Barry McLarnon
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Reviews (186)
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Reviews
Rustenberg Stellenbosch Chenin Blanc 2019, W.O. Stellenbosch
Stellenbosch, South Africa$15.95
David's review says it all for me. I often find inexpensive chenin to be on the bland side, and wish it had been blended with more aromatic varietals... not so with this one. I love the exotic qualities of this wine... it could use a touch more acidity, but overall it's very compelling, and it's quite a bargain for $15. It's not the first time I've been impressed by the affordable quality coming from this winery!
3.5 Stars
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A To Z Wineworks Pinot Noir 2014, Oregon
Oregon, Usa$24.95
The back label announces "the essence of Oregon", and this description doesn't seem overblown when you taste the wine. This pinot strikes a nice balance between cool and warm climate characteristics, with attractive fruit, fairly deep colour, good varietal typicity, and minimal oak influence. Food-friendly, smooth, and very pleasant to sip - what's not to like?
3.5 Stars
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Gunderloch Fritz'S Riesling 2021
Germany$15.25
This riesling is dangerously drinkable and a reasonably good value, but David's review seems a little over the top. For one thing, it's $18, not $16... for another, I fail to detect the racy acidity of which he speaks. It's fruit-forward and peachy to be sure, but the moderate acidity puts me in mind of pinot gris more than riesling. Not that that's a bad thing... it's a fine sipper, if not archtypical riesling.
3.5 Stars
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St Hubertus Riesling 2014, BC VQA Okanagan Valley
British Columbia, Canada$13.75
Not unlike many of its Ontario brethren, laden with limey acidity and minerality, but there's a savoury note that sets this BC riesling apart. Not sure if it's sagebrush, as JS suggests, but whatever it is, I like it.
3.5 Stars
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Saint-roch Vielles Vignes Grenache Blanc/marsanne 2015, Côtes Du Roussillon
Languedoc, France$15.95
I had trouble finding this wine here on WA, since the page incorrectly describes it as a grenache/marsanne blend rather than grenache/roussanne. The pictured bottle is wrong too, since the wine has a cork closure, not screwcap. The reviews from the gurus are bang on, though - this is a fine value, reminiscent of some similar white blends from South Africa.
3.5 Stars
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Devil'S Corner Pinot Noir 2012, Tamar Ridge, Tasmania
Australia$23.95
John Szabo seems to have a nose for rubber, but David Lawrason's review is spot on. This is a surprisingly delicate and charming pinot with attractive strawberry/cherry notes and a bit of rhubarb-like astringency. Both food-friendly and a pleasant sipper on its own.
3.5 Stars
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Douloufakis Femina 2015, Aegean Islands
Greece$12.75
Reading all of the critic's reviews gives a good idea of how complex and unusual this wine is, but I think David's review pretty much nails it. Certainly not an everyday sipper, but a fascinating and affordable side trip for the adventurous wine lover.
3.5 Stars
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Königschaffhauser Steingrüble Trocken Pinot Noir 2019, Qualitätswein
Baden, Germany$18.95
I've enjoyed previous vintages of this wine, but this edition doesn't quite hit the mark for me. It's an unusually deep ruby red for a pinot, but the nose is very subdued, with some vague dried cherry and mineral notes. Smooth on the palate with little discernible tannin, but lacking acidic lift and zest, and it has quite a short finish. Certainly drinkable, but lacking in varietal typicity... even in the under $20 price bracket, there are quite a few better options.
3.5 Stars
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Colio Reserve Chardonnay 2020, Graveyard Vineyard, VQA Niagara Lakeshore
Ontario, Canada$19.95
It's a mystery to me how this wine garnered a gold medal and other plaudits from the critics. I like a "kiss of oak" in chardonnay, but the oak in this one is far too dominant. It's a pity heavy-handed winemaking has not allowed the fruit to shine through in this warm vintage. It seems that considerable new oak was used, and I also believe it's seldom a good idea to use American oak in aging a white. It's not a sipper, and it's also difficult to find a suitable food match. Tasted November 2023.
3.5 Stars
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Follas Novas Albariño 2015, Do Rias Baixas
Galicia, Spain$17.95
I'm always on the lookout for albarino, and this is a fine example. The aromatics are not overly intense, but I really like the complexity, conjuring up various herbal and fruity nuances - keeps you going back for another sniff. Fresh and clean on the palate, a great accompaniment to seafood. And sensibly capped with a screwcap closure - what's not to like?
3.5 Stars
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