Michael Stickings
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Reviews (246)
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Reviews
Tormaresca Trentangeli 2012, Doc Castel Del Monte
Puglia, Italy$19.95
This Aglianico blend opens with a blast of dark berries and other dark fruit, led by Cab-based cassis, but then turns overly tart, cranberry-pomegranate on the nose and excessive acidity on the palate. But then, stability, the fruit achieving balance, supported by earthy, spicy, and herbal notes. Given the fruit depth, high acidity, and prominent tannins, this would benefit from further aging and softening, but, even now, what really stands out is the wonderful, characteristically southern Italian metallic iron streak that acts as the true backbone of this enormously appealing "Super Puglian."
3.5 Stars
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Les Trois Couronnes 2014, Crozes Hermitage
Rhône, France$8.25
A solid value, this 100% Syrah from the northern Rhône is thin on the palate, with bland wood leading to some bitterness on the finish, but the nose is quite good with characteristic notes of black pepper (loads and loads of it) and cured/smoked meat at the core surrounded by blackberry, violet, and licorice, with a certain lactic thickness provided by notes of heavy cream and marshmallow. More savoury than fruity, it's dry yet easygoing and drinking very well even so young (if given time to open up), with soft tannins and enough acidity to balance the savouriness, particularly with food.
3.5 Stars
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Layers Shiraz/Tempranillo/Mourvèdre/Grenache 2012, Barossa, South Australia
South Australia, Australia$17.95
Balance, elegance, complexity. This blend offers aromas and flavours of blackberry, raspberry, cherry, redcurrant, earth, black pepper, wild herbs, licorice, and cured meat, and it's like a happy marriage between southern France and northeastern Spain (without the imposing Rioja oak and Rhône/Midi funk), Tempranillo tartness lifting up the earthier, denser GSM to a level of delicate stability. What really stands out, though, is just how admirably restrained and understated this blend is, a far cry from stereotypical Aussie reds (and Shirazes in particular). It's also a fantastic value.
3.5 Stars
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Santa Duc Roaix Les Crottes 2010, Ac Côtes Du Rhône Villages
Rhône, France$17.25
This Grenache-Syrah blend (80/20) just screams southern Rhône, with its bretty, animal funk floating atop dense dark baked and stewed fruit (berries, cherries, figs), pepper, roasted meat, and earth. It's actually remarkably dense, with deep, concentrated flavours swimming in a thick, grainy, rustic texture. For the price, this is even more remarkable, but really, for all that character, this is a wine lacking finesse and balance, and at this point in its evolution also acidic freshness, and while the fruit ends up collapsing into a puddle, what's left is mostly that excessive bretty cover.
3.5 Stars
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Hecht & Bannier St Chinian 2011
Languedoc, France$20.75
Somewhat better than the Minervois, H&B's Saint-Chinian, a Syrah-Grenache-Mourvèdre blend, is another complex, complicated, and ultimately challenging wine. It opens with a stunning burst of dark fruit, notably blackberries and plums, deepening with leather, black pepper, licorice, vanilla, baking spice, herbs, and a driving current of minerality. But then it flattens out, revealing a core of austerity, the initial burst fading, and so while there's a lot going on, rooted deeply in its terroir, it proves to be a rather severe and unforgiving effort overall.
3.5 Stars
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Casa Lapostolle Gran Seleccion Carmenere 2012, Rapel Valley
Chile$15.00
Unlike the '11, which included 6% Merlot and 5% Syrah, the '12 includes 7% Cab. But while the Cab certainly adds cassis and general depth to the mix, the result comes across very much like a Syrah-based blend from southern France given its meaty and spicy notes and overall somewhat rustic texture. That said, the characteristic Carmenère elements are present as well, notably green pepper, which is subdued but opens up with time and adds to the black pepper, blackberry, and other dark fruit. It's a bit tarry at first, then sweet, then chalky on the finish, but it's big and bold and flavourful.
3.5 Stars
Mas Des Bressades Cuvée Tradition Rosé 2015, Ap Costières De Nîmes
Rhône, France$16.95
A blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault, this accessible but serious rosé admirably showcases both fruity and savoury elements, with strawberry, raspberry, and cherry complemented by rhubarb, pepper, and herbs (of the local variety, but there's a faint hint of marijuana as well), and meatiness from the Syrah. It's dry, with nice structure, and there's an orange-grapefruit element that provides both acidity and closing bitterness (meshing with the red-orange hue). Despite the dryness, there's an unfortunate confectionary quality that emerges on the palate. Still awfully good for what it is.
3.5 Stars
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Nk'mip Cellars Winemaker's Series Merlot 2011, BC VQA Okanagan Valley
British Columbia, Canada$18.95
This B.C. Merlot comes across like a decent impersonation of right-bank Bordeaux, even as it's very much indicative of that single varietal. There are aromas of blueberry, plum, leather, earth, charcoal, tobacco, and pencil lead, with some rubber emerging later, and that fairly complex combination is certainly enticing. Spice enters on the palette, but by that point the sweetness has taken over, with the wine seeming a bit confected and artificial, and while it's medium-bodied, there's not much depth, the flavours dying mid-palette with the onset of dryness, the finish chalky.
3.5 Stars
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Graffigna Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Pedernal Valley, San Juan Province
Argentina$17.95
Gorgeous Cab at a great price; rich and smooth with luscious aromas and flavours of cassis and violet accented by subtle spice and smoke; excellent fruit-tannin balance.
3.5 Stars
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Edmeades Zinfandel 2013, Mendocino County
California, Usa$23.95
This packs a ton of flavour and impressive depth and concentration into a controlled structure without ever seeming excessive, unlike so much Zinfandel. On the nose, it presents notes of chocolate, coffee, maple / French toast, and light baking spice, but there's ample fruit as well (dark berries, plums, cherries), while on the palate there's an additional buttery note. It's quite sweet, and rather hot, and there's no denying how rich and texturally luscious this is, but there's enough control to keep everything from turning into jam or soup. A Zin that delivers everything a Zin should.
3.5 Stars
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