Barry McLarnon

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Reviews
Dominique Piron Les Pierres Morgon 2009, Ac
Beaujolais, France$22.95
This wine is drinking beautifully in April 2013... alas, it was my last bottle. David Lawrason's description nails it: an enticing black cherry and blueberry nose, with hints of leather, licorice, and meaty notes. When first opened, it made my thoughts turn more to South Africa than Beaujolais. We kept much of the bottle (vacu-vin'ed and refrigerated) for the next day. When retasted, some of those more volatile nuances were less apparent, leaving that tasty fruit and velvety mouth feel. It really shows the potential of the Gamay grape under the right conditions.
Emiliana Coyam 2016, Los Robles Estate, Colchagua Valley
Colchagua Valley, Chile$29.95
Tasted March 2022. My wife and I first encountered Coyam in 2013, when we tasted the 2010 vintage at the winery. It was young and a bit rough around the edges, but we could clearly see its potential. The 2016 vintage is just entering its prime, a rich and rewarding mouthful that has oodles of nuances and is a delight to sip. I see the 2019 is now on the shelves, so that one will need a few years before it can really start to strut its stuff.
Terra D'uro Finca La Rana 2012, Do Toro
Castilla y León, Spain$18.95
I had expectations of a rustic country wine, but was impressed by the elegance and balance here. It is perhaps akin to the trend to modernity in Rioja, where some winemakers are turning away from American oak, in favour of French. Without an obscure DO on the label, this is probably better value than many of its more famous brethren.
Quartz Reef Pinot Noir 2010, Central Otago
Central Otago, New Zealand$36.25
I had the pleasure of meeting Rudi Bauer and tasting his pinots at the winery in 2006. It's a pity we don't see them more often in Ontario. The 2010 is just entering its prime - not an ethereal cool-climate style, but rich, warm and inviting, with soft tannins and attractive oak spice to provide a counterpoint to the abundant dark fruit.
Malivoire Farmstead Gamay 2022, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$21.95
Malivoire once again demonstrates its prowess with this entry level gamay. This vintage is zesty and compelling, with an attractive amalgam of fruit and savoury notes. Even the colour is outstanding, and it's clean, fresh, and very food-friendly.
Quinta Da Rede Grande Reserva Branco 2014, Doc Douro
Douro, Portugal$21.95
Love the complex and exotic nose, the creamy mouth feel, and the fine balance. A trip off the beaten path, well worth taking.
Avondale Jonty's Ducks Pekin White 2015, Wo Paarl
Paarl, South Africa$16.95
I'm fully in agreement with the gurus on this one. I like chenin blanc, especially for its mouth feel, but sometimes find it a bit shy on the aromatic side. This blend amps up the aromatics, and has beguiling complexity and excellent purity of fruit. Fine value.
Albino Piona Bardolino 2016, Doc
Veneto, Italy$12.75
The hefty bottle belies the lightness and freshness of the wine within. This is a beguiling Bardo with enticing floral and herbal notes, along with food-friendly acidity. Spring in a glass.
Mayschoss 140 Jahre Jubiläumswein Trocken Pinot Noir 2013, Qualitätswein, Ahr
Germany$21.95
Discovered this one hiding in the cellar, purchased exactly two years ago today. The additional aging time has no doubt been beneficial - this is a very impressive wine, with great balance and fruit, coupled with enticing savoury notes. It is perhaps the best pinot I've encountered from Germany, and puts me in mind of Central Otago at its best. Alas, only the one lonely bottle in the cellar, but I'll be on the watch for pinots from the Ahr Valley in the future.
Tahbilk Viognier 2016, Nagambie Lakes, Goulburn Valley
Victoria, Australia$18.95
A fruit-forward viognier with an attractive nose of apricot and spice. Good mouth feel with just enough acidity to keep it refreshing and food-friendly, and it finishes with a touch of minerality. Nicely done.