Barry McLarnon
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Reviews (177)
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Reviews
Malivoire Farmstead Gamay 2022, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$21.95
Malivoire once again demonstrates its prowess with this entry level gamay. This vintage is zesty and compelling, with an attractive amalgam of fruit and savoury notes. Even the colour is outstanding, and it's clean, fresh, and very food-friendly.
4.0 Stars
(0)V
Quartz Reef Pinot Noir 2010, Central Otago
Central Otago, New Zealand$36.25
I had the pleasure of meeting Rudi Bauer and tasting his pinots at the winery in 2006. It's a pity we don't see them more often in Ontario. The 2010 is just entering its prime - not an ethereal cool-climate style, but rich, warm and inviting, with soft tannins and attractive oak spice to provide a counterpoint to the abundant dark fruit.
4.0 Stars
(0)A
Dominique Piron Les Pierres Morgon 2009, Ac
Beaujolais, France$22.95
This wine is drinking beautifully in April 2013... alas, it was my last bottle. David Lawrason's description nails it: an enticing black cherry and blueberry nose, with hints of leather, licorice, and meaty notes. When first opened, it made my thoughts turn more to South Africa than Beaujolais. We kept much of the bottle (vacu-vin'ed and refrigerated) for the next day. When retasted, some of those more volatile nuances were less apparent, leaving that tasty fruit and velvety mouth feel. It really shows the potential of the Gamay grape under the right conditions.
4.0 Stars
(0)V
Terra D'uro Finca La Rana 2012, Do Toro
Castilla y León, Spain$18.95
I had expectations of a rustic country wine, but was impressed by the elegance and balance here. It is perhaps akin to the trend to modernity in Rioja, where some winemakers are turning away from American oak, in favour of French. Without an obscure DO on the label, this is probably better value than many of its more famous brethren.
4.0 Stars
(0)V
Niagara College Teaching Winery Balance Pinot Noir Trek Vineyard 2013, VQA Niagara On The Lake
Ontario, Canada$18.95
In recent times in Ontario, we've had cool vintages like '08 and '11, in which some delicate and perfumed pinots were made, but many were lean and thin. Then there were the warm vintages like '10 and '12, producing big fruity pinots, but some were overblown and lacking acidity (picked too late?). Lastly, the "in-between" vintages that hit the sweet spot, of which '09 is a prime example. It appears that '13 is another such, and this aptly-named pinot displays the balance I've come to expect: pristine fruit, complexity, and enough acidity to be refreshing and food-friendly.
4.0 Stars
Malivoire Gamay 2023, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$21.95
Farmstead or not, this benchmark Niagara gamay just keeps going from strength to strength, and this may be the best vintage yet. Great freshness and purity of fruit on offer here. This is a "house wine" at our humble abode, and whenever the occasion calls for a lighter red (< 13% ABV) that is nevertheless compelling, nuanced, and food friendly, this one is at the top of our list.
4.0 Stars
(1000+)E+(29)O
Seresin Chardonnay 2012, Marlborough
Marlborough, New Zealand$19.25
Love the complexity and intensity here - a chardonnay lover's chardonnay. While I can't sniff out all of the nuances that David can, the smokey-peaty notes overlaid on the fruit are compelling. We visited the winery almost ten years ago, and can still remember the vivid positive impression both their wines and their philosophy made on us.
4.0 Stars
(0)V
Stoneleigh Pinot Noir Marlborough 2018
New Zealand$19.95
This is a compelling pinot that punches well above its $20 price point - it has luscious cherry fruit, a touch of spice, and a lovely smoky note. It's in its prime right now, but should be just fine for a couple more years. Best of all, it's still available (though I haven't verified that it's the 2018 vintage currently on offer), so although I already stocked up a few months ago, I'll be heading back for more soon.
3.5 Stars
(0)G
Niepoort Dão Rótulo Red 2013, Doc Dão
Dão, Portugal$15.25
This wine certainly bears little resemblance to the inexpensive Daos I was drinking back in the 70s and 80s (Terras Altas comes to mind). This one is all about freshness, and instead of oak, comes with a bracing dollop of minerality. As intended, very food-friendly, even with lighter fare such as roast chicken.
3.5 Stars
(0)V
Flat Rock Cellars Pinot Noir 2013, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$22.95
This one really captures the essence of "feminine" pinot noir - an excellent value, especially at the recent discounted price of $17.95. Ed Madronich is clearly making great strides in his aim of making world-class pinot at affordable prices.
3.5 Stars
(0)V