South Island
Marlborough, New Zealand$19.95
While supplies last, this is our de facto house pinot. Redolent with pinot essence, it offers a delectable mix of fruit and savoury. At the $20 price point, this one is hard to beat!
3.5 Stars
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