Michael Stickings
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Reviews (246)
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Reviews
Herdade Do Portocarro 2010, Torrão, Vinho Regional Península De Setúbal
Portugal$12.75
This interesting blend is all over the place -- lean then soft, basic then complex, shallow then rich. The nose is very nice, with fresh cherry, dark berries, raisin, cured meat, herbs, and black pepper, but on the palate it's subdued, mostly dried fruit and wood -- quite bland, actually. But there's also a refreshing tartness that peaks out here and there, and while there isn't much depth, and while the bland flavours end abruptly, there are lingering notes, with impressive length, that suggest an almost port-like quality. Interesting, with a lot going on, but frustratingly inconsistent.
3.5 Stars
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Domaine Des Bacchantes Côtes Du Rhône 2012
Rhône, France$16.95
Big, thick, rich, and hot, this Syrah-based blend (70%) comes across like an overbaked spicy fruit pudding served with earth and leather -- blackberry, raspberry, black pepper, and brown baking spices all mixed together, slight meaty notes lurking in the background, the earthiness keeping it real. These elements are muddled, though, and what rescues it is the acidity, the cran-cherry tang, along with a solid structure despite the pudding-ness. The value is certainly there, and the fruit-spice combination is certainly appealing, but otherwise this is just a decent CdR without much distinction.
3.5 Stars
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Emiliana Novas Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2013
Maipo Valley, Chile$15.95
Emiliana's organic Novas range is great value, but this Cab-Merlot blend is also really good regardless. It's somewhat rough now, in its youth, but the elements are all there, with a sweet, buttery nose and notes of cassis, blackberry, raspberry, plum, graphite, and mint, enough savoury goodness to offset the sweet fruit. It lacks depth on the palate, it's a touch bitter on the finish, and it's just too coarse overall (if quite a bit smoother and softer by the second day), but this is a very fine effort nonetheless, yet more proof that high-quality wine can carry a very reasonable price tag.
3.5 Stars
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Matetic Corralillo Sauvignon Blanc 2014, San Antonio Valley
San Antonio Valley, Chile$14.95
This isn't quite at the level of Matetic's fantastic Syrah, but it's still a really good single varietal from a great producer at an exceptional price. It's young, fresh, and vibrant, with typical SB notes prominent but not overbearing: nettle, gooseberry, passion fruit, and lime, the combination providing significant verve. But what makes this a genuinely good wine is a savoury vegetal streak that manifests itself subtly as green pepper and herbs, along with a closing bitterness that suggests ample underlying structure. Very nicely done, flavourful and refreshing, with admirable complexity.
3.5 Stars
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Zuccardi Series A Bonarda 2012, Santa Rosa
Mendoza, Argentina$16.95
This is a soft, buttery, approachable Bonarda that admirably shows the varietal's broad, easy appeal. While initially it seems uninteresting and unstructured beyond the norm, the appeal deepens, the nose showing blackberry, blueberry, creamy butter, spicy white pepper, and candle wax, with some GSM-style meaty-funky notes emerging later. Dark fruit and tangy cherry emerge on the palate as well, with impressive length. Indeed, this turns out to be rather less lush and plush, and more complex, than other Bonardas I've had, making it far more interesting than the initial assessment suggests.
3.5 Stars
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Emiliana Novas Gran Reserva Syrah/Mourvèdre 2012, Colchagua Valley
Cachapoal Valley, Chile$15.95
What an incredible value, this organic Syrah-Mourvèdre blend from Emiliana. It opens with a gorgeous nose of fresh wild strawberries bathed in black pepper spice, broadening with raspberry, cherry, and darker purple fruit, as well as vanilla, earthy-meaty notes, and a touch of herbal-woody bitterness. It's somewhat chalky on the palate, with a certain roughness taking over, but the fruit lingers nicely, as does the spiciness, and the creamy, comforting softness of Chilean Syrah really comes through. It could benefit from a bit of aging, but it's awfully inviting right now.
3.5 Stars
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Clos De Los Siete 2012, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Mendoza, Argentina$23.95
An Argentinian wine with a distinctly French feel (from Michel Rolland), the Malbec is front and center, as this is lush and approachable, dense and sweet, with lovely dark fruit, mostly blackberry, blueberry, and prune. But the intrigue comes from the other 43%, and especially from the non-Bordeaux Syrah (9%), with meaty and mildly spicy notes adding a savoury element to the mix and nicely complementing the Bordelais fruit. Well-structured, with a creamy texture and vibrant acidity, it's bit too lean and bitter on the palate, and the length could be better, but it's still elegant overall.
3.5 Stars
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Les Charmes De Magnol 2010, Ac Médoc
Bordeaux, France$18.95
If you were trying to make a wine that ticked off all the boxes for a good-quality, solid-value, straight-down-the-line Bordeaux, this might just be the result, with the greatness of the 2010 vintage elevating it nicely. It showcases the two key varietals, Cab and Merlot, it presents all the key notes (cassis, graphite, mocha, earth, black pepper), and it has the sophisticated structure one expects from even middling Bordeaux. Sure, it's very good, very approachable, and very representative, but it seems manufactured, as if those behind it were trying a bit too hard, however tasty the result.
3.5 Stars
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Terranoble Gran Reserva Carmenère 2011, Maule Valley
Maule Valley, Chile$19.95
A disappointing if not altogether unpleasant Carménère, this shallow Gran Reserva opens with Cab-like cassis and other deep purple fruit before turning more Syrah-like, in a rather uninviting way, with meat, earth, and black pepper. It tastes quite a bit better than it smells, with characteristic green pepper and herbal notes adding belated complexity, but even then it doesn't have all that much to recommend it.
3.5 Stars
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Espelt Viticultors Old Vines Garnacha 2013, Do Empordà
Spain$14.95
This is very much a product of its Catalonian terroir near the French border, the region's moderating Mediterranean climate helping it achieve balance and complexity that are simply astounding at the price. It opens with olives, capers, and brine, with a sense of herbs growing out of rocks, all quite meaty and minerally. But then the soft Garnacha fruit appears, dark blueberries, plums, and ripe cherries, then lighter and sweeter, raspberry and strawberry, with licorice, cranberry, vanilla, and pepper. The flavours are bold, but there's no cloying sweetness or thick soupiness. Fantastic.
3.5 Stars
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