Michael Stickings
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Reviews (246)
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Reviews
Abad Dom Bueno Mencía 2008, Do Bierzo
Galicia, Spain$16.95
The '08 isn't nearly as good as the '06 Crianza, even if it isn't a bad example of the Mencia grape in its own right. It opens promisingly with violets and seemingly the full spectrum of purple and black fruit, particularly cassis, along with a heavy dose of sweet vanilla cream, oak, and mild baking spice, and it's all quite luscious, sweet but balanced, similar to the '06, but the richness isn't sustained. The wood takes over while the fruit turns to the dried, leathery, raisiny variety, the flavours thin out, and the finish is somewhat bitter. A fine value, but don't let it sit too long.
3.0 Stars
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Château Siaurac 2006, Lalande De Pomerol
Bordeaux, France$46.95
Huge discrepancy between nose and palette, with lovely fragrant aromas of buttery red fruit, peppery balsamic strawberries, and milk chocolate leading to an unpleasantly dry, astringent mouthfeel and thin flavours; just not much there, and nothing really opens up.
3.0 Stars
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Graffigna Grand Reserve Malbec 2010
San Juan, Argentina$17.95
A fine, if generally unimpressive Malbec; deep purple colour with notes of violets and rich purple and dried fruit somewhat hidden behind overly prominent oakiness, leading to quick drying in the mouth after a burst of sweetness; enjoyable, on the whole, but without distinction.
3.0 Stars
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Palacios Remondo La Vendimia 2012, Doca Rioja
Rioja, Spain$16.95
There's something vibrantly modern about this Rioja blend from Alvaro Palacios, with its intriguing and complex nose of vanilla, plum, cherry, strawberries bathed in balsamic vinegar, and butter, and if that were it, it would be very good indeed. Unfortunately, what dominates the palette is a tinny, metallic bitterness that is rather unpleasant, and while that bitterness dissipates a great deal by the second day, it never quite leaves the scene. It's all over the place, but it has enough to satisfy, especially with food, particularly for the price.
3.0 Stars
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Breca Old Vines Garnacha 2010, Do Calatayud
Aragón, Spain$19.95
Sporting a huge Parker rating (94), this heavy-bottled Garnacha is certainly not without its appeal. Soft and luscious yet structured, it opens with inviting aromas of blueberry, dark cherry, mocha, and baking spice, successfully balancing the vibrant fruit and oak-infused elements. But within an hour or so the fruit goes the way of Keyser Söze, poof, and what's left is raisin/prune juice and oak, offset with vanilla, thinning out rapidly, bitterness and chalky tannins on the finish. Certainly not a 94, not even close, it's a decent if hardly amazing wine that's fine if you drink it right away.
3.0 Stars
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Beso De Vino Seleccion Red 2014
Aragón, Spain$9.95
There's nothing really special about this ripe Spanish red other than its price, but the price makes it an excellent value; it's certainly overbaked, but the nose is quite pleasant, with notes of dried and baked fruit along with tangy blueberry and hints of leather and spice; it's less pleasant in the mouth, where the lack of depth comes through and the raisin/prune jamminess gives way to the bitter, drying tannins that come on fast and furious, but while the parts don't really hold together, and while it fades into a certain flatness not long after opening, it's hard to argue with the QPR.
3.0 Stars
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Domini De La Cartoixa Formiga De Galena 2009
Priorat, Spain$25.95
There's definite sophistication to this Garnacha-Carinena-Syrah blend from Priorat, but there's also a sense in which the fruit components fail to hold together and seem at odds with one another. The initial nose is dried fruit, raisin and prune, and while that lingers, fresher aromas and flavours emerge later, including cherry and red berries, with some spice and wood in the background. The harmony comes and goes, and while there's good complexity and nuance here, the integration isn't entirely successful. A good value for Priorat, and an intriguing effort, but not a great value overall.
3.0 Stars
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Château La Verrière 2010, Ac Bordeaux Supérieur
Bordeaux, France$15.95
Alas, in Bordeaux, not all 2010s are great. Some are just good, and some, like this one, are just barely passable, even at the fairly low price. It opens with pleasant raspberry, plum, and blackcurrant, very much of the place, but the fruit soon gives way to oak and more oak, with some pepper spice, earth, chocolate, and graphite. The Merlot provides softness, the Cab structure, but while the nose remains enticing, it drinks like thin oak juice, the fruit thoroughly gone, through to bitterness on the finish. Basically, there's just not much here.
3.0 Stars
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Château De Gaudou Renaissance Cuvée Boisée 2010, Ac Cahors
Southwest, France$22.95
Still quite rough, this 100% Malbec is dominated by oak, which is no surprise given that it's labelled a "boisée." But the wood brings depth and complexity, including vanilla, cinnamon, and other warming baking spices, while the rich fruit shines with cassis, blackberry, raisin, dried fig, and ripe and tart cherry. There's only so-so length, and the finish turns tannic and bitter, but it really softens up with time in the open, which is a must, and that time brings impressive rewards. It may lack refinement, but it's a fine example of a big and rustic red from a less-heralded part of France.
3.0 Stars
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Dante Robino Bonarda 2011
Mendoza, Argentina$14.95
A decent if generally unremarkable Bonarda, though with many of the characteristics that make the varietal so popular these days; lovely, if overly candy-ish, aromas of strawberry and cherry, bathed in chocolate, rich and deep but also approachable, followed by fullness in the mouth with a soft, round, velvety texture and some lingering tartness; the flavours dissipate rather quickly, leaving a sudden and somewhat overwhelming tannic dryness; there's better Bonarda within this comfortable price range, but this is nonetheless good value for a decent effort.
3.0 Stars
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