Barry McLarnon
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Reviews (172)
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Reviews
Thirty Bench Red 2012, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$24.00
I've been buying TB Red for many years, and it nearly always impresses, but this is the best yet. It would be an excellent wine to serve to a naysayer who claims that it's foolhardy to grow these Bordeaux grape varieties in Niagara. To be sure, vintage is all-important, and this was a warm one, but that's true in Bordeaux as well. Just now starting to enter its prime in 2018, the 2012 is rich and satisfying, and a bargain at the price.
3.5 Stars
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Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Pinot Noir 2011, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$30.00
This one is certainly aging gracefully, with no signs of fading. It has an enticing savory nose with intriguing herbal notes, and remarkably deep color for this cool vintage. The price to be paid for this level of extraction shows up on the palate, with mouth-drying tannins and a bitter edge in the finish. A good Pinot for the vintage, but likely could have been even better if made in a more delicate style. May 2017 update: last bottle. Still in decent shape, but starting the downhill slide, with fruit fading into beetroot and leathery notes, furry tannins. Farewell, LCJ!
3.5 Stars
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Tawse Cherry Avenue Pinot Noir 2009, Twenty Mile Bench VQA
Ontario, Canada$57.95
A lovely pinot, now in its prime, very Burgundian in nature. I tried the "entry level" 2009 Grower's Blend a couple of years ago, and it was quite disappointing - it seemed quite thin and acidic, so the pedigree of this premium bottling really shines through. It's well out of my normal price range, but I'm glad I splurged for a couple of bottles when I visited the winery back in 2011.
3.5 Stars
Saintsbury Pinot Noir 2009, Carneros
California, Usa$34.95
I've been a fan of this wine since I first encountered the 1985 vintage. Apparently I'm not alone in my admiration, as Jancis Robinson chose Saintsbury P.N. to illustrate the aging qualities of California P.N. in her 1989 book, Vintage Timecharts. It appears sporadically at the LCBO, and I usually pick up a bottle or two when a new vintage appears, though the price is now getting well outside my comfort level. The 2009 edition is true to form, warm and inviting, with lush fruit, a touch of smoke, and spice from the French oak. That said, the value equation is becoming questionable.
3.5 Stars
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Seresin Leah Pinot Noir 2009, Marlborough, South Island
Marlborough, New Zealand$39.95
I first encountered 'Leah' when I tasted the 2004 vintage at the winery in 2006. It was a standout then, and it remains a favorite of mine today. The 2009 is drinking beautifully (alas, this was my last bottle), with gorgeous fruit and a compelling smoky/spicy character. A slightly idiosyncratic pinot, but in the best possible way.
3.5 Stars
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Domaine Les Grands Bois Cuvée Les Trois Soeurs Côtes Du Rhône 2010, Ac
Rhône, France$16.95
I haven't had many bum steers from Mr. Szabo, but this wine struck a very strong discordant note with me. The name "Grands Bois" seems appropriate, as the wine is predominantly woody, astringent and redolent of iodine. Sure, there is some dark fruit in there, but the woody notes predominate. This heavy-handed wine may have "tremendous appeal" as JS says, but it sure doesn't appeal to me.
3.5 Stars
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Loan Wines Special Reserve Semillon 2004, Unoaked, Barossa Valley, South Australia
South Australia, Australia$15.95
The range of descriptors used by the critics gives you an idea of the complexity of this wine. And all that with no oak! For me, new-mown hay, persimmon, and a touch of honey sum it up nicely. If you've ever had a late-harvest semillon "sticky", you'll have an idea of what to expect from the nose, but it's a bit of a shock to the palette when the wine arrives bone-dry. Definitely not for casual wine drinkers, but adventurous wine aficionados owe it to themselves to give it a go.
3.5 Stars
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Wayne Gretzky Riesling 2015, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$14.95
This is one of the best rieslings on the general list, with an enticing nose of lime, limestone minerality, and a touch of petrol. On the palate, it's off-dry but not cloyingly so, with refreshing, food-friendly acidity. As always, the screwcap closure is a plus.
3.5 Stars
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Follas Novas Albariño 2015, Do Rias Baixas
Galicia, Spain$17.95
I'm always on the lookout for albarino, and this is a fine example. The aromatics are not overly intense, but I really like the complexity, conjuring up various herbal and fruity nuances - keeps you going back for another sniff. Fresh and clean on the palate, a great accompaniment to seafood. And sensibly capped with a screwcap closure - what's not to like?
3.5 Stars
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Malivoire Gamay 2016, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$19.95
This has long been a benchmark for Ontario gamay, and a staple at our abode. Consistently good year after year, but I like the extra bit of richness that it delivers in the warmer vintages, and this is one such. Food-friendly, savoury, and delicious.
3.5 Stars
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