Barry McLarnon
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Reviews
Quails' Gate Gewurztraminer 2014, BC VQA Okanagan Valley
British Columbia, Canada$17.95
This is a well-made and refreshing wine, but for my money, I'd like to see a little more intensity and varietal typicity. It's reminiscent of those ubiquitous "twisted" blends that are often concocted from riesling and chardonnay, with a splash of gewürz thrown in. Nothing wrong with that, but I was expecting more of a full-blown gewürz here.
Elephant Hill Pinot Noir 2013, Central Otago, South Island
Central Otago, New Zealand$29.95
This dark and brooding pinot seems to be in a 'dumb' phase, still very tight and closed-in. Hard to say if and when it will come around, but right now it's not a pleasure to drink.
Henry Of Pelham Estate Riesling 2013, VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Escarpment
Ontario, Canada$19.95
Certainly quite drinkable, with good acidity, but ultimately not very satisfying. The nose is dominated by petrol, a fault that I've often found with HoP rieslings. In my non-expert opinion, I think they tend to give their riesling grapes too much hang time.
Coyote's Run Red Paw Vineyard Pinot Noir 2013, VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$20.25
I've always found Coyote's Run pinots to be a bit hit and miss, and I'd put this one on the 'miss' side of the ledger. I thought it had promise when I tasted it at the winery two years ago, but the promise has not been fulfilled. I don't mind the funk that tends to be a CR trademark, but despite the hefty 14% alcohol (what's up with that?), the wine finishes lean and hard, with an odd touch of volatility. In short, a lack of balance doomed this one to mediocrity.
Beyra Vinhos De Altitude Red 2014, Doc Beira Interior
Portugal$12.95
Nice value here - plummy fruit with some floral notes, and a healthy dose of minerality to add to the complexity. Food friendly and very approachable - would love to visit the Beira area and investigate further!
Thirty Bench Winemaker's Blend Double Noir 2015, VQA Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$18.75
It's been ages since I've tried a Passe-Tout-Grains, so I can't really compare this facsimile to the original, but it's a pleasant and well-made wine. It could easily be mistaken for a 100% gamay wine, and all things considered, I still prefer my go-to pick of that genre from Malivoire, which also happens to be a bit cheaper.
Echeverria Gran Reserva Chardonnay 2015, Casablanca Valley
Casablanca Valley, Chile$11.25
Lots to like here at this price point, but the oak is a little too pronounced for my taste. I don't know whether it was the use of American oak (seldom a good idea for white wine, in my opinion) in addition to French, or perhaps the percentage of new oak was on the high side. In any case, there was a raw woody note that detracted from the otherwise good impression that this wine made on me.
Monterra Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2015, Adelaide Hills, South Australia
South Australia, Australia$14.75
Seriously, I think many winemakers would be embarrassed to admit that they made a pinot noir having 14.5% alcohol, but I guess that's how they roll in the Adelaide Hills This is about as far from classic cool climate pinot as you can get (especially with that pungent eucalyptus note), but if you lower your expectations along those lines, this is actually quite an interesting and pleasant tipple.
Snapper Rock Marlborough Pinot Gris 2016, Marlborough, South Island
Marlborough, New Zealand$16.95
I was taken aback when I tasted this one - it was not what I was expecting after reading the pro reviews. The nose was decent, with a recognizable gris character, but on the palate, I found the wine to be very dry and austere, with a bitter edge and alcoholic heat - no hint of sweetness whatsoever. I wouldn't expect much bottle variation with screwcap closures, but I have no other explanation.
Cave Spring Gamay 2016, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$16.95
Attractive fruitiness, some intriguing tangy/savoury notes, and food-friendly acidity. Not quite as rich and nuanced as my benchmark for this variety in Niagara (Malivoire), but good value at that price point.