Barry McLarnon

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Reviews
Loan Wines Special Reserve Semillon 2004, Unoaked, Barossa Valley, South Australia
South Australia, Australia$15.95
The range of descriptors used by the critics gives you an idea of the complexity of this wine. And all that with no oak! For me, new-mown hay, persimmon, and a touch of honey sum it up nicely. If you've ever had a late-harvest semillon "sticky", you'll have an idea of what to expect from the nose, but it's a bit of a shock to the palette when the wine arrives bone-dry. Definitely not for casual wine drinkers, but adventurous wine aficionados owe it to themselves to give it a go.
Wayne Gretzky Estate Series Cabernet Merlot 2007, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$16.95
Despite the reputation of 2007 as a great vintage in Ontario, I've had very spotty results with cellaring the 2007 reds. As 2013 draws to a close, I must report that this one is another disappointment. Although there is clearly some good underlying fruit, for me this wine is predominantly woody and astringent, with an unpleasant iodine note. This is a quality I usually associate with the use of American oak, which often shows well in the first few years, and then falls apart. Pity.
Jardin Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2015, Wo Stellenbosch
Stellenbosch, South Africa$21.95
This ticks all the right boxes for chardonnay: creamy, luscious citrusy fruit, a dash of butterscotch, a touch of toasty oak, and finishing with a dollop of Cape minerality. Nicely done.
Parker Coonawarra Estate Chardonnay 2015, South Australia
South Australia, Australia$19.95
If your concept of Aussie chardonnay was based upon Lindeman's Bin 65 of ten years ago or more, this would be quite the eye-opener. Fresh, clean, very food-friendly, with pear-ish fruit that is reminiscent of pinot gris, and virtually no detectable oak influence. Representing the new wave of chardonnay down under, and that's a good thing.
Flat Rock Chardonnay 2015, VQA Twenty Mile Bench
Ontario, Canada$19.95
Can't add much to the descriptions provided by the pros, except to say that this is yet another example of how world-class chardonnay is being produced here in Ontario, and being marketed at a very reasonable and competitive price.
A To Z Wineworks Pinot Noir 2014, Oregon
Oregon, Usa$24.95
The back label announces "the essence of Oregon", and this description doesn't seem overblown when you taste the wine. This pinot strikes a nice balance between cool and warm climate characteristics, with attractive fruit, fairly deep colour, good varietal typicity, and minimal oak influence. Food-friendly, smooth, and very pleasant to sip - what's not to like?
Hubert Brochard Les Carisannes Pinot Noir 2014, Igp Vins De Pays Du Val De Loire
Loire, France$14.25
Most of my red wine drinking acquaintances would turn their noses up at this thin stuff and go back to their shirazes and malbecs. Their loss. I like the delicacy, the purity of fruit, and the subtle floral hints. Sure, one could wish for a bit more flesh on the bones, but at this price point, you can't have everything.
Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2015, Swartland
Swartland, South Africa$12.95
Meaty, beaty, big and bouncy... not much subtlety or finesse here, but pretty hard to beat for the price, especially when it was on sale a few months back.
St Hubertus Riesling 2014, BC VQA Okanagan Valley
British Columbia, Canada$13.75
Not unlike many of its Ontario brethren, laden with limey acidity and minerality, but there's a savoury note that sets this BC riesling apart. Not sure if it's sagebrush, as JS suggests, but whatever it is, I like it.
Lawson's Dry Hills Inviniti Pinot Noir 2022, Marlborough, South Island, Sustainable
Marlborough, New Zealand$17.25
Based on the WA recos, I purchased several bottles of this pinot... imagine my surprise when I got them home and noticed that the vintage is 2023, not 2022. The plot thickens... if you look closely at the bottle photo on the LCBO product page, you'll see that the vintage on the label is 2023 - so which vintage did the WA cru actually taste? Dunno, but my initial assessment is that the 2023 is still quite rough around the edges and needs time to settle down, but it shows promise. I'll try another bottle in 6 months or so. Tasted December 2024.