Barry McLarnon
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Reviews (165)
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Reviews
Domäne Wachau Terrassen Federspiel Grüner Veltliner 2020, Qualitätswein
Wachau, Austria$17.95
Textbook groovy, at a nice price point. I always struggle to describe the aroma and taste of this varietal, so I'll just borrow a page from Michael's book, and simply say "I know, it's only rock 'n roll, but I like it...".
3.5 Stars
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Reva Dolcetto D'alba 2022, D.O.C.
Piedmont, Italy$25.95
Lovely - I haven't crossed paths with Dolcetto much in recent years, but this one is a delight to sip, and also very food-friendly. I intend to track down a few more bottles before they vanish from the shelves at local LCBO emporia. Tasted November 2023.
3.5 Stars
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Domaine Du Margalleau Vouvray Sec 2022, Sustainable, Ac
Loire, France$20.95
South Africa is my go-to source for chenin blanc, but this one turned my head in an entirely different direction. A shy yet intriguing nose, but this chenin really delivers on the palate. Lovely fruit here, conveyed effortlessly with a silky smooth and creamy mouth feel, and with a clean and lingering finish... just a delight to sip. Tasted February 2024.
3.5 Stars
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Wayne Gretzky Estate Series Cabernet Merlot 2007, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$16.95
Despite the reputation of 2007 as a great vintage in Ontario, I've had very spotty results with cellaring the 2007 reds. As 2013 draws to a close, I must report that this one is another disappointment. Although there is clearly some good underlying fruit, for me this wine is predominantly woody and astringent, with an unpleasant iodine note. This is a quality I usually associate with the use of American oak, which often shows well in the first few years, and then falls apart. Pity.
3.5 Stars
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Stonier Pinot Noir 2010, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
Victoria, Australia$24.95
A brawny, fruit-forward style of pinot, with plenty of cooked strawberry jam and sour cherry essense, and a note of bitterness in the finish. Pleasant enough, but it lacks the delicacy and subtlety of cool-climate pinot.
3.5 Stars
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Leyda Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Garuma Vineyard, Ledya Valley
San Antonio Valley, Chile$19.95
Obviously a well-made wine, but it leans a little too heavily to the herbaceous/grassy/canned peas side for my taste. As it happens, I tasted the 2012 edition of this wine at the Tarapaca winery earlier this year, and I liked it a lot - it had more tropical fruit character to balance that aggressive herbaceousness. Alas, the 2012 has not appeared on the LCBO shelves, and who knows if it ever will?
3.5 Stars
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Waipara Hills Pinot Noir 2010, Central Otago, South Island
Central Otago, New Zealand$15.75
Very deep color for a pinot. The nose and palette veer away from the usual cherry/berry fruit spectrum into cola, beetroot and other nuances, so good complexity here. My main complaint is a fairly short finish, with a touch of bitterness. Decent value for the price, but I prefer the delicacy of a classic cool climate pinot.
3.5 Stars
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Malivoire Gamay 2012, VQA Niagara Escarpment
Ontario, Canada$17.95
Nice to see the 2012 vintage hit the shelves. I was a big fan of the 2010 edition of this wine, and a tad disappointed with the 2011, which, while still quite drinkable, was rather thin and lean in comparison. The 2012 vintage seems to fall between the two stylistically - a bit less ripe and fleshy than the 2010, but a noticeable improvement over the 2011. I love the cleanness and purity of fruit (a Malivoire trait), with none of that leafy greenness that gamays sometimes exhibit. Food-friendly, and a pleasant sipper on its own - what's not to like?
3.5 Stars
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Angels Gate Riesling 2010, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$13.95
The winemaker has done a commendable job of capturing that stoney/limey riesling quality, especially in this warmer vintage and at such a reasonable price point. That said, I find this wine to be a be a bit too dry and austere for my taste. I think it would show better in an off-dry style, and, as an added bonus, the alcohol would be, say, 9-10% instead of 12%. I'm a big fan of Ontario riesling, but Germany still sets the gold standard for this varietal!
3.5 Stars
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Dr. Pauly Bergweiler Riesling 2012, Qualitätswein
Mosel, Germany$13.95
The stony minerality mentioned by most of the pro reviewers really dominates for me. Highly drinkable, and a decent value at the price, but clearly at the entry level in Dr. P's lineup. Why not spend a few bucks more and pick up an Ontario riesling that will blow this one away? For example, the 2013 edition of the Tawse Sketches riesling...
3.5 Stars
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