Michael Stickings
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Reviews (246)
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Reviews
Emiliana Novas Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2013
Maipo Valley, Chile$15.95
Emiliana's organic Novas range is great value, but this Cab-Merlot blend is also really good regardless. It's somewhat rough now, in its youth, but the elements are all there, with a sweet, buttery nose and notes of cassis, blackberry, raspberry, plum, graphite, and mint, enough savoury goodness to offset the sweet fruit. It lacks depth on the palate, it's a touch bitter on the finish, and it's just too coarse overall (if quite a bit smoother and softer by the second day), but this is a very fine effort nonetheless, yet more proof that high-quality wine can carry a very reasonable price tag.
3.5 Stars
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Herdade Do Portocarro 2010, Torrão, Vinho Regional Península De Setúbal
Portugal$12.75
This interesting blend is all over the place -- lean then soft, basic then complex, shallow then rich. The nose is very nice, with fresh cherry, dark berries, raisin, cured meat, herbs, and black pepper, but on the palate it's subdued, mostly dried fruit and wood -- quite bland, actually. But there's also a refreshing tartness that peaks out here and there, and while there isn't much depth, and while the bland flavours end abruptly, there are lingering notes, with impressive length, that suggest an almost port-like quality. Interesting, with a lot going on, but frustratingly inconsistent.
3.5 Stars
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Tormaresca Trentangeli 2012, Doc Castel Del Monte
Puglia, Italy$19.95
This Aglianico blend opens with a blast of dark berries and other dark fruit, led by Cab-based cassis, but then turns overly tart, cranberry-pomegranate on the nose and excessive acidity on the palate. But then, stability, the fruit achieving balance, supported by earthy, spicy, and herbal notes. Given the fruit depth, high acidity, and prominent tannins, this would benefit from further aging and softening, but, even now, what really stands out is the wonderful, characteristically southern Italian metallic iron streak that acts as the true backbone of this enormously appealing "Super Puglian."
3.5 Stars
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Les Trois Couronnes 2014, Crozes Hermitage
Rhône, France$8.25
A solid value, this 100% Syrah from the northern Rhône is thin on the palate, with bland wood leading to some bitterness on the finish, but the nose is quite good with characteristic notes of black pepper (loads and loads of it) and cured/smoked meat at the core surrounded by blackberry, violet, and licorice, with a certain lactic thickness provided by notes of heavy cream and marshmallow. More savoury than fruity, it's dry yet easygoing and drinking very well even so young (if given time to open up), with soft tannins and enough acidity to balance the savouriness, particularly with food.
3.5 Stars
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Layers Shiraz/Tempranillo/Mourvèdre/Grenache 2012, Barossa, South Australia
South Australia, Australia$17.95
Balance, elegance, complexity. This blend offers aromas and flavours of blackberry, raspberry, cherry, redcurrant, earth, black pepper, wild herbs, licorice, and cured meat, and it's like a happy marriage between southern France and northeastern Spain (without the imposing Rioja oak and Rhône/Midi funk), Tempranillo tartness lifting up the earthier, denser GSM to a level of delicate stability. What really stands out, though, is just how admirably restrained and understated this blend is, a far cry from stereotypical Aussie reds (and Shirazes in particular). It's also a fantastic value.
3.5 Stars
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Domaines Schlumberger Les Princes Abbés Pinot Gris 2014, Ac Alsace
Alsace, France$23.95
This takes a while to open up, but when it finally does it delivers a pleasant nose of white flowers and orchard fruit and subdued flavours of apple, pear, apricot, and lemon, with some citrus zest and pith livening things up a bit on the back end, as well as a very light mineral streak (perhaps derived from the volcanic terroir). It's dry and certainly refreshing with food, restrained and unobtrusive, and it's actually quite nice to encounter a Pinot Gris, in contrast to the more common Pinot Grigio, that keeps its fruity sweetness in check. Fine overall, if lacking anything truly distinctive.
3.5 Stars
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Edmeades Zinfandel 2013, Mendocino County
California, Usa$23.95
This packs a ton of flavour and impressive depth and concentration into a controlled structure without ever seeming excessive, unlike so much Zinfandel. On the nose, it presents notes of chocolate, coffee, maple / French toast, and light baking spice, but there's ample fruit as well (dark berries, plums, cherries), while on the palate there's an additional buttery note. It's quite sweet, and rather hot, and there's no denying how rich and texturally luscious this is, but there's enough control to keep everything from turning into jam or soup. A Zin that delivers everything a Zin should.
3.5 Stars
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Santa Duc Roaix Les Crottes 2010, Ac Côtes Du Rhône Villages
Rhône, France$17.25
This Grenache-Syrah blend (80/20) just screams southern Rhône, with its bretty, animal funk floating atop dense dark baked and stewed fruit (berries, cherries, figs), pepper, roasted meat, and earth. It's actually remarkably dense, with deep, concentrated flavours swimming in a thick, grainy, rustic texture. For the price, this is even more remarkable, but really, for all that character, this is a wine lacking finesse and balance, and at this point in its evolution also acidic freshness, and while the fruit ends up collapsing into a puddle, what's left is mostly that excessive bretty cover.
3.5 Stars
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Mas Des Bressades Cuvée Tradition Rosé 2015, Ap Costières De Nîmes
Rhône, France$16.95
A blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault, this accessible but serious rosé admirably showcases both fruity and savoury elements, with strawberry, raspberry, and cherry complemented by rhubarb, pepper, and herbs (of the local variety, but there's a faint hint of marijuana as well), and meatiness from the Syrah. It's dry, with nice structure, and there's an orange-grapefruit element that provides both acidity and closing bitterness (meshing with the red-orange hue). Despite the dryness, there's an unfortunate confectionary quality that emerges on the palate. Still awfully good for what it is.
3.5 Stars
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Gérard Bertrand Saint Chinian Syrah/Mourvèdre 2009, Ac
Languedoc, France$18.95
A disappointing effort from a very good producer, this lean, mean, and severe Syrah-Mourvedre blend has a dominant bretty element that never gives way to anything else. There's some mature complexity here, with earthy, leathery notes accompanying the funk, along with smoked meat near the end, but it's only the cranberry-raspberry-currant tartness, appearing at the edges and then on the finish, that ever emerges with any conviction. It seems like there's a lot going on that wants out, but the lack of depth on the palette makes the wine seem insipid while the chalky texture does nothing to help.
3.0 Stars
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