Barry McLarnon
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Reviews (165)
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Reviews
Redstone Riesling Limestone Vineyard South 2012, Twenty Mile Bench
Ontario, Canada$19.20
I find John Szabo's lukewarm review rather surprising, as I consider this to be one of the better Niagara rieslings I've tasted this year. The winemaker showed a deft hand in retaining delicacy (9.5% alcohol, and just a touch of petrol) and nuance in this warm vintage. I love the limey minerality and bracing acidity, nicely balanced by the residual sugar, and the long zesty finish.
3.5 Stars
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Henry Of Pelham Family Tree Red 2012, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$18.95
HofP has been one of the most consistent and reliable Niagara producers over the last couple of decades, and here's another example of their strength in the lower-priced tier. I find Niagara syrahs often are too peppery for my taste, and that peppery note is quite noticeable in this blend, but it's nicely tempered by the cab/merlot component. Juicy and highly drinkable - well done!
3.5 Stars
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Lailey Vineyard Syrah 2012, VQA Niagara River
Ontario, Canada$27.20
Sadly, this was the last bottle of Lailey wine in our cellar, but it's a fitting finale to help recall the glory years when Derek Barnett was at the winemaking helm and at the top of his game. Just entering its prime with plenty of life still ahead, the wine is brimming with attractive dark fruit and spice, soft tannins, a lengthy finish, and excellent complexity overall.
3.5 Stars
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Decero Remolinos Vineyard Malbec 2011, Agrelo, Central Region
Mendoza, Argentina$22.95
I visited the winery in 2011 and was very impressed with the impeccable vineyard management and general attention to detail. It shows in this tasty malbec - I love the purity of fruit, complemented by oak spice and soft tannins, and the long and clean finish. It's typical of their approach to winemaking that they have eschewed the short-term attractions of American oak and have instead gone with 100% French. Well done!
3.5 Stars
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Henry Of Pelham Estate Chardonnay 2013, VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$19.95
HoP has been a reliable and consistent producer for many years, but for me, this chardonnay doesn't quite hit the mark. There is abundant and attractive fruit, but the amount of oak present shifts the wine out of balance in my view, and makes it hard to match with food... smoked fish, perhaps?
July 2016 update: a second bottle was smoother, richer, and far less woody, so I have upped my rating. I think the excessive woodiness I found previously was due to the bottle being somewhat corked. Now my only gripe is that HoP didn't use screwcap closure for this wine!
3.5 Stars
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Volcanes De Chile Tectonia Pinot Noir 2012, Bío Bío Valley
Chile$17.95
An unusually rich, spohisticated and savoury pinot at this price point. I'm no pro, but in a blind tasting I would likely peg this one as being from the South Island of New Zealand. Hope we see more from this up-and-coming region of Chile at the LCBO!
3.5 Stars
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Klumpp Riesling 2013, Qualitätswein
Baden, Germany$19.95
I generally prefer riesling with a bit more residual sweetness (and definitely with lower alcohol), but this one won me over with its attractive orchard fruit and clean finish. It struck me as being more reminiscent of pinot gris than riesling, but with an extra dose of acidity to ensure food-friendliness.
3.5 Stars
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Malivoire Musqué Spritz 2014, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$19.95
Delightful! I'm a fan of moscato for warm weather sipping, but they can get a bit cloying at times. This home-grown competitor goes them one better, with a little less sweetness than most moscatos, and a little more body and complexity - it being chardonnay, after all. Once again, Malivoire struts its stuff as one of the premium producers in Niagara.
3.5 Stars
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Malivoire Gamay 2014
Ontario, Canada$19.95
Malivoire gamay is my unofficial house red. There is some vintage variation, probably indicating minimal manipulation, but it is always highly drinkable. My impression is that this vintage has a tad less body and richness than the previous two vintages, but a bit more gamay typicity. In any case, it's refreshing, squeaky clean and has outstanding purity of fruit, as I've come to expect from Malivoire.
3.5 Stars
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Gray Monk Pinot Blanc 2013, BC VQA Okanagan Valley
British Columbia, Canada$19.95
To me, this particular example of pinot blanc is indistinguishable from pinot gris, but that's not a negative at all. It has all the luscious fruit salad and flowery notes that I look for in a gris, along with refreshing acidity and a touch of pithy bitterness in the finish. The screwcap closure to preserve freshness and purity is also a plus in my book.
3.5 Stars
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