Barry McLarnon
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Reviews (182)
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Reviews
Brigaldara Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore 2018, Doc
Veneto, Italy$22.95
Just lovely. This fine Ripasso is just entering its prime drinking window, which will extend for some years to come. It's the whole package: a warm and inviting nose, soft tannins, richness on the palate with great mouthfeel, and a lingering finish. It was a superb match for roast lamb accompanied by roasted root veggies. I see that the next vintage (2019) is still available, and will have to hunt down a few bottles. Tasted October 2023.
4.0 Stars
(0)V
Emiliana Winemaker's Selection Syrah 2011, Casablanca Valley
Casablanca Valley, Chile$19.95
We visited the winery in 2013, and being organic gardeners ourselves, we were very impressed with their vineyard practices and general philosophy. This wine is soft, smooth and very fruity, without being cloying. 15% alcohol seems a bit over the top, yet there is great balance here and no noticeable hotness in the finish.
4.0 Stars
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Leaning Post The Fifty Chardonnay 2020, Vegan, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$24.95
I prefer my chardonnay to have a bit more of a "kiss of oak", but this one has plenty of leesy goodness to compensate for that shortcoming. Lots of interest in the nose, good body and a nice creamy mouthfeel, and refreshing acidity for food-friendliness. Think I'll pick up another bottle or two to see how it evolves. Tasted March 2023.
4.0 Stars
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Malivoire Farmstead Gamay 2022, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$21.95
Malivoire once again demonstrates its prowess with this entry level gamay. This vintage is zesty and compelling, with an attractive amalgam of fruit and savoury notes. Even the colour is outstanding, and it's clean, fresh, and very food-friendly.
4.0 Stars
(0)V
Kew Marsanne 2020, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment
Ontario, Canada$22.95
I finally got around to opening this one and... wowsers! Still in its prime, I love the exotic tropical aromatics and creamy mouth feel - it would be quite the quandary to ID in a blind tasting. It put me in mind of an occasion many years ago, sitting at Daniel Lenko's kitchen table and tasting his viognier for the first time. I wonder which crazy visionary planted those marsanne vines? Note to self: try the '23 that is currently available. Tasted March 2026.
4.0 Stars
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Malivoire Gamay 2023, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$21.95
Farmstead or not, this benchmark Niagara gamay just keeps going from strength to strength, and this may be the best vintage yet. Great freshness and purity of fruit on offer here. This is a "house wine" at our humble abode, and whenever the occasion calls for a lighter red (< 13% ABV) that is nevertheless compelling, nuanced, and food friendly, this one is at the top of our list.
4.0 Stars
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Dominique Piron Les Pierres Morgon 2009, Ac
Beaujolais, France$22.95
This wine is drinking beautifully in April 2013... alas, it was my last bottle. David Lawrason's description nails it: an enticing black cherry and blueberry nose, with hints of leather, licorice, and meaty notes. When first opened, it made my thoughts turn more to South Africa than Beaujolais. We kept much of the bottle (vacu-vin'ed and refrigerated) for the next day. When retasted, some of those more volatile nuances were less apparent, leaving that tasty fruit and velvety mouth feel. It really shows the potential of the Gamay grape under the right conditions.
4.0 Stars
(0)V
Quartz Reef Pinot Noir 2010, Central Otago
Central Otago, New Zealand$36.25
I had the pleasure of meeting Rudi Bauer and tasting his pinots at the winery in 2006. It's a pity we don't see them more often in Ontario. The 2010 is just entering its prime - not an ethereal cool-climate style, but rich, warm and inviting, with soft tannins and attractive oak spice to provide a counterpoint to the abundant dark fruit.
4.0 Stars
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Stoneleigh Pinot Noir Marlborough 2018
New Zealand$19.95
This is a compelling pinot that punches well above its $20 price point - it has luscious cherry fruit, a touch of spice, and a lovely smoky note. It's in its prime right now, but should be just fine for a couple more years. Best of all, it's still available (though I haven't verified that it's the 2018 vintage currently on offer), so although I already stocked up a few months ago, I'll be heading back for more soon.
3.5 Stars
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Thirty Bench Red 2012, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$24.00
I've been buying TB Red for many years, and it nearly always impresses, but this is the best yet. It would be an excellent wine to serve to a naysayer who claims that it's foolhardy to grow these Bordeaux grape varieties in Niagara. To be sure, vintage is all-important, and this was a warm one, but that's true in Bordeaux as well. Just now starting to enter its prime in 2018, the 2012 is rich and satisfying, and a bargain at the price.
3.5 Stars
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