Barry McLarnon
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Reviews (165)
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Reviews
Rosewood Origin Pinot Noir 2012, VQA Niagara Escarpment
Ontario, Canada$40.00
The fruit is already starting to fade in this warm vintage pinot, but it is leaving behind a smooth and elegant sipper with compelling olfactory nuances. It lacks the acidity to give it real staying power, but right now it is providing drinking pleasure that summons up images of Burgundy. One wonders how it might differ if bottled with screwcap closure, like its lower-tier Select sibling. August 2017 update: fading, but still plenty of fruit in the stewed spectrum, and it has a certain "old world" elegance; pity it lacks the acidity needed for a longer lifespan.
3.0 Stars
Mountain Fish Agiorgitiko 2012, Igp Peloponnese
Peloponnese, Greece$13.70
My first experience with this varietal, I think. Attractive fruity nose with floral notes, but on the palate I found it very dry, even a bit austere. Food-friendly, but not a sipper. The price is reasonable, and the screwcap closure is a plus in my book, but overall I didn't find this wine as compelling as many others in its price range.
3.0 Stars
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Pondview Cabernet Merlot Reserve 2012, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$18.95
Lots of heft to this one, demonstrating that in warm vintages like 2012, Niagara winemakers can pull out all the stops and make a red that mimics the heavyweights from warmer regions of the world. That said, there is a distinct lack of subtlety and charm here - there is underlying blackberry fruit to be sure, but dusty oakiness and furry tannins dominate. Perhaps it will round out with age, but I wouldn't count on it.
3.0 Stars
(0)V
Quails' Gate Gewurztraminer 2014, BC VQA Okanagan Valley
British Columbia, Canada$17.95
This is a well-made and refreshing wine, but for my money, I'd like to see a little more intensity and varietal typicity. It's reminiscent of those ubiquitous "twisted" blends that are often concocted from riesling and chardonnay, with a splash of gewürz thrown in. Nothing wrong with that, but I was expecting more of a full-blown gewürz here.
3.0 Stars
(0)V
Elephant Hill Pinot Noir 2013, Central Otago, South Island
Central Otago, New Zealand$29.95
This dark and brooding pinot seems to be in a 'dumb' phase, still very tight and closed-in. Hard to say if and when it will come around, but right now it's not a pleasure to drink.
3.0 Stars
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Henry Of Pelham Estate Riesling 2013, VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Escarpment
Ontario, Canada$19.95
Certainly quite drinkable, with good acidity, but ultimately not very satisfying. The nose is dominated by petrol, a fault that I've often found with HoP rieslings. In my non-expert opinion, I think they tend to give their riesling grapes too much hang time.
3.0 Stars
(0)V
Coyote's Run Red Paw Vineyard Pinot Noir 2013, VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$20.25
I've always found Coyote's Run pinots to be a bit hit and miss, and I'd put this one on the 'miss' side of the ledger. I thought it had promise when I tasted it at the winery two years ago, but the promise has not been fulfilled. I don't mind the funk that tends to be a CR trademark, but despite the hefty 14% alcohol (what's up with that?), the wine finishes lean and hard, with an odd touch of volatility. In short, a lack of balance doomed this one to mediocrity.
3.0 Stars
(0)V
Beyra Vinhos De Altitude Red 2014, Doc Beira Interior
Portugal$12.95
Nice value here - plummy fruit with some floral notes, and a healthy dose of minerality to add to the complexity. Food friendly and very approachable - would love to visit the Beira area and investigate further!
3.0 Stars
(0)V
Thirty Bench Winemaker's Blend Double Noir 2015, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$18.75
It's been ages since I've tried a Passe-Tout-Grains, so I can't really compare this facsimile to the original, but it's a pleasant and well-made wine. It could easily be mistaken for a 100% gamay wine, and all things considered, I still prefer my go-to pick of that genre from Malivoire, which also happens to be a bit cheaper.
3.0 Stars
(0)V
Echeverria Gran Reserva Chardonnay 2015, Casablanca Valley
Casablanca Valley, Chile$11.25
Lots to like here at this price point, but the oak is a little too pronounced for my taste. I don't know whether it was the use of American oak (seldom a good idea for white wine, in my opinion) in addition to French, or perhaps the percentage of new oak was on the high side. In any case, there was a raw woody note that detracted from the otherwise good impression that this wine made on me.
3.0 Stars
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