Michael Stickings
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Reviews (246)
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Reviews
Terre Di Talamo Tempo Morellino De Scansano 2012, Docg
Tuscany, Italy$18.25
Very typical of the region and the grape (100% Sangiovese), this has initial aromas of sour cherry and leather leading to rich, luscious blackberry and complex Italian savouriness characterized by notes of olive, tomato leaf, herbs, and roasted red pepper, with significant cherry and pomegranate tartness on the palate. With time, the nose retains a decent balance of the fruity and the savoury, but things really thin out on the palate, with barely any fruit to speak of and bitter herbs, largely flavourless, filling the vacuum. Given the initial appeal, a significant disappointment.
3.5 Stars
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Bischofliche Weingüter Trier Ayler Kupp Riesling Kabinett 2013, Prädikatswein
Mosel, Germany$23.95
A wonderful off-dry Kabinett from a single vineyard in the Saar. The nose is subdued but complex with apple, lemon, pineapple, green papaya, passion fruit, guava, apricot, mango, and petrol. These build on the palate, with an explosion of tropical fruit, along with the stone and orchard fruit, and a touch of slate. It's less minerally than other Mosel Rieslings, but there's still that extraordinary depth (even on a light frame) and balance that defines the region, the fleshy fruit complemented by zippy acidity, the many notes playing harmoniously through the long finish. Simply delicious.
3.5 Stars
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Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, Napa Valley
California, Usa$69.95
This is an impressively big, unabashedly bold, and, in its own way, undeniably amazing wine. It exhibits glorious Cabernet characteristics (balanced by the other Bordeaux varietals), led by sensational, head-spinning aromas of cassis, blackberry, blueberry, dark cherry, vanilla, chocolate, leather, pine, and cinnamon, with replays of ripe dark fruit and savoury wood on the palate, enormous concentration leading to a long and satisfying finish. The tannins are tight and the acids are intense, and so this needs a lot of time to settle down, but this is still a great wine with substantial upside.
3.5 Stars
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Graffigna Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Pedernal Valley, San Juan Province
Argentina$17.95
Gorgeous Cab at a great price; rich and smooth with luscious aromas and flavours of cassis and violet accented by subtle spice and smoke; excellent fruit-tannin balance.
3.5 Stars
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Warre’s Otima 10 Year Old Port, Douro Valley (500ml)
Douro, Portugal$17.90
A gorgeous rusty orange-brown flecked with deep crimson and raspberry red, this easygoing tawny offers aromas and flavours of raisin and other dried fruit, raspberry, orange, nutmeg, and buckwheat honey, with some bitterness on the finish. Given its youth, there's not really much depth to it, and so it's quite light on the palate, and the length is only so-so, as it dries out quickly, but while relatively simple and shallow, and so not much of a sipper on its own, it's not overly sweet and is pleasantly versatile with all sorts of dessert, and so quite nice for what it is, limitations and all.
3.5 Stars
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Château Des Charmes Viognier 2007, VQA St. David's Bench Vineyard, Niagara
Ontario, Canada$25.95
2004 vintage.
3.5 Stars
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Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2011, Wo Swartland
South Africa$13.95
Always an amazing value, this complex and balanced South African Syrah features a rich fruity core of cassis, blackberry, and dark cherry supported by complementary oak and mineral elements and defining spicy and smoky notes. It can be a bit rough and gritty in the mouth, with some grainy chocolate, but it's still eminently approachable even at a young age. Extremely well done, it's one of those all-purpose wines that goes well with food but can also stand on its own for frequent drinking.
3.5 Stars
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Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch Shiraz 2010, Strathbogie Ranges
Victoria, Australia$35.95
It's nice to come across an Aussie Shiraz that's more like a Syrah, savoury and restrained but pleasantly fruity as well. And this is just that, a combination of worlds old and new with ample fruit such as blackberry, cherry, plum, and redcurrant drenched in tons of black pepper (maybe too much) accented by garrigue and just a touch of meatiness. This is a wine that, if overly tart, admirably avoids excess, and while it goes well with food (as it says it was made for, specifically game), it's a really nice expression of the varietal on its own. It's just too bad it's way overpriced.
3.5 Stars
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Remo Farina Montecorna Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2010, Doc
Veneto, Italy$19.95
Decent, unflashy ripasso with warm cinnamon-spice notes, as well as old-world leather, and well-integrated tannins; nicely balanced with a medium finish, just not terribly memorable.
3.5 Stars
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Domaine Chofflet Valdenaire Givry 2009, Ac
Burgundy, France$26.95
Sadly, something just seems wrong here. Hopefully it's the bottle, not the wine itself. You get a sense of the rich earthiness and cherry and cranberry fruit, with some black pepper and baking spice as well, but the dominant note is an awful band-aid funkiness that just makes this undrinkable, and it doesn't go away, with the colour a rusty brown-red. It may simply be a solid Pinot well past its prime, but after just six years one hardly expects such decay, and the reputation and reviews certainly suggest much better.
3.5 Stars
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