Barry McLarnon
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Reviews (177)
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Reviews
A To Z Wineworks Pinot Noir 2014, Oregon
Oregon, Usa$24.95
The back label announces "the essence of Oregon", and this description doesn't seem overblown when you taste the wine. This pinot strikes a nice balance between cool and warm climate characteristics, with attractive fruit, fairly deep colour, good varietal typicity, and minimal oak influence. Food-friendly, smooth, and very pleasant to sip - what's not to like?
3.5 Stars
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Flat Rock Chardonnay 2015, VQA Twenty Mile Bench
Ontario, Canada$19.95
Can't add much to the descriptions provided by the pros, except to say that this is yet another example of how world-class chardonnay is being produced here in Ontario, and being marketed at a very reasonable and competitive price.
3.5 Stars
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Parker Coonawarra Estate Chardonnay 2015, South Australia
South Australia, Australia$19.95
If your concept of Aussie chardonnay was based upon Lindeman's Bin 65 of ten years ago or more, this would be quite the eye-opener. Fresh, clean, very food-friendly, with pear-ish fruit that is reminiscent of pinot gris, and virtually no detectable oak influence. Representing the new wave of chardonnay down under, and that's a good thing.
3.5 Stars
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Jardin Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2015, Wo Stellenbosch
Stellenbosch, South Africa$21.95
This ticks all the right boxes for chardonnay: creamy, luscious citrusy fruit, a dash of butterscotch, a touch of toasty oak, and finishing with a dollop of Cape minerality. Nicely done.
3.5 Stars
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Bonfire Hill Extreme Vineyards White 2018, Wo Swartland, South Africa
Western Cape, South Africa$17.95
I'm fully onboard with the critics on this one... "intriguing", "appealing", and "bloody delicious" sum it up nicely. South Africa excels at this kind of chenin blanc + value added blend... my personal favorite is Jonty's Ducks, but that hasn't shown up at the LCBO for a couple of years now. This is a worthy substitute... not a summer patio sipper, perhaps, but this wine has the heft and versatility to accompany many a wide variety of edibles.
3.5 Stars
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Quinta Do Casal Monteiro Touriga Nacional/Merlot/Syrah 2016, Estate Bottled, Doc Tejo
Tejo, Portugal$14.95
We were introduced to the wines of the Tejo region while on a wine tour with Steve Thurlow in 2019, and this is an excellent example of the value to be found there. Supple, with no discernible oak influence, exuberant fruit but not jammy or over the top, herbal/savoury notes... eminently quaffable and very food-friendly, with a modest but clean finish. For 15 bucks, what's not to like?
3.5 Stars
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Königschaffhauser Steingrüble Trocken Pinot Noir 2019, Qualitätswein
Baden, Germany$18.95
I've enjoyed previous vintages of this wine, but this edition doesn't quite hit the mark for me. It's an unusually deep ruby red for a pinot, but the nose is very subdued, with some vague dried cherry and mineral notes. Smooth on the palate with little discernible tannin, but lacking acidic lift and zest, and it has quite a short finish. Certainly drinkable, but lacking in varietal typicity... even in the under $20 price bracket, there are quite a few better options.
3.5 Stars
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Colio Reserve Chardonnay 2020, Graveyard Vineyard, VQA Niagara Lakeshore
Ontario, Canada$19.95
It's a mystery to me how this wine garnered a gold medal and other plaudits from the critics. I like a "kiss of oak" in chardonnay, but the oak in this one is far too dominant. It's a pity heavy-handed winemaking has not allowed the fruit to shine through in this warm vintage. It seems that considerable new oak was used, and I also believe it's seldom a good idea to use American oak in aging a white. It's not a sipper, and it's also difficult to find a suitable food match. Tasted November 2023.
3.5 Stars
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Dirty Laundry Woo Woo Vines Gewürztraminer 2015, BC VQA Okanagan Valley
British Columbia, Canada$15.75
A blowsy gewurz with some decent varietal characteristics and apricoty fruit. Off-dry, despite the rather hefty 13.8% alcohol level. Could use a little more acidity for better balance - might have benefited from earlier picking, perhaps?
3.5 Stars
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Henry Of Pelham Estate Pinot Noir 2019, Sustainable, VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Escarpment
Ontario, Canada$27.95
HofP has had a good handle on making quality pinot noir for many years now... the wines are very reliable, and sometimes inching into the top tier of Niagara pinot. This is a good example, entering its prime now and drinking beautifully: smooth, supple, with fine balance, seamlessly integrating attractive fruit (dried cherries?) and oak spice. Tasted December 2022.
3.5 Stars
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