Barry McLarnon
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Reviews (172)
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Reviews
Inniskillin Reserve Series Pinot Noir 2011, Niagara On The Lake
Ontario, Canada$24.95
Kirsch-like nose with leathery notes that I don't normally associate with pinot. This wine seems to be maturing rapidly, and is already past its prime. The astringency referred to by John Szabo has not smoothed out, and the finish is thus quite rough. There were some notable successes with pinot in the cool 2011 vintage in Niagara, but for my money, this wasn't one of them.
3.0 Stars
Graham Beck The Game Reserve Chardonnay 2010, Wo Robertson
Robertson, South Africa$16.95
A well-made and fairly-priced chardonnay to be sure, but I was a bit taken aback by the pronounced minerality, which to my nose, conjured up visions of wet concrete. This attribute will certainly have its fans, but it's not really my cuppa tea... err, wine.
3.0 Stars
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Devil's Corner Pinot Noir 2012, Tamar Ridge, Tasmania
Australia$23.95
John Szabo seems to have a nose for rubber, but David Lawrason's review is spot on. This is a surprisingly delicate and charming pinot with attractive strawberry/cherry notes and a bit of rhubarb-like astringency. Both food-friendly and a pleasant sipper on its own.
3.0 Stars
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Castle Rock Pinot Noir 2011, Willamette Valley
Oregon, Usa$19.95
Very fruity at first sniff, in the strawberry-cherry-rhubarb spectrum. More of the same on the palate, but with airing it developed some stemmy, herbaceous notes that reminded me more of gamay than pinot. A bit unusual, which is not necessarily a bad thing, but it doesn't quite hit the bulls-eye for me... there are better choices at the $20 price point.
3.0 Stars
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Stoneleigh Pinot Noir 2013
Marlborough, New Zealand$18.95
Nice to see a pinot of this quality as a general listing, and at a reasonable price too. Not hugely complex, but a compelling sipper with cherry, cola, and floral notes. For me, it strikes the right balance between cool climate delicacy and in-your-face warm climate abundant fruitiness and high alcohol.
3.0 Stars
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Henry Of Pelham Reserve Baco Noir 2012, VQA Ontario
Ontario, Canada$24.95
I'm in agreement with David Lawrason's assessment of this wine - very impressive indeed. However, I have reservations about the aging potential. I tasted the 2010 edition alongside this one, and the difference was night and day. Though similar to the 2012 in its youth, the 2010 has now become excessively woody and redolent of iodine, overwhelming the fruit. I ascribe this to the use of American oak, which seems to show well early in the maturation process, but then rapidly turns obtrusive and nasty with further aging. I'm taking no chances, and will drink my remaining 2012 soon!
3.0 Stars
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Fielding Estate Bottled Pinot Gris 2013, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$17.75
The critics seem to be a bit split on this one... I'll line up with Szabo. Clean and refreshing, with an attractive "fruit salad" nose. But the price is a bit on the steep side, and there are better options, such as the Malivoire PG for a couple of bucks less.
3.0 Stars
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Rosewood Origin Pinot Noir 2012, VQA Niagara Escarpment
Ontario, Canada$40.00
The fruit is already starting to fade in this warm vintage pinot, but it is leaving behind a smooth and elegant sipper with compelling olfactory nuances. It lacks the acidity to give it real staying power, but right now it is providing drinking pleasure that summons up images of Burgundy. One wonders how it might differ if bottled with screwcap closure, like its lower-tier Select sibling. August 2017 update: fading, but still plenty of fruit in the stewed spectrum, and it has a certain "old world" elegance; pity it lacks the acidity needed for a longer lifespan.
3.0 Stars
Mountain Fish Agiorgitiko 2012, Igp Peloponnese
Peloponnese, Greece$13.70
My first experience with this varietal, I think. Attractive fruity nose with floral notes, but on the palate I found it very dry, even a bit austere. Food-friendly, but not a sipper. The price is reasonable, and the screwcap closure is a plus in my book, but overall I didn't find this wine as compelling as many others in its price range.
3.0 Stars
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Pondview Cabernet Merlot Reserve 2012, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$18.95
Lots of heft to this one, demonstrating that in warm vintages like 2012, Niagara winemakers can pull out all the stops and make a red that mimics the heavyweights from warmer regions of the world. That said, there is a distinct lack of subtlety and charm here - there is underlying blackberry fruit to be sure, but dusty oakiness and furry tannins dominate. Perhaps it will round out with age, but I wouldn't count on it.
3.0 Stars
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