Michael Stickings
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Reviews (246)
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Reviews
Feudi Salentini Luporano Primitivo Del Tarantino 2012, Igp
Puglia, Italy$17.95
With its bold aromas of blueberry, blackberry, and dark cherry, this Primitivo-Aglianico blend from Puglia is certainly similar to any old BBQ-friendly Zinfandel, and it's good enough in that regard. What it brings in addition, though, is restraint, complexity, and savouriness often not found in those in-your-face summer wines. Indeed, there's a lovely underlying earthiness here, combined with herbal and woody elements, red licorice, and buttery creaminess, all presented in a nicely structured package. It's not elegant, but it's a flavourful effort that shows what Primitivo can achieve.
3.0 Stars
(0)V
Château Saint Roch Chimères 2011, Ac Côtes Du Roussillon Villages
Languedoc, France$19.95
Overly alcoholic, lacking structure, and a bit syrupy, this Grenache-Syrah-Carignan blend from the Côtes du Roussillon, not far from the Spanish border, nonetheless reflects well its rugged, rocky, schistous terroir. Mineral notes certainly drive the overall aroma and flavour, but there's quite a lot of pleasant fruit as well, including plum, blueberry, raspberry, redcurrant, and black cherry, along with black pepper and herbs. A solid value overall, very tasty despite its flaws.
3.0 Stars
(0)V
Gérard Bertrand Grand Terroir Pic Saint Loup 2011, Ap Coteaux Du Languedoc
Languedoc, France$18.95
The best word for this outstanding Rhone-style blend is "harmonious," with its parts fitting together into a complex reflection of the essence of southern France; there's the familiar garrigue that is so much of the terroir, but the notes are many, including savoury olive, herb, black tea, licorice, and black pepper, fruity blueberry, raspberry, black cherry, and plum, and rocky minerality on the palette, all remarkably well-integrated with the tannic backbone; even more remarkable is the unifying rustic elegance preventing the richness from overwhelming the subtleties; extremely well done.
3.0 Stars
(0)V
Castaño Solanera Viñas Viejas 2012, Do Yecla
Spain$16.95
Here's a wonderfully deep, rich, and complex Monastrell-dominant blend with heady aromas of raspberry and black pepper broadening out into pencil/graphite, earth/barnyard, blueberry, dark cherry, and candle wax, then cherry tartness on the finish before the prominent tannins take over; admirably harmonious, but it does start to come apart after awhile, and while youthful and vibrant, it could probably use another couple of years for better overall integration beyond the alluring nose; still, another great value from Yecla, home to so many great values, and a very fine effort indeed.
3.0 Stars
(0)V
Innocent Bystander Pinot Noir 2012, Yarra Valley
Victoria, Australia$21.95
A solid medium-bodied Pinot tucked in nicely between the austere Burgundian archetype and the more luscious Californian versions; vibrant fruit dominating the nose, balsamic strawberry along with sour cherry and some plum, with spicy earthiness in the background and a hint of candle wax; quite satiny in the mouth, with sufficient tannic structure; not terribly complex and certainly not profound, but overall a pleasant and well-balanced affair.
3.0 Stars
(0)V
Barahonda Barrica Monastrell/Syrah 2011, Do Yecla
Spain$17.95
Another good value from Yecla, this lush Monastrell-Syrah blend is rich and flavourful if not exactly profound. There isn't much structure, it doesn't hold together for long, and with a thick mouthfeel it comes across like a red-purple fruit smoothie, but the aromas and flavours of dark cherry, raspberry, blueberry, and spice, along with a certain earthiness and meatiness in the background, are certainly enticing. Comparisons to Australian Shiraz are apt, though this lacks elegance and sophistication even if it mirrors the fruit-forwardness.
3.0 Stars
(0)V
Viña Tarapacá Gran Reserva Carmenère 2012, Maipo Valley
Maipo Valley, Chile$17.95
This is delicious, textbook Carmenère. The alluring aromas are complex and multi-layered, with fresh butter, cured and roasted meat, dark purple fruit, black pepper, oak, oregano, and candle wax, and the fantastic sweet-savoury combination deepens on the palate with the introduction of characteristic green pepper, which becomes more and more prominent without ever overwhelming, more Italian herbs, and additional creamy lactic elements. With this flavour profile, amplified by excellent length and structural balance, it's a gorgeously rich expression of one of Chile's signature grapes.
3.0 Stars
(0)V
Carmen Gran Reserva Carmenere El Penasco Vineyard 2012, Valle Del Rapel
Chile$17.95
This quite dense Gran Reserva lacks depth and complexity but is very flavourful nonetheless with an aromatic array of raspberry, plum, black pepper, tobacco, leather, and, more subtly, green pepper. Intriguingly, this array starts off smoky, then turns peppery, then minty, and then sweetness floods the palate, at least initially. Meaty notes develop with time, while the fruit dries up, and unfortunately it thins out through to the dry, chalky finish. It's fine overall, if not left for too long, when the soft, luscious fruit is still around.
3.0 Stars
(0)A
Gérard Bertrand Grand Terroir Tautavel 2011, Ac Côtes Du Roussillon Villages
Languedoc, France$18.45
From rocky, sun-drenched Tautavel, in Roussillon, this brings ripe blackberry, raspberry, and dark cherry joined by characteristic earth and garrigue, as well as olive, mint, and, most notably, a fabulous mineral streak uniting these disparate elements through the long finish. An initial ascetic whiff departs quickly, leaving the rustic essence of the Midi to shine, chalky texture, muddled flavours, rough edges, and all. But Bertrand brings elegance too, as usual, a sense of proportion, and this is what lifts this authentic "Grand Terroir," one of his best, well above the regional norm.
3.0 Stars
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Saint Roch Vielles Vignes Grenache Blanc/Marsanne 2013, Côtes Du Roussillon
Languedoc, France$16.95
This is a fairly simple Grenache Blanc-Marsanne blend from Roussillon, lightly-coloured with a certain aromatic austerity followed up by soft, rounded juiciness in the mouth. The flavours are mostly a combination of tart apple and lemon mixed with pear, but it's the rocky minerality that stands out and speaks to the schistous soil of the region. Light and refreshing, it isn't necessarily what one would expect given the generally rough, rustic reds of the area, but it's quite pleasant indeed, not to mention an excellent value.
3.0 Stars
(0)V