Neil Phillips
Reviews
Domaine De Vieux Télégraphe Télégramme Châteauneuf Du Pape 2012, Ac
Rhône, France$55.95
The second label (and physically one of the most distinctive and playful out there, at that) from Vignobles Brunier, this CdP is more Gamay-strong than their famed La Crau. While predominantly from their "newer" vines, none are less than 20 years in this case.
Classic nose of crushed black pepper nose, cigar box, spruce (medicinal), grilled meat, and a floral upper note. There is a lot going on, but overall a "lighter" nose than expected.
On the palate, heavier spice notes, not just pepper but anise, herbs, cranberry, crabapple and cherry. Warm and spicy (and almost medicinal) on the finish, but not overly so: this is well integrated. More savoury than ripe fruit in overall flavor profile.
While the winery suggests drinking these young, that has to be put in the context of La Crau. I would age this up to perhaps ten years.
Tasted May 2015.
Summerhill Pyramid Winery Cipes Brut, BC VQA Okanagan Valley
British Columbia, Canada$34.60
Cipes is a blend of Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc.
Nose of golden delicious and Granny Smith apples, pear, brioche, Meyer lemon zest.
On the palate, lemony citrus zest mingles with the apples. Notes of white nectarine comes through on continued drinking. The time on lees brings added depth of bread notes, white mushrooms. Vibrant acidity, fine mousse, however a nice creamy mouthfeel as well.
As not bone-dry, this is delightful on its own, but will pair nicely with many foods - lemon roast chicken with herbs comes to mind.
Fairly complex for this price point - a winner!
Oct 2016
Deutz Brut Classic
France$54.95
Intriguing nose which, to me, had some essence of lime zest making its way through traditional brioche, dried apricot, golden delicious apple, flinty note. All were harmonious, yet restrained.
On the palate, nice acidity and flavours following the nose. Restrained and yeasty, resembling an apple tart fresh from the oven. Lemon and slate on the medium+ finish. Nice balanced acidity.
Tasted January 2017.
Joie Farm A Noble Blend 2014, BC VQA Okanagan Valley
British Columbia, Canada$23.95
This wine is consistently a delight.
Made in the Alsace Edelzwicker or “noble blend” style, it’s an amalgam of Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Auxerrois and Schoenberger. While those first three can make stunning single-varietal wines, this blend is a stunner.
Nose of honey, white flowers, chamomile, white pepper, star anise, lychee, luscious pear.
On the palate, almond and spicy minerality run through the fruit-laden mid-palate. Unctuous mouth-feel, with a slightly oily long finish. Complex.
I’d like to see how this might develop in a few years - but always finish my stock!
Thirty Bench Riesling 2014, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Ontario, Canada$22.95
Thirty Bench Riesling is always a delight.
Great citrus lemon nose, mandarin zest, mineral notes.
On the palate, great acidity through a long finish. Citrus abounds, with white grapefruit playing a role. Love the complex mineral notes.
Tasted November 2015.
Thirty Bench Small Lot Gewurztraminer 2013, VQA Beamsville Bench
Ontario, Canada$30.00
Fragrant nose of honeycomb, ripe apricot, Turkish delight, Nivea.
Creamy on the palate, very slight residual sugar. Almond, apricot/pear, this sings of the Levant.
Finishes long and restrained.
Another fine Gewurz from Emma and the Thirty Bench team.
Tasted February 2017.
Blue Mountain Gold Label Brut Sparkling, Traditional Method, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
British Columbia, Canada$29.25
One of Canada's finest - and consistent - sparklers.
This recent tasting was the 2010, disgorged March 2013.
Great persistent bubbles, not quite fine in size. Light golden yellow colour.
On the nose, heaps of apple with wild strawberry and a hint of lime.
On the palate, apple remains, a dance of both green apple and red delicious - the latter lending a "sweet" perception to this dry wine. The citrus is there too, with great acidic balance. Yeasty notes were faint.
Finish is medium-plus in length, and mousse never stopped. Great value!
Château Roubine La Vie En Rose Rosé 2017, Ac Côtes De Provence
Provence, France$15.75
Medium-salmon hue, a little more colour than the current pale-as-ever craze.
Floral gardenia nose with barely-ripe strawberries.
On the palate, lots of minerality and a (pleasant) bitter almond mid-palate; white & pink peppercorns, candied Mandarin peel. Nice body.
Tasted November 2018.
Joiefarm Ptg 2015, Okanagan Valley
British Columbia, Canada$26.00
An intriguing blend (Pinot Noir & Gamay) you don't often see outside Beaujolais - and certainly not in Canada. The ever-reliable Joie Farm does this proud, consistently...
This year's is a little spicier from past memories. Nose of brambles, cherry, sage, dried cranberry, rhubarb, pepper, and a hint of Chinese five spice.
Medium in weight this year, with a vibrant acidity and depth of flavour. Bright tart cherry on the palate, spicy and herbaceous through the finish.
Versatile on its own, but ideal with food.
Tasted February 2018.
Château Des Muraires L'excellence Rosé 2017, Ac Côtes De Provence
Provence, France$33.25
Very Provencal pale salmon colour.
Restrained on the nose, with hints of wild strawberries and honeysuckle.
More weight on the palate, great acidity and long finish with a nice, enveloping viscous mouthfeel. Nibs, tart cherry, and a hint of fresh green herbs (slight dill?). Tart red fruit notes linger forever.
Tasted August 2018.