Barry McLarnon
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Reviews (180)
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Reviews
Vineland Estates Elevation St. Urban Vineyard Riesling 2022, St. Urban Vineyard, VQA Niagara Escarpment
Ontario, Canada$22.95
Vineland is a riesling pioneer in Niagara, and has been demonstrating its prowess with this varietal for four decades. The 2023 is out now, but I found 3 bottles of the outstanding 2022 vintage at my local LCBO outlet, and it's even currently on sale at $19.95. The nose is seductive, and the balance is impeccable, with just enough residual sugar to balance the bracing acidity. This world class riesling is the complete package, with under 10% ABV and a long finish - great value! Their entry-level semi-dry riesling is no slouch either. Last tasted December 2024.
4.0 Stars
(1000+)E+(73)O
Quartz Reef Pinot Noir 2010, Central Otago
Central Otago, New Zealand$36.25
I had the pleasure of meeting Rudi Bauer and tasting his pinots at the winery in 2006. It's a pity we don't see them more often in Ontario. The 2010 is just entering its prime - not an ethereal cool-climate style, but rich, warm and inviting, with soft tannins and attractive oak spice to provide a counterpoint to the abundant dark fruit.
4.0 Stars
(0)A
Malivoire Farmstead Gamay 2022, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$21.95
Malivoire once again demonstrates its prowess with this entry level gamay. This vintage is zesty and compelling, with an attractive amalgam of fruit and savoury notes. Even the colour is outstanding, and it's clean, fresh, and very food-friendly.
4.0 Stars
(0)V
Dominique Piron Les Pierres Morgon 2009, Ac
Beaujolais, France$22.95
This wine is drinking beautifully in April 2013... alas, it was my last bottle. David Lawrason's description nails it: an enticing black cherry and blueberry nose, with hints of leather, licorice, and meaty notes. When first opened, it made my thoughts turn more to South Africa than Beaujolais. We kept much of the bottle (vacu-vin'ed and refrigerated) for the next day. When retasted, some of those more volatile nuances were less apparent, leaving that tasty fruit and velvety mouth feel. It really shows the potential of the Gamay grape under the right conditions.
4.0 Stars
(0)V
Brigaldara Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore 2018, Doc
Veneto, Italy$22.95
Just lovely. This fine Ripasso is just entering its prime drinking window, which will extend for some years to come. It's the whole package: a warm and inviting nose, soft tannins, richness on the palate with great mouthfeel, and a lingering finish. It was a superb match for roast lamb accompanied by roasted root veggies. I see that the next vintage (2019) is still available, and will have to hunt down a few bottles. Tasted October 2023.
4.0 Stars
(0)V
Malivoire Gamay 2023, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$21.95
Farmstead or not, this benchmark Niagara gamay just keeps going from strength to strength, and this may be the best vintage yet. Great freshness and purity of fruit on offer here. This is a "house wine" at our humble abode, and whenever the occasion calls for a lighter red (< 13% ABV) that is nevertheless compelling, nuanced, and food friendly, this one is at the top of our list.
4.0 Stars
(1000+)E+(37)O
Leaning Post The Fifty Chardonnay 2020, Vegan, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$24.95
I prefer my chardonnay to have a bit more of a "kiss of oak", but this one has plenty of leesy goodness to compensate for that shortcoming. Lots of interest in the nose, good body and a nice creamy mouthfeel, and refreshing acidity for food-friendliness. Think I'll pick up another bottle or two to see how it evolves. Tasted March 2023.
4.0 Stars
(0)V
Mojo Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Coonawarra
South Australia, Australia$17.95
Love the restraint and elegance here - the deep colour has you expecting an Aussie fruit bomb, but that's not at all the case. I'm guessing that the iconic Wynn's Coonawarra Cab Sauv has a bit more richness and complexity, but it's hard to say for sure without a side-by-side comparison. Nice wine at a nice price.
3.5 Stars
(0)V
Niepoort Dão Rótulo Red 2013, Doc Dão
Dão, Portugal$15.25
This wine certainly bears little resemblance to the inexpensive Daos I was drinking back in the 70s and 80s (Terras Altas comes to mind). This one is all about freshness, and instead of oak, comes with a bracing dollop of minerality. As intended, very food-friendly, even with lighter fare such as roast chicken.
3.5 Stars
(0)V
Ruppertsberger Imperial Pinot Noir Trocken 2021, Sustainable, Pfalz
Pfalz, Germany$20.95
I really wanted to like this pinot, but it failed to impress. It started well enough, with a low key but inviting fruity nose accented by oak spice, but it slid downhill from there... I found it quite tight and a little rough on the palate, and the finish was relatively short, with a bitter edge. Even at this fairly modest price point, there are quite a few better choices.
3.5 Stars
(0)V