Neil Phillips
Reviews
Masi Costasera Amarone Classico 2011
Veneto, Italy$45.00
Lots going on right from the nose, which features black plums, raisins, black mushrooms, white pepper, earth, smoke, vanilla, leather, meaty notes and a savoury undertone.
On the palate, off-dry but held nicely with acid and alcohol. All those stewed black fruits and raisins are front and centre as you'd expect, with a savoury finish that goes on for a long time.
Beautifully balanced, while drinking well now, this will definitely age further.
Tasted October 2016.
Domaine De Mouscaillo Limoux 2010
Languedoc, France$23.85
Made predominantly from Chardonnay. Zero dosage, this “brut nature” bubbly is bracingly dry – just the thing to whet the appetite and accompany pre-meal nibbles. This featured a bright nose of green apples and lemon, with a medium-fine bead. On the palate, green apples were most evident, with an undertone of golden delicious providing a second layer, with a hint of freshly baked baguette. Crisp and refreshing, with a citrus finish.
Tasted December 2014 (NV).
Château Fuissé Pouilly Fuissé Tête De Cru 2008
Burgundy, France$36.75
This is a blend of grapes from over 20 vineyard sites, vinified separately to make the “top blend”.
Light golden in colour, with notes of white flowers, almond, honeysuckle and light caramel. On the palate, luscious in the mouth, with bitter almond, citrus, and a medium-plus finish.
Tasted December 2014.
Domaine Les Yeuses Les épices Syrah 2012, Igp Pays D'oc
Languedoc, France$15.95
Dark and brooding on the nose, there's more meat, smoke and grilled Portobello mushrooms than pepper (though it's there). All that overlays dark blackberries and plums, with a nice spicy garrigue and moss. There's a lot going on in the nose here.
On the palate, surprisingly nimble after an extra year in bottle. Chalky but smoothing tannins, cured meats on the finish. The 13.5%ABV makes this a moderate-weight wine as well; lots of flavour without the alcohol heft, but perfectly in balance.
Stunning at the price: great value. But decidedly a style not for everyone.
Tasted October 2015.
Rosewood Select Semillon 2013, VQA Beamsville Bench
Ontario, Canada$18.00
The last year of this estate's wine, the vines being destroyed by the harsh winter, and remaining few pulled to make way for Gamay Noir.
A shame, as you don't see this in the region much - and this is a stellar example.
Intense aromas include white stone fruits, apple, but also an herbal note.
On the palate, slightly creamy mouthfeel and great minerality. Apple, gooseberry, tart white peach, lemon finish.
If you can, get a few bottles and try aging.
Tasted June 2015.
Blue Mountain Pinot Gris 2013, Okanagan Valley
British Columbia, Canada$21.00
BC is making a name for itself with Pinot Gris, and with this iteration, it's easy to see why.
Fermented separately in stainless steel and French oak and then blended, this wine retains a crisp acidity and added complexity from barrel.
Notes of white peach, honeysuckle, orange peel, slight herbs and flint.
On the palate, almonds, Meyer lemon, and a creamy mouthfeel. Long finish that ends in a slight medicinal note.
This should age well.
Tasted May 2015.
Ken Forrester Reserve Chenin Blanc 2012, Wo
Stellenbosch, South Africa$19.85
I found this muted at first nosing, with an austere minerality and unripe green grapes - but after a bit of time it really opened up. (Perhaps initially served a tad cold.)
Honey, chamomile, white flowers, orange peel, light caramel.
Crisp lemon & lime on the palate, only slightly creamy, with hints of marzipan, almond.
Medium finish, the acid is perfectly balanced.
Tasted June 2014. Great buy.
Saint Clair Pioneer Block 16 Awatere Valley Pinot Noir 2012
Marlborough, New Zealand$33.95
On the nose: tart cherry, wild strawberry, red plum, dried cranberry, mushroom, dill, white pepper, hint of smoke, cedar.
Similar red fruit flavours, nicely balanced medium levels of acid, tannins and alcohol.
Tasted November 2016.
Frescobaldi Castelgiocondo Brunello Di Montalcino 2004
Tuscany, Italy$49.95
Nose of vanilla, charred cedar, spiced dark cherries, dried sage, mushrooms, Cherry Bols, and a hint of floral (muted after more than a decade, but still there).
Meaty on the palate, with the fruit mingling in a subdued way with herbs. This is a complex old-world wine, with an earthy note that finishes long. Acid is beautifully in check, and tannins, while medium+, hold all together but aren't chewy. While 100% Sangiovese - this is a long way from Chianti.
Begs for braised meats, truffle pasta.
Tasted May 2015.