Michael Stickings
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Reviews (246)
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Reviews
Antichi Vinai Il Mascalese Nerello Mascalese 2013, Igt Terre Siciliane
Sicily, Italy$13.75
Remarkably light in colour and body, this has pleasingly dense aromas of strawberry, raspberry, cherry, earth, baking spice, and black pepper, with notions of florality and some smokiness hovering about. The production allows the Nerello varietal to speak for itself without the weight of wood or artifice, but there's a basic roughness to it that comes through on the palate, especially with the fruit thinning out. But what's more distinct on the palate is the electric acidity -- too much of it, and this could use some time to calm down a bit. Still, an interesting diversion at the very least.
3.0 Stars
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3.0 Stars
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Chivite Gran Feudo Reserva 2001, Navarra, Spain
Spain$16.95
Certainly well-aged, with a red-brown colour; aromas of leather and dried fruit lifted up by balsamic strawberry, deep but also vibrant; really opened up by second day with richness of cigar box and tobacco; quite elegant and sophisticated, with good tannic structure.
3.0 Stars
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Balbas Reserva 2001, Do Ribera Del Duero
Ribera Del Duero, Spain$20.95
Yes, hard to believe this is a 2001, given its fruity vibrancy and deep purple colour, but there are certainly signs of serious aging in the leather, fig, plum, raspberry, earth, and slightly funky notes that come later; before that, the inviting aroma of creamy brown butter dominates, supported by rich dark fruit like cassis, as well as vanilla; there's a bit of bitterness on the finish, along with youthful tannins that demand further maturing, but once this opens up after at least an hour, there's ample complexity for contemplative enjoyment. Tasted September 2014.
3.0 Stars
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3.0 Stars
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Abad Dom Bueno Mencía 2008, Do Bierzo
Galicia, Spain$16.95
The '08 isn't nearly as good as the '06 Crianza, even if it isn't a bad example of the Mencia grape in its own right. It opens promisingly with violets and seemingly the full spectrum of purple and black fruit, particularly cassis, along with a heavy dose of sweet vanilla cream, oak, and mild baking spice, and it's all quite luscious, sweet but balanced, similar to the '06, but the richness isn't sustained. The wood takes over while the fruit turns to the dried, leathery, raisiny variety, the flavours thin out, and the finish is somewhat bitter. A fine value, but don't let it sit too long.
3.0 Stars
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Borsao Tres Picos Garnacha 2010, Do Campo De Borja
Spain$19.95
There's complex and then there's all-over-the-place, there's luscious and then there's syrupy, and this forced, overdone Garnacha is the latter of both; full and rich, and nicely fragrant, with a ton of vanilla and oak, along with dark fruit, leather, winter spice, and, later, bretty earthiness, but lacking finesse and unity; very dry on the finish, but at times it's like drinking a gooey raspberry candy despite the presence of interesting possibilities, the whole less than the sum of its parts.
3.0 Stars
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Château Siaurac 2006, Lalande De Pomerol
Bordeaux, France$46.95
Huge discrepancy between nose and palette, with lovely fragrant aromas of buttery red fruit, peppery balsamic strawberries, and milk chocolate leading to an unpleasantly dry, astringent mouthfeel and thin flavours; just not much there, and nothing really opens up.
3.0 Stars
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Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Marlborough
Marlborough, New Zealand$19.05
Just like Whitehaven's Pinot Noir, this is pretty much exactly what a good, solid Sauvignon Blanc (particularly from New Zealand) is meant to be, sprightly and flavourful without crossing the line into artifice. There's the usual gooseberry and passionfruit, but also a lovely touch of pineapple as well as some herbal notes. Nothing terribly distinctive here, but it's a very fine example of the varietal.
3.0 Stars
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Graffigna Grand Reserve Malbec 2010
San Juan, Argentina$17.95
A fine, if generally unimpressive Malbec; deep purple colour with notes of violets and rich purple and dried fruit somewhat hidden behind overly prominent oakiness, leading to quick drying in the mouth after a burst of sweetness; enjoyable, on the whole, but without distinction.
3.0 Stars
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