Barry McLarnon
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Reviews (176)
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Reviews
La Posta Armando Bonarda 2013
Mendoza, Argentina$15.95
An exuberantly fruity wine with a touch of oak spice, but little discernable tannin. No great profundity here, but eminently quaffable, and nice to see the alcohol at under 14% for a change. The screwcap closure is a big plus in my books, too.
3.0 Stars
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Momo Pinot Noir 2013, Marlborough, South Island
Marlborough, New Zealand$19.95
I'm a fan of Seresin in general, but this offering didn't bowl me over. An attractive enough cranberry-floral nose, but on the palate, I found it very tart and puckery. There are better pinots available at the same or lower price points, even from Ontario (e.g., the 2013 Flat Rock, which has been going for $17.95 lately).
3.0 Stars
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Calamus Steely Chardonnay 2013, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$15.10
Though not in the top tier of Niagara wineries, Calamus consistently cranks out good value. A particular strength of their winemaking is the way they can coax out attractive aromatics, aided and abetted by the use of screwcap closures to avoid any whiff of cork taint. Unoaked chards are oftimes insipid, but this one has a compelling floral/fruity nose and soft, round mouth feel.
3.0 Stars
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Chateau Des Charmes Aligoté 2014, VQA Niagara On The Lake
Ontario, Canada$15.95
I remember drinking early editions of this wine, maybe 30 years ago. I just checked, and CdC has been growing aligote since 1978. Kudos to them for not pulling out the vines and replacing them with a trendier variety. This edition is clean, fresh and food-friendly, and even in this relatively cool vintage, has very good body and length, putting me in mind of chenin blanc. The screwcap closure is a wise move too. Well done!
3.0 Stars
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Fuzion Chenin Blanc Chardonnay 2016
Mendoza, Argentina$8.95
Clean and fresh, and fine for mindless quaffing, but rather bland and pretty much devoid of character. I'd pay a little more and get something that's a bit more interesting to drink.
3.0 Stars
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Dr. Pauly Bergweiler Riesling Feinherb 2016, Qualitätswein
Mosel, Germany$14.75
I've seldom met a German riesling I didn't like, but then this one came along... as John Szabo says, this is basic entry level riesling, but what really ruined it for me was an off-putting sulphury burnt quality that pervaded both the aroma and taste. Not recommended.
3.0 Stars
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Calamus Estate Winery White Night 2014, VQA Ontario
Ontario, Canada$10.75
Vidal is a workhorse variety that doesn't get a lot of respect (except perhaps when made into icewine), but in the right hands, it can be made into some very palatable and well-priced table wine, of which this is a prime example. What really surprised me is how tropical and exotic this one is, with a very pronounced lychee note in the nose. Since this was not mentioned in the pro reviews, it appears that the wine has continued to evolve in the year or so since they tasted it. I wouldn't bet on its longevity, but it's drinking very well right now.
3.0 Stars
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Periquita White 2018, Peninsula De Setubal
Portugal$8.30
Being a big fan of Portuguese wine in general, I wish I could share Steve's enthusiasm for this one, but I cannot (and my wife concurs). It certainly is highly aromatic, and there is fruit there to be sure, but the aroma includes a component that, for me, conjures up some kind of industrial solvent (which unfortunately lingers for a long time in the finish). And on the palate, there is a sour note that is not particularly pleasant. Not a bargain in my books, but happily, there are many better alternatives (some of them from Portugal) that don't cost a lot more.
3.0 Stars
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Marieta Albariño 2020, D.O. Rías Baixas
Galicia, Spain$15.25
I'm a big fan of Albarino/Alvarinho, and try most of the ones that show up at the LCBO, but an off-dry, lower alcohol rendition is an entirely new experience for me... love it! This has the aromatics and freshness one expects from this varietal, plus a delicate balance between the residual sugar and bracing acidity. It's an ideal summer sipper, and also very food-friendly. I have a case on order, as it will likely soon vanish from the shelves.
3.0 Stars
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Flat Rock Cellars Twisted White 2011, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$16.95
If memory serves, this is the wine that kicked off the flood of trendy unoaked white blends from Niagara. Seems to me it's a bit less compelling than it was a few years ago, but it remains a tasty sipper and has a little extra interest in the nose, thanks to the gewurz component. My main complaint is that it's a bit lacking in the refreshing acidity department, and seems to need an increase in the riesling proportion to give it a bit more zip.
2.5 Stars
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