Barry McLarnon
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Reviews (176)
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Reviews
Domaine Les Grands Bois Cuvée Les Trois Soeurs Côtes Du Rhône 2010, Ac
Rhône, France$16.95
I haven't had many bum steers from Mr. Szabo, but this wine struck a very strong discordant note with me. The name "Grands Bois" seems appropriate, as the wine is predominantly woody, astringent and redolent of iodine. Sure, there is some dark fruit in there, but the woody notes predominate. This heavy-handed wine may have "tremendous appeal" as JS says, but it sure doesn't appeal to me.
3.5 Stars
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Domaine Du Margalleau Vouvray Sec 2022, Sustainable, Ac
Loire, France$20.95
South Africa is my go-to source for chenin blanc, but this one turned my head in an entirely different direction. A shy yet intriguing nose, but this chenin really delivers on the palate. Lovely fruit here, conveyed effortlessly with a silky smooth and creamy mouth feel, and with a clean and lingering finish... just a delight to sip. Tasted February 2024.
3.5 Stars
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Reva Dolcetto D'alba 2022, D.O.C.
Piedmont, Italy$25.95
Lovely - I haven't crossed paths with Dolcetto much in recent years, but this one is a delight to sip, and also very food-friendly. I intend to track down a few more bottles before they vanish from the shelves at local LCBO emporia. Tasted November 2023.
3.5 Stars
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Ruppertsberger Imperial Pinot Noir Trocken 2021, Sustainable, Pfalz
Pfalz, Germany$20.95
I really wanted to like this pinot, but it failed to impress. It started well enough, with a low key but inviting fruity nose accented by oak spice, but it slid downhill from there... I found it quite tight and a little rough on the palate, and the finish was relatively short, with a bitter edge. Even at this fairly modest price point, there are quite a few better choices.
3.5 Stars
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Seresin Leah Pinot Noir 2009, Marlborough, South Island
Marlborough, New Zealand$39.95
I first encountered 'Leah' when I tasted the 2004 vintage at the winery in 2006. It was a standout then, and it remains a favorite of mine today. The 2009 is drinking beautifully (alas, this was my last bottle), with gorgeous fruit and a compelling smoky/spicy character. A slightly idiosyncratic pinot, but in the best possible way.
3.5 Stars
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Flat Rock Cellars Pinot Noir 2013, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$22.95
This one really captures the essence of "feminine" pinot noir - an excellent value, especially at the recent discounted price of $17.95. Ed Madronich is clearly making great strides in his aim of making world-class pinot at affordable prices.
3.5 Stars
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Tomich Woodside Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021, Adelaide Hills, South Australia
South Australia, Australia$20.80
I'm fully onboard with David on this one. I too have been captivated by Aussie pinots, mainly from Victoria, but more recently from a few sterling examples from the Adelaide Hills. The fruit is beguiling here, but it is nicely complemented by spicy notes that add a distinctive Aussie touch to the pinot experience. Alas, it has all but disappeared from the LCBO shelves, but luckily I was able to stock up before that happened. Last tasted August 2024.
3.5 Stars
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Hunter's Pinot Noir 2022, Wairau Valley, Marlborough, South Island
Marlborough, New Zealand$19.25
Tasting this wine was like welcoming back an old friend. I can recall tasting earlier vintages on various occasions, including at a succession of NZ wine fairs dating back to 2008. This edition is true to form: fruit-forward with spicy notes, soft tannins, a touch of smoke, and a beguiling bit of forest floor earthiness to top it off and win the heart of a pinot afficionado. And, remarkably, it's actually $2 cheaper than it was in 2018... what's not to like?
3.5 Stars
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Domäne Wachau Terrassen Federspiel Grüner Veltliner 2020, Qualitätswein
Wachau, Austria$17.95
Textbook groovy, at a nice price point. I always struggle to describe the aroma and taste of this varietal, so I'll just borrow a page from Michael's book, and simply say "I know, it's only rock 'n roll, but I like it...".
3.5 Stars
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Saintsbury Pinot Noir 2009, Carneros
California, Usa$34.95
I've been a fan of this wine since I first encountered the 1985 vintage. Apparently I'm not alone in my admiration, as Jancis Robinson chose Saintsbury P.N. to illustrate the aging qualities of California P.N. in her 1989 book, Vintage Timecharts. It appears sporadically at the LCBO, and I usually pick up a bottle or two when a new vintage appears, though the price is now getting well outside my comfort level. The 2009 edition is true to form, warm and inviting, with lush fruit, a touch of smoke, and spice from the French oak. That said, the value equation is becoming questionable.
3.5 Stars
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