Barry McLarnon
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Reviews (172)
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Reviews
Bonfire Hill Extreme Vineyards White 2018, Wo Swartland, South Africa
Western Cape, South Africa$17.95
I'm fully onboard with the critics on this one... "intriguing", "appealing", and "bloody delicious" sum it up nicely. South Africa excels at this kind of chenin blanc + value added blend... my personal favorite is Jonty's Ducks, but that hasn't shown up at the LCBO for a couple of years now. This is a worthy substitute... not a summer patio sipper, perhaps, but this wine has the heft and versatility to accompany many a wide variety of edibles.
3.5 Stars
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Henry Of Pelham Estate Pinot Noir 2019, Sustainable, VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Escarpment
Ontario, Canada$27.95
HofP has had a good handle on making quality pinot noir for many years now... the wines are very reliable, and sometimes inching into the top tier of Niagara pinot. This is a good example, entering its prime now and drinking beautifully: smooth, supple, with fine balance, seamlessly integrating attractive fruit (dried cherries?) and oak spice. Tasted December 2022.
3.5 Stars
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Sutherland Pinot Noir 2018, W.O. Elgin
Elgin, South Africa$19.95
This pinot nicely straddles the new and old worlds in style. Attractive nose with varietal red fruit essence, and well-balanced and fairly light on the palate, despite the hefty 14% ABV. Thanks to deft handling of oak, there is a nice spicy component, with well-managed soft tannins. It actually reminds me of some of the better Ontario pinots from a warmer than average vintage, from producers such as Hidden Bench.
3.5 Stars
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Yalumba Organic Chardonnay 2019, Vegan, South Australia
South Australia, Australia$16.95
Just opened our last bottle... as the experts have indicated, this is a lovely clean, bright, and deliciously fruit-forward chardonnay with no noticeable oak influence. It's also, unfortunately, no longer available, but hopefully a new vintage will appear at the LCBO in the not too distant future.
3.5 Stars
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Stoneleigh Pinot Noir Marlborough 2020
New Zealand$21.95
I agree with Steve that this vintage does not measure up to the very excellent 2018 (or the unreviewed 2019, for that matter). There is plenty of extract here, but it all doesn't seem to come together and strike the right balance. There is an edgy volatile note that I find a bit off-putting, along with a fair bit of tannin and some alcoholic heat. Quite drinkable, but not a compelling vintage for this reliable pinot.
3.5 Stars
(1000+)G
Rustenberg Stellenbosch Chenin Blanc 2019, W.O. Stellenbosch
Stellenbosch, South Africa$15.95
David's review says it all for me. I often find inexpensive chenin to be on the bland side, and wish it had been blended with more aromatic varietals... not so with this one. I love the exotic qualities of this wine... it could use a touch more acidity, but overall it's very compelling, and it's quite a bargain for $15. It's not the first time I've been impressed by the affordable quality coming from this winery!
3.5 Stars
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Colio Reserve Chardonnay 2020, Graveyard Vineyard, VQA Niagara Lakeshore
Ontario, Canada$19.95
It's a mystery to me how this wine garnered a gold medal and other plaudits from the critics. I like a "kiss of oak" in chardonnay, but the oak in this one is far too dominant. It's a pity heavy-handed winemaking has not allowed the fruit to shine through in this warm vintage. It seems that considerable new oak was used, and I also believe it's seldom a good idea to use American oak in aging a white. It's not a sipper, and it's also difficult to find a suitable food match. Tasted November 2023.
3.5 Stars
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Königschaffhauser Steingrüble Trocken Pinot Noir 2019, Qualitätswein
Baden, Germany$18.95
I've enjoyed previous vintages of this wine, but this edition doesn't quite hit the mark for me. It's an unusually deep ruby red for a pinot, but the nose is very subdued, with some vague dried cherry and mineral notes. Smooth on the palate with little discernible tannin, but lacking acidic lift and zest, and it has quite a short finish. Certainly drinkable, but lacking in varietal typicity... even in the under $20 price bracket, there are quite a few better options.
3.5 Stars
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Gunderloch Fritz's Riesling 2021
Germany$15.25
This riesling is dangerously drinkable and a reasonably good value, but David's review seems a little over the top. For one thing, it's $18, not $16... for another, I fail to detect the racy acidity of which he speaks. It's fruit-forward and peachy to be sure, but the moderate acidity puts me in mind of pinot gris more than riesling. Not that that's a bad thing... it's a fine sipper, if not archtypical riesling.
3.5 Stars
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Foris Pinot Gris 2021, Rogue Valley
Oregon, Usa$22.95
This one doesn't hit the bullseye for me. I'm surprised that none of the critics mention the hefty 13.5% ABV. In my not so expert opinion, it would've been much better if they had stopped the fermentation a little sooner, leaving a bit more residual sugar to enhance the fruit and tame that bitter edge. Off-dry seems to be unfashionable, but that's what my palate prefers. The nose is fine, as far as it goes, but overall there are better options at this price point, in particular from NZ, but also even from our neck of the woods in Ontario. Tasted October 2023.
3.5 Stars
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