Barry McLarnon

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Reviews
Coyote's Run Red Paw Vineyard Pinot Noir 2012, VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$24.95
A perplexing pinot from a warm vintage: fairly deep colour and high alcohol (13.5%), but with modest fruit and bitterness on the palate, along with some trademark Coyote's Run funkiness. Certainly still drinkable, but there is a distinct lack of balance in this wine. Pity.
Morandin Wines Pinot Noir Sangreal Estate Vineyard 2017
Canada$35.00
I have a more favorable impression of this pinot than DL, perhaps because that volatile edge has mellowed in the intervening year since he tasted it. Still sour-edged to be sure, but with oodles of cran-cherry fruit and oak spice, along with a touch of earthy funkiness. I'm tempted to call it - dare I say it? - Burgundian, though weighing in at a mere 11.2% ABV, it would have to be old school Burgundian... in any case, it may be idiosyncratic, but it's authentic and distinctive.
Flat Rock Pinot Noir 2018, Twenty Mile Bench
Ontario, Canada$22.95
Just a note for future reference: while 2018 was undeniably not a stellar vintage for this reliable Pinot, I'm pleased to report that, as of January 2021, it has settled nicely. The volatility mentioned in the above reviews has dissipated, and the wine has rounded into a food-friendly libation with sour-edged fruit and a touch of oak spice. It will never be a velvety sipper, but it still shows its pedigree as an above-average Niagara Pinot.
Trail Estate Pinot Noir Unfiltered 2013, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore
Ontario, Canada$25.95
Redolent with sour cherry and cranberry fruit, with a generous dollop of barnyard funk added. Certainly not everyone's cup of tea, but I found this wine quite compelling, reminiscent stylistically of some of the better pinots I've tasted from Coyote's Run. The value proposition at this price point is doubtful, however.
Domaine Gille Côtes De Nuits Villages 2008, Ac, Prop. Récolt.
Burgundy, France$23.40
Nice nose, very floral at first, then settling into dark cherry with a strong hint of cinnamon. Pleasant on the palate, but certainly not velvety, with a bitter tannic edge that was tempered nicely by the food accompaniment. I enjoyed many good and affordable red Burgundies back in the 1980's that were much superior to this one, but sadly, they are now way out of my price range. Nowadays, the New World (New Zealand, California, Ontario,...) offers better value for pinot noir lovers.