Barry McLarnon
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Reviews (172)
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Reviews
Castelo Do Mar Albariño 2016, Do Rías Baixas
Galicia, Spain$18.95
I'll keep the rating unanimous! I'm fan of this varietal, and this is a fresh and food-friendly example. Perfectly pleasant to drink, but I wanted a bit more character, especially on the aromatic side.
3.0 Stars
(0)V
Malivoire Pinot Noir Small Lot 2017, VQA Beamsville Bench
Ontario, Canada$29.95
Close to three years ago, Michael expressed a desire to revisit this wine in two years... if he did so, I'll wager that he would affirm that it has developed beautifully. This limpid beauty has emerged with its cran-cherry fruit core intact, volatility dissipated, and with attractive nuances of spice and a touch of forest floor earthiness. Despite its Bench origin, it reminds me of nothing so much as one of the better pinots from Coyotes Run, and it's just now entering its prime... none left in my cellar, though!
3.0 Stars
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Bodega Salentein Pinot Noir Portillo 2020, Uco Valley
Mendoza, Argentina$17.95
I've also visited and stayed at this estate (in 2013) and have fond (though hazy) memories of it. I tried one bottle of this 2020 vintage, but thereafter it was the 2021 that was on offer at the LCBO, and I think it's even better. Steve's description is still apt for the 2021 vintage, but it's even more floral, remarkably so. It's clean and light on its feet, an excellent summer sipper at only 12.5% ABV. Hopefully, future vintages of this bargain-priced pinot will show up in Ontario. Last tasted June 2023.
3.0 Stars
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Bonterra Chardonnay 2020, Mendocino County
California, Usa$21.95
It's curious that this vintage, reviewed by the critics 16 months ago, is still on offer at the LCBO in July 2023. It's currently on sale, so maybe they're trying to move out some old stock. I've enjoyed this wine in the past, but this vintage just doesn't do it for me. Plenty of extract and flavour to be sure, but on the palate it's coarse and disjointed. I could be wrong, but I'm ascribing these faults at least in part to the use of American oak, which in my view should never be used in whites, and only occasionally in reds.
3.0 Stars
(1000+)E+(17)O
Christopher Michael Northwest Winemakers Pinot Noir 2022, Oregon
Oregon, Usa$21.95
The actual ABV of this wine is a bit of a mystery. The printed label on the bottle indicates 14%, but there is an added sticker that says 12.2%. Meanwhile, the LCBO website says 13.5%! Which one is right? Dunno, but I'm guessing the 12.2% figure is most accurate. In any case, this is pretty basic stuff. No glaring faults, but overall I'd sum it up as serviceable but nondescript and lacking in character. At $22, it's cheap for an Oregon pinot, but still no bargain in my book.
3.0 Stars
(15)V
Yalumba Gen Organic Chardonnay 2022, South Australia
South Australia, Australia$16.25
Certainly not a cool climate rendition, and it won't make the purists happy, but I like it - it is very fruit-forward with compelling aromatics and a soft and creamy mouthfeel, yet it retains essential varietal characteristics. The "blowsy" descriptor is apt, but it falls well short of "flabby", and the modest 12.5% ABV is a big plus. In short, a user-friendly chard at a nice price. Tasted July 2024.
3.0 Stars
(282)V
Flat Rock Cellars Pinot Noir 2009, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$19.95
I was very impressed with this wine when we tasted it with Ed Madronich at the winery in 2015. Here we are now in January 2018, and it's even better - the fruit remains vibrant, the oak well integrated, and the nose beautifully smoky and distinctively pinot. This is well beyond the drinking window envisioned by the pros, and a great testimony to the ageability of Ontario pinot noir. The trick now is to figure out which recent vintages have this kind of potential.
3.0 Stars
(0)V
Miopasso Fiano 2011, Igp Terre Siciliane
Sicily, Italy$14.95
This was my first experience with this particular varietal, and I came away quite impressed, even though whites with 14.5% alcohol aren't usually my cuppa tea. Golden-hued, full and fleshy with vague fruit overtones, with great mouth feel. Clearly a warm climate white that is on the edge of being flabby, but refreshing enough to pull it back from the edge... like a glass of liquid sunshine. In a blind tasting, I likely would have conjured up South African chenin blanc, which is not a bad thing at all.
3.0 Stars
(0)V
Citra Sangiovese Terre Di Chieti 2011
Abruzzo, Italy$7.95
I concur with the pros on this one. No great profundity here, but nice fruit with attractive spicy notes, soft tannins, and enough acidity to be food-friendly. Refreshing to see an Italian wine under a screwcap closure too. Hard to beat this one for value!
3.0 Stars
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De Bortoli Gulf Station Pinot Noir 2011, Yarra Valley
Victoria, Australia$19.95
Attractive nose, with some interesting cool-climate floral characteristics, but on the palate it's surprisingly thin and acidic. Seems to me that this wine was better in past vintages... in any case, one can do better at the $20 price point.
3.0 Stars
(0)V