Barry McLarnon
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Reviews (186)
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Reviews
Brigaldara Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore 2018, Doc
Veneto, Italy$22.95
Just lovely. This fine Ripasso is just entering its prime drinking window, which will extend for some years to come. It's the whole package: a warm and inviting nose, soft tannins, richness on the palate with great mouthfeel, and a lingering finish. It was a superb match for roast lamb accompanied by roasted root veggies. I see that the next vintage (2019) is still available, and will have to hunt down a few bottles. Tasted October 2023.
4.0 Stars
(0)V
Quartz Reef Pinot Noir 2010, Central Otago
Central Otago, New Zealand$36.25
I had the pleasure of meeting Rudi Bauer and tasting his pinots at the winery in 2006. It's a pity we don't see them more often in Ontario. The 2010 is just entering its prime - not an ethereal cool-climate style, but rich, warm and inviting, with soft tannins and attractive oak spice to provide a counterpoint to the abundant dark fruit.
4.0 Stars
(0)A
Tyrrell'S Hunter Valley Semillon 2025, Hunter Valley, New South Wales, Sustainable
New South Wales, Australia$23.95
This is another one of those essential side trips off the beaten track for true wine aficionados. I loved the 2023 edition, and am still kicking myself for not stocking up. The 2025 is another winner, though notably less fleshy. Rather it is crisp and fresh, with compelling aromatics and a remarkable 10.4% ABV for a fine dry white, perfectly suited to the summer heat. As David says, this wine would be an outstanding match for sushi - my mouth is watering just thinking about it! Tasted July 2026.
4.0 Stars
(5)
Dominique Piron Les Pierres Morgon 2009, Ac
Beaujolais, France$22.95
This wine is drinking beautifully in April 2013... alas, it was my last bottle. David Lawrason's description nails it: an enticing black cherry and blueberry nose, with hints of leather, licorice, and meaty notes. When first opened, it made my thoughts turn more to South Africa than Beaujolais. We kept much of the bottle (vacu-vin'ed and refrigerated) for the next day. When retasted, some of those more volatile nuances were less apparent, leaving that tasty fruit and velvety mouth feel. It really shows the potential of the Gamay grape under the right conditions.
4.0 Stars
(0)V
Malivoire Gamay 2023, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$21.95
Farmstead or not, this benchmark Niagara gamay just keeps going from strength to strength, and this may be the best vintage yet. Great freshness and purity of fruit on offer here. This is a "house wine" at our humble abode, and whenever the occasion calls for a lighter red (< 13% ABV) that is nevertheless compelling, nuanced, and food friendly, this one is at the top of our list.
4.0 Stars
(0)E+(55)O
Niagara College Teaching Winery Balance Pinot Noir Trek Vineyard 2013, VQA Niagara On The Lake
Ontario, Canada$18.95
In recent times in Ontario, we've had cool vintages like '08 and '11, in which some delicate and perfumed pinots were made, but many were lean and thin. Then there were the warm vintages like '10 and '12, producing big fruity pinots, but some were overblown and lacking acidity (picked too late?). Lastly, the "in-between" vintages that hit the sweet spot, of which '09 is a prime example. It appears that '13 is another such, and this aptly-named pinot displays the balance I've come to expect: pristine fruit, complexity, and enough acidity to be refreshing and food-friendly.
4.0 Stars
Seresin Chardonnay 2012, Marlborough
Marlborough, New Zealand$19.25
Love the complexity and intensity here - a chardonnay lover's chardonnay. While I can't sniff out all of the nuances that David can, the smokey-peaty notes overlaid on the fruit are compelling. We visited the winery almost ten years ago, and can still remember the vivid positive impression both their wines and their philosophy made on us.
4.0 Stars
(0)V
Kew Marsanne 2020, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment
Ontario, Canada$22.95
I finally got around to opening this one and... wowsers! Still in its prime, I love the exotic tropical aromatics and creamy mouth feel - it would be quite the quandary to ID in a blind tasting. It put me in mind of an occasion many years ago, sitting at Daniel Lenko's kitchen table and tasting his viognier for the first time. I wonder which crazy visionary planted those marsanne vines? Note to self: try the '23 that is currently available. Tasted March 2026.
4.0 Stars
(0)V
Malivoire Farmstead Gamay 2022, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$21.95
Malivoire once again demonstrates its prowess with this entry level gamay. This vintage is zesty and compelling, with an attractive amalgam of fruit and savoury notes. Even the colour is outstanding, and it's clean, fresh, and very food-friendly.
4.0 Stars
(0)V
Leaning Post The Fifty Chardonnay 2020, Vegan, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$24.95
I prefer my chardonnay to have a bit more of a "kiss of oak", but this one has plenty of leesy goodness to compensate for that shortcoming. Lots of interest in the nose, good body and a nice creamy mouthfeel, and refreshing acidity for food-friendliness. Think I'll pick up another bottle or two to see how it evolves. Tasted March 2023.
4.0 Stars
(0)V