Michael Stickings
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Reviews (246)
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Reviews
Finca El Encinal Crianza 2010, Do Ribera Del Duero
Ribera Del Duero, Spain$17.95
At times this strange RDD is deep and rich and dominated by alluring dark fruit flavours of fig and plum, whereas at others it's like drinking sour cherry juice, and while that rich/sour combination comes across as a contradiction, surprising wisps of earth, leather, bretty funk, red berries, and even asparagus, along with a heavy oak structure, provide sufficient complexity to keep it interesting. It doesn't quite hold together, not least on the dry-sour finish, but this is still solid value for a wine that while not regionally distinct is at least curious enough to admire.
2.0 Stars
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Château Peyros Tannat/Cabernet 2008, Ac Madiran
Southwest, France$15.95
Distinctively Tannat, and distinctively SW France, this inky blend requires significant decanting/patience to tame its powerful tannins, but, once there, it offers up a nose of well-worn leather along with pine, mint, and bay leaf; the Cab Franc smooths things out a bit, providing dark fruit to the mix, and there's a sour cherry/raspberry tang, but there just isn't enough stuffing here and so the whole thing seems rather insipid in the end; still, this is pretty much the opposite of what passes for fruit-forward commercialism these days, so credit for its distinctiveness even if it falls short.
2.0 Stars
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Yellow Tail Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Australia$12.95
A basic, hugely popular Cab, understandably so given its excessive sweetness, ripe dark fruit (cassis, blackberry, blueberry), and notes of vanilla, black pepper, and baking spice. But this easy and broad appeal, presumably to many, comes with a lack of structure (it's like drinking sweet/rich alcoholic fruit juice, coming across as quite hot) and, obviously, a lack of anything even resembling sophistication. That's too much to ask for in a wine of this caliber, perhaps, a wine destined for the global market, and it's okay, just okay, for what it is, but it's still overly simple and confected.
2.0 Stars
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Belle Glos Meiomi Pinot Noir 2012
California, Usa$26.95
A distinctively California Pinot, which is to say, particularly given the presence of Santa Barbara and Monterey grapes alongside Sonoma, a thick and rich Pinot that is something of a departure from most other (earthy, more frugal) Pinots; strong smoky and spicy notes from the nose through the lingering finish, but some excellent red fruit emerges as well, particularly cherry, strawberry, and raspberry; certainly on the sweet side, with chocolate coming through amidst the fruit, but very pleasant and layered with enough complexity to avoid seeming monolithic.
2.0 Stars
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Castillo De Almansa Reserva 2012
Spain$13.35
The '12 is somewhat leaner and less overtly oaky than recent vintages, but it's also more disjointed, at least initially. There's a lot going on, with varied notes of vanilla cream, black pepper, coffee liqueur, baking spice, dark berries, dried dark fruit, cran-cherry, and leather, with an unpleasantly funky hit, but it doesn't hold together -- too much of this, then too much of that. With time, though, the funk leaves and the rest unites into an admirably complex blend with nice acidity and fine tannins. It's rough, and a bit muddy, but it's still one of my favourite "value" reds.
2.0 Stars
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