Barry McLarnon
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Reviews (172)
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Reviews
Dominique Piron Les Pierres Morgon 2009, Ac
Beaujolais, France$22.95
This wine is drinking beautifully in April 2013... alas, it was my last bottle. David Lawrason's description nails it: an enticing black cherry and blueberry nose, with hints of leather, licorice, and meaty notes. When first opened, it made my thoughts turn more to South Africa than Beaujolais. We kept much of the bottle (vacu-vin'ed and refrigerated) for the next day. When retasted, some of those more volatile nuances were less apparent, leaving that tasty fruit and velvety mouth feel. It really shows the potential of the Gamay grape under the right conditions.
4.0 Stars
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Leaning Post The Fifty Chardonnay 2020, Vegan, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$24.95
I prefer my chardonnay to have a bit more of a "kiss of oak", but this one has plenty of leesy goodness to compensate for that shortcoming. Lots of interest in the nose, good body and a nice creamy mouthfeel, and refreshing acidity for food-friendliness. Think I'll pick up another bottle or two to see how it evolves. Tasted March 2023.
4.0 Stars
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Bel Echo Pinot Noir 2018, Marlborough, South Island
Marlborough, New Zealand$25.25
Very savoury/spicy (cinnamon?) when first poured, but the fruit emerged after a bit of aeration, led by sour cherry. This is a sophisticated and nuanced pinot, quite smooth on the palate with a slight edge from soft tannins, and a long finish with just a trace of bitterness. Last tasted September 2024, and significantly improved compared with tasting in the spring of 2023.
4.0 Stars
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Anselmann Edesheimer Ordensgut Weissburgunder Kabinett Trocken 2012, Pradikätswein
Pfalz, Germany$13.95
I'm with David on this one... a compelling pinot gris-like nose with added floral notes, very clean, fresh and lemon-zesty on the palate. Just the thing for spring sipping, food-friendly, and at 11.5% alcohol, very light on its feet - what's not to like?
3.5 Stars
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Mojo Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Coonawarra
South Australia, Australia$17.95
Love the restraint and elegance here - the deep colour has you expecting an Aussie fruit bomb, but that's not at all the case. I'm guessing that the iconic Wynn's Coonawarra Cab Sauv has a bit more richness and complexity, but it's hard to say for sure without a side-by-side comparison. Nice wine at a nice price.
3.5 Stars
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Ruppertsberger Imperial Pinot Noir Trocken 2021, Sustainable, Pfalz
Pfalz, Germany$20.95
I really wanted to like this pinot, but it failed to impress. It started well enough, with a low key but inviting fruity nose accented by oak spice, but it slid downhill from there... I found it quite tight and a little rough on the palate, and the finish was relatively short, with a bitter edge. Even at this fairly modest price point, there are quite a few better choices.
3.5 Stars
(72)V
Thirty Bench Red 2012, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$24.00
I've been buying TB Red for many years, and it nearly always impresses, but this is the best yet. It would be an excellent wine to serve to a naysayer who claims that it's foolhardy to grow these Bordeaux grape varieties in Niagara. To be sure, vintage is all-important, and this was a warm one, but that's true in Bordeaux as well. Just now starting to enter its prime in 2018, the 2012 is rich and satisfying, and a bargain at the price.
3.5 Stars
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Mayschoss 140 Jahre Jubiläumswein Trocken Pinot Noir 2013, Qualitätswein, Ahr
Germany$21.95
Discovered this one hiding in the cellar, purchased exactly two years ago today. The additional aging time has no doubt been beneficial - this is a very impressive wine, with great balance and fruit, coupled with enticing savoury notes. It is perhaps the best pinot I've encountered from Germany, and puts me in mind of Central Otago at its best. Alas, only the one lonely bottle in the cellar, but I'll be on the watch for pinots from the Ahr Valley in the future.
3.5 Stars
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Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Pinot Noir 2011, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$30.00
This one is certainly aging gracefully, with no signs of fading. It has an enticing savory nose with intriguing herbal notes, and remarkably deep color for this cool vintage. The price to be paid for this level of extraction shows up on the palate, with mouth-drying tannins and a bitter edge in the finish. A good Pinot for the vintage, but likely could have been even better if made in a more delicate style. May 2017 update: last bottle. Still in decent shape, but starting the downhill slide, with fruit fading into beetroot and leathery notes, furry tannins. Farewell, LCJ!
3.5 Stars
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Niepoort Dão Rótulo Red 2013, Doc Dão
Dão, Portugal$15.25
This wine certainly bears little resemblance to the inexpensive Daos I was drinking back in the 70s and 80s (Terras Altas comes to mind). This one is all about freshness, and instead of oak, comes with a bracing dollop of minerality. As intended, very food-friendly, even with lighter fare such as roast chicken.
3.5 Stars
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