Barry McLarnon
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Reviews (165)
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Reviews
Fuzion Chenin Blanc Chardonnay 2016
Mendoza, Argentina$8.95
Clean and fresh, and fine for mindless quaffing, but rather bland and pretty much devoid of character. I'd pay a little more and get something that's a bit more interesting to drink.
3.0 Stars
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Dr. Pauly Bergweiler Riesling Feinherb 2016, Qualitätswein
Mosel, Germany$14.75
I've seldom met a German riesling I didn't like, but then this one came along... as John Szabo says, this is basic entry level riesling, but what really ruined it for me was an off-putting sulphury burnt quality that pervaded both the aroma and taste. Not recommended.
3.0 Stars
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Calamus Estate Winery White Night 2014, VQA Ontario
Ontario, Canada$10.75
Vidal is a workhorse variety that doesn't get a lot of respect (except perhaps when made into icewine), but in the right hands, it can be made into some very palatable and well-priced table wine, of which this is a prime example. What really surprised me is how tropical and exotic this one is, with a very pronounced lychee note in the nose. Since this was not mentioned in the pro reviews, it appears that the wine has continued to evolve in the year or so since they tasted it. I wouldn't bet on its longevity, but it's drinking very well right now.
3.0 Stars
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Periquita White 2018, Peninsula De Setubal
Portugal$8.30
Being a big fan of Portuguese wine in general, I wish I could share Steve's enthusiasm for this one, but I cannot (and my wife concurs). It certainly is highly aromatic, and there is fruit there to be sure, but the aroma includes a component that, for me, conjures up some kind of industrial solvent (which unfortunately lingers for a long time in the finish). And on the palate, there is a sour note that is not particularly pleasant. Not a bargain in my books, but happily, there are many better alternatives (some of them from Portugal) that don't cost a lot more.
3.0 Stars
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Marieta Albariño 2020, D.O. Rías Baixas
Galicia, Spain$15.25
I'm a big fan of Albarino/Alvarinho, and try most of the ones that show up at the LCBO, but an off-dry, lower alcohol rendition is an entirely new experience for me... love it! This has the aromatics and freshness one expects from this varietal, plus a delicate balance between the residual sugar and bracing acidity. It's an ideal summer sipper, and also very food-friendly. I have a case on order, as it will likely soon vanish from the shelves.
3.0 Stars
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Flat Rock Cellars Twisted White 2011, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$16.95
If memory serves, this is the wine that kicked off the flood of trendy unoaked white blends from Niagara. Seems to me it's a bit less compelling than it was a few years ago, but it remains a tasty sipper and has a little extra interest in the nose, thanks to the gewurz component. My main complaint is that it's a bit lacking in the refreshing acidity department, and seems to need an increase in the riesling proportion to give it a bit more zip.
2.5 Stars
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Wither Hills Wairau Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Marlborough, New Zealand$19.95
Though I've been a fan of most Wither Hills offerings in the past, this one struck me as well off the mark, veering way too far into the herbaceous side of the Savvy spectrum for my taste. Very lean and grassy, with a nose that suggests canned peas. Disappointing.
2.5 Stars
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Henry Of Pelham Estate Pinot Noir 2010, VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$24.95
Drinkable, but only just. This wine is well past its prime, and fading rapidly. What fruit remains is in the pruney spectrum, and there is a volatile vinyl note in the nose that isn't pleasant (my wife insists that the bottle is corked, but it doesn't smell like TCA to me). From a warm vintage like 2010, I would expect more stuffing and balance for the long haul, but this one missed the mark. I've always found HoP pinot noirs to be hit and miss in terms of quality, and this is yet another illustration that they are not quite in the top ranks of Niagara producers of that finicky variety.
2.5 Stars
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Coyote's Run Red Paw Vineyard Pinot Noir 2012, VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$24.95
A perplexing pinot from a warm vintage: fairly deep colour and high alcohol (13.5%), but with modest fruit and bitterness on the palate, along with some trademark Coyote's Run funkiness. Certainly still drinkable, but there is a distinct lack of balance in this wine. Pity.
2.5 Stars
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Morandin Wines Pinot Noir Sangreal Estate Vineyard 2017
Canada$35.00
I have a more favorable impression of this pinot than DL, perhaps because that volatile edge has mellowed in the intervening year since he tasted it. Still sour-edged to be sure, but with oodles of cran-cherry fruit and oak spice, along with a touch of earthy funkiness. I'm tempted to call it - dare I say it? - Burgundian, though weighing in at a mere 11.2% ABV, it would have to be old school Burgundian... in any case, it may be idiosyncratic, but it's authentic and distinctive.
2.5 Stars
