Barry McLarnon
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Reviews (177)
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Reviews
Loan Wines Special Reserve Semillon 2004, Unoaked, Barossa Valley, South Australia
South Australia, Australia$15.95
The range of descriptors used by the critics gives you an idea of the complexity of this wine. And all that with no oak! For me, new-mown hay, persimmon, and a touch of honey sum it up nicely. If you've ever had a late-harvest semillon "sticky", you'll have an idea of what to expect from the nose, but it's a bit of a shock to the palette when the wine arrives bone-dry. Definitely not for casual wine drinkers, but adventurous wine aficionados owe it to themselves to give it a go.
3.5 Stars
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Hunter's Pinot Noir 2022, Wairau Valley, Marlborough, South Island
Marlborough, New Zealand$19.25
Tasting this wine was like welcoming back an old friend. I can recall tasting earlier vintages on various occasions, including at a succession of NZ wine fairs dating back to 2008. This edition is true to form: fruit-forward with spicy notes, soft tannins, a touch of smoke, and a beguiling bit of forest floor earthiness to top it off and win the heart of a pinot afficionado. And, remarkably, it's actually $2 cheaper than it was in 2018... what's not to like?
3.5 Stars
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Ruppertsberger Imperial Pinot Noir Trocken 2021, Sustainable, Pfalz
Pfalz, Germany$20.95
I really wanted to like this pinot, but it failed to impress. It started well enough, with a low key but inviting fruity nose accented by oak spice, but it slid downhill from there... I found it quite tight and a little rough on the palate, and the finish was relatively short, with a bitter edge. Even at this fairly modest price point, there are quite a few better choices.
3.5 Stars
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Thirty Bench Red 2007, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$24.00
Our last bottle of the 2007... still very deep color, with no signs of fading. Lots of fruit on the nose and palate, and the tannins have mellowed to the point where they are almost unnoticeable. Drinking well now, but my sense is that it will not improve further and is poised to start falling apart - indeed, it's probably a bit past its prime already. Ultimately, just a tad disappointing, as I wanted a bit more complexity and a longer finish for a 2007 Niagara red at this price point.
3.5 Stars
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Domaine Du Margalleau Vouvray Sec 2022, Sustainable, Ac
Loire, France$20.95
South Africa is my go-to source for chenin blanc, but this one turned my head in an entirely different direction. A shy yet intriguing nose, but this chenin really delivers on the palate. Lovely fruit here, conveyed effortlessly with a silky smooth and creamy mouth feel, and with a clean and lingering finish... just a delight to sip. Tasted February 2024.
3.5 Stars
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Tawse Cherry Avenue Pinot Noir 2009, Twenty Mile Bench VQA
Ontario, Canada$57.95
A lovely pinot, now in its prime, very Burgundian in nature. I tried the "entry level" 2009 Grower's Blend a couple of years ago, and it was quite disappointing - it seemed quite thin and acidic, so the pedigree of this premium bottling really shines through. It's well out of my normal price range, but I'm glad I splurged for a couple of bottles when I visited the winery back in 2011.
3.5 Stars
Reva Dolcetto D'alba 2022, D.O.C.
Piedmont, Italy$25.95
Lovely - I haven't crossed paths with Dolcetto much in recent years, but this one is a delight to sip, and also very food-friendly. I intend to track down a few more bottles before they vanish from the shelves at local LCBO emporia. Tasted November 2023.
3.5 Stars
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Seresin Leah Pinot Noir 2009, Marlborough, South Island
Marlborough, New Zealand$39.95
I first encountered 'Leah' when I tasted the 2004 vintage at the winery in 2006. It was a standout then, and it remains a favorite of mine today. The 2009 is drinking beautifully (alas, this was my last bottle), with gorgeous fruit and a compelling smoky/spicy character. A slightly idiosyncratic pinot, but in the best possible way.
3.5 Stars
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Tomich Woodside Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021, Adelaide Hills, South Australia
South Australia, Australia$20.80
I'm fully onboard with David on this one. I too have been captivated by Aussie pinots, mainly from Victoria, but more recently from a few sterling examples from the Adelaide Hills. The fruit is beguiling here, but it is nicely complemented by spicy notes that add a distinctive Aussie touch to the pinot experience. Alas, it has all but disappeared from the LCBO shelves, but luckily I was able to stock up before that happened. Last tasted August 2024.
3.5 Stars
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Saintsbury Pinot Noir 2009, Carneros
California, Usa$34.95
I've been a fan of this wine since I first encountered the 1985 vintage. Apparently I'm not alone in my admiration, as Jancis Robinson chose Saintsbury P.N. to illustrate the aging qualities of California P.N. in her 1989 book, Vintage Timecharts. It appears sporadically at the LCBO, and I usually pick up a bottle or two when a new vintage appears, though the price is now getting well outside my comfort level. The 2009 edition is true to form, warm and inviting, with lush fruit, a touch of smoke, and spice from the French oak. That said, the value equation is becoming questionable.
3.5 Stars
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