Michael Stickings
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Reviews
Château De Panigon 2010, Ac Médoc
Bordeaux, France$19.95
Perhaps much of the appeal of this mostly Merlot-Cab blend should be chalked up to the glorious 2010 vintage, but this is quintessentially Bordeaux. It's beautifully fragrant, with an inviting nose of raspberry, plum, red licorice, and graphite, a lovely combination of fruit and minerals accented by vanilla, earth, and (just enough) oak. The problem is that the taste is somewhat hollow, with acidity muting the richness of the fruit, the aromatic complexity lost. There's likely enough stuffing here for longer-term aging, and it needs time to open up regardless, but it's certainly got potential.
3.5 Stars
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Dandelion Vineyards Lionheart Of The Barossa Shiraz 2011, Barossa Valley
South Australia, Australia$19.95
I'm generally not a huge fan of Australian Shiraz, what with its overripe, overwrought, commercially-driven, in-your-face tendencies, but with its burst of black pepper spice, savoury meaty-earthy-herbal elements (plus a hint of salt on the finish), rich purple fruit, and touch of funkiness (bandaid), this one actually seems more like a Syrah-based blend from the southern Rhône, and that's very much to its credit. It's still big, bold, and obvious, the fruit (cassis, blackberry, blueberry) ripe, the wood pronounced, but it's admirably restrained and interesting overall, defying the stereotype.
3.5 Stars
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Concha Y Toro Marques De Casa Concha Chardonnay 2012, Limari
Limari Valley, Chile$19.95
From Chile's cool Limarí Valley, this achieves outstanding balance, depth, and length. The oak is there, in the form of vanilla, nuts, and mild spice, as is the butter, but these are complemented on the nose by a fruity, dry-Riesling-like cornucopia of apricot, pineapple, apple, yellow plum, and lemon, with replays of tropical and orchard fruit on the palate. What stands out, though, is the lemon-lime citrus, rich yet refreshing lemon meringue pie, the acid cutting through the thickness, along with a touch of minerality and then grapefruit pith on the finish. New World Chard near its very best.
3.5 Stars
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M. Gassier Nostre Pais Costières De Nîmes 2011
Rhône, France$22.95
This blend from the estimable Michel Gassier starts off with aromas of concentrated red berries before it reveals itself to be at one with its Southern Rhône (once Midi) origins. While it remains bright and fruity, the deeper complexity comes from notes of cassis, dried herbs, rocky minerality, white pepper, spice, and even a mild lactic element, the texture turning somewhat creamy, with an accent of fresh Provençal herbs emerging on the palette. Very much a wine that feels like it's from a geographic crossroads, which it is, mixing elegance and rusticity. A major success and fantastic value.
3.5 Stars
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Cave Spring Estate Bottled Chardonnay Musqué 2011, Cave Spring Vineyard, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$16.95
Chardonnay Musqué is a varietal clone Niagara does very well -- perhaps a defining varietal of the region -- and this example from Cave Spring shows just how good it can be. Crisp and clean, not least from fermenting in steel tanks, it features aromas and flavours of peach and lemongrass, a combination of stone and citrus fruit leading to pithy bitterness on the extended finish. But while refreshing, it's also substantial in the mouth, and overall it comes across like a pleasant mix of Riesling and Gewurz without the often cloying sweetness of the latter. An exceptional value, very well done.
3.5 Stars
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Trapiche Broquel Malbec 2011, Mendoza
Argentina$14.95
Argentinian Malbec in this price range tends to be more or less the same, favouring power over finesse, as if producers are trying too hard to impress, but this one distinguishes itself not just with astounding value but with impressive quality. With aromas of cinnamon and other baking spices, it feels like a fall/winter holiday wine, and rich notes of blackcurrant, dark berry, dried fruit, leather, spice, smoke, and, yes, Christmas pudding complete the package. It has the (dusty) tannins and acidity to warrant further aging, but while it can be a little rough now, it's a real standout already.
3.5 Stars
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Castello D'albola Riserva Chianti Classico 2008, Docg
Tuscany, Italy$24.95
Now at or near its peak, this is a lovely and especially food-friendly Chianti, elegant and restrained, perhaps too restrained, yet also juicy and widely appealing. There are complex herb, earth, leather, licorice, and spice notes, but the star is the attractive combination of cherry, raspberry, strawberry, and currant, a sweet-sour mix that works really well while reinforced by the darker, richer components. What keeps this from being a 90 is a slight bitterness on the finish as well as a certain lack of depth overall, but it's otherwise a very pleasant wine.
3.5 Stars
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San Pedro 1865 Single Vineyard Carmenère 2011, Maule Valley
Maule Valley, Chile$19.95
Given its herbal-vegetal characteristics, there are limits on how far Carmenere can go on its own, but this example from the Maule Valley is truly exceptional by any standard. The green pepper comes first, along with black pepper and faint wisps of smoke, but it's a deep, enveloping, multi-faceted note, and while the savoury elements are the primary ones, the rich and luscious fruit that emerges along with them -- currant, cherry, plum, cassis -- provides amazing balance and complexity. With a silky texture, lip-smacking finish, and excellent length, this is a great wine and a great value.
3.5 Stars
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Chåteau D'anglés Grand Vin 2008, Ac Languedoc La Clape
Languedoc, France$20.95
A whirlwind GSM -- good, then not good, then all over the place. It opens with a gorgeous blast of cassis, like a New World Cab, but then the Syrah takes over with black pepper and roasted meat atop cherry, raspberry, cola, and bitter herbs. Then the barnyard funk shows up, off-putting Mourvèdre notes that overwhelm. And you think, maybe it's done, gone for good. Until, with time, lots of time, the soft, warm Grenache helps to even things out with pillowy purple fruit. It eventually settles in as very good, with admirable complexity, good depth and length, and unresolved internal turmoil.
3.5 Stars
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Château Hanteillan 2010, Ac Haut Médoc
Bordeaux, France$19.95
Vibrantly fruity while also elegantly restrained, this superb-value Bordeaux has a brilliant nose of raspberry right from the start, with complexity emerging in the form of sweet plum, sour currant, earth, pepper, candle wax, and graphite minerality, the fascinating interplay of sweet and sour shining throughout, the length outstanding. If there's a fault, it's that it's a bit hollow mid-palette, but this is resolved somewhat with time in the open, and indeed it opens up a great deal. Still young and raw, tannins firm, there's room to mature, but even now it's a genuine pleasure to experience.
3.5 Stars
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