Barry McLarnon
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Reviews (165)
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Reviews
Königschaffhauser Steingrüble Trocken Pinot Noir 2019, Qualitätswein
Baden, Germany$18.95
I've enjoyed previous vintages of this wine, but this edition doesn't quite hit the mark for me. It's an unusually deep ruby red for a pinot, but the nose is very subdued, with some vague dried cherry and mineral notes. Smooth on the palate with little discernible tannin, but lacking acidic lift and zest, and it has quite a short finish. Certainly drinkable, but lacking in varietal typicity... even in the under $20 price bracket, there are quite a few better options.
3.5 Stars
(62)V
Gunderloch Fritz's Riesling 2021
Germany$15.25
This riesling is dangerously drinkable and a reasonably good value, but David's review seems a little over the top. For one thing, it's $18, not $16... for another, I fail to detect the racy acidity of which he speaks. It's fruit-forward and peachy to be sure, but the moderate acidity puts me in mind of pinot gris more than riesling. Not that that's a bad thing... it's a fine sipper, if not archtypical riesling.
3.5 Stars
(0)V
Foris Pinot Gris 2021, Rogue Valley
Oregon, Usa$22.95
This one doesn't hit the bullseye for me. I'm surprised that none of the critics mention the hefty 13.5% ABV. In my not so expert opinion, it would've been much better if they had stopped the fermentation a little sooner, leaving a bit more residual sugar to enhance the fruit and tame that bitter edge. Off-dry seems to be unfashionable, but that's what my palate prefers. The nose is fine, as far as it goes, but overall there are better options at this price point, in particular from NZ, but also even from our neck of the woods in Ontario. Tasted October 2023.
3.5 Stars
(0)V
Organized Crime Riesling 2008, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$21.20
2008 was a terrific vintage for riesling in Niagara, and here's another example. It features a near-perfect balance of refreshing acidity and limey fruit with a touch of sweetness. If you're lucky enough to have some left in your cellar (alas, I do not), be advised that it's just hitting its stride, and it should hold well for several years to come.
3.0 Stars
(0)V
Mike Weir Riesling 2008, VQA Niagara On The Lake
Ontario, Canada$18.25
This riesling was very impressive and a great bargain when released, as the reviews from 2011 attest, but I had my doubts about how it would fare over the longer haul. More than four years later, all doubts have been erased. The bottle I just opened (my last, unfortunately) still displayed attractive honey and dried fruit aromas, perhaps a bit more petrol than previously, lime/mineral notes, and crisp acidity. I tasted it alongside a very fine 2008 Reichsgraf Von Kesselstatt RK riesling, and it more than held its own. Another good example of the potential for making fine riesling in Ontario.
3.0 Stars
(0)V
Henry Of Pelham Reserve Baco Noir 2010, VQA Ontario
Ontario, Canada$24.95
I've been a fan of HoP's reserve baco for years, but I have to agree with Rod Phillips regarding this edition - it has become more generic and has lost much of its distinctive baco-ness. I think a big part of the problem is overuse of oak - 18 months of aging in American oak is about as subtle as a sledgehammer. It's still a good wine to be sure, but there are many such available in the $25 price bracket. Lacking those distinct baco qualities that once gave this wine its cachet, I can think of many better ways to spend my 25 bucks.
3.0 Stars
(0)V
Coyote's Run Red Paw Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010, VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$24.95
This wine has aged quite gracefully, and is remarkably full and brawny for a Niagara pinot noir, with plenty of fruit and wood spice - the winemaker obviously leveraged this warmer vintage for all it was worth. In a blind tasting, I'd probably peg it as coming from New Zealand - in fact, I tasted it along aside a NZ pinot (Julicher 99 Rows), and the resemblance was quite striking. The ethereal delicacy of good cool-climate pinot is lacking here, but nonetheless, this is an impressive effort.
3.0 Stars
(0)V
La Puerta Reserva Bonarda 2009, Famatina Valley
Argentina$18.95
Soft, berryish fruit with a touch of spice, very little noticeable tannin... a bit soupy in fact, reminiscent of a lot of Aussie shiraz. This would be a hit around the BBQ, no doubt, but I'd like to see a little more complexity and edginess.
3.0 Stars
(0)V
Angels Gate Pinot Gris 2011, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$14.95
Certainly an interesting take on pinot gris, and a lot of complexity here for the price. That said, I'm not really sold on the idea of oak-aging this particular varietal. For me, sipping it conjured up an absurdly fruity oaked chardonnay. I often think of pinot gris/grigio as a kind of fruit salad in a glass, and the oak doesn't seem to complement that abundant fruitiness overly well. Chardonnay, on the other hand, is less overtly fruity and has other characteristics that the oak can meld with beautifully. To each his own!
3.0 Stars
(0)G
Creekside Laura's Red 2010, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$19.95
So dark and brooding! Obviously lots of stuffing there, but I found it rather tight and tannic at this juncture. I've enjoyed this blend in past vintages, but it failed to charm me this time around. Perhaps with another year or two of bottle age it would open up and start to sing...
3.0 Stars
(0)V