Campania Stories 2026 – Part Two

Part Two: Buyer’s Guide to Campanian Sparkling and Whites – By John Szabo MS

The Reggia di Caserta, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a universal symbol of Campania’s historical and cultural grandeur, played host to the opening of the 2026 edition of Campania Stories, the presentation of new vintages from the region’s main appellations to national and international specialized press.

I tasted over two hundred wines over the course of a few days in the region this spring, both during winery visits and especially during the sit-down technical tastings organized by Miriade & Partners, the team behind Campania Stories.

In part one of this two-part series I take an in-depth look at three rather rare, ancient Campanian varieties: Pallagrello Bianco, Pallagrello Nero, and Casavecchia, which were a focus of mine on this particular journey.

See Part One: Spotlight on Caserta and native Pallagrello Bianco, Pallagrello Nero, and Casavecchia and Buyer’s Guide to Red and Rosato

Part two features the top sparkling and white wines tasted during this recent visit, all 90+ point wines

Jump to the Buyer’s Guide Part Two:

Sparkling
Falanghina
Fiano
Greco
Other White
White Blends

Sparkling

92 Masseria Piccirillo Prima Gioia Brut 2022, Vino da Tavola

Piccirillo was the first, and still only, producer of traditional-method sparkling wine in Caserta from pure pallagrello bianco, with this 2022 disgorged in December 2025. Properly lean and sharp, surprisingly fresh and light for a 2022, brut nature, with the lovely herbal-green character of the variety. Acids are comfortable and the autolysis character is moderate, leaving freshness and fruit to drive the profile. I’d wait for a later-disgorged version to emerge – the stuffing is there and this is Picirillo’s best spumante to date, just needs time.  Zero dosage (0 g/l), approximately 36 months on the lees. Tasted April 2026.

91 Casa Setaro Pietrafumante 2023, Spumante Caprettone Metodo Classico Millesimato

Smoky and leesy in the autolytic fashion, Setaro’s latest bottling of Pietrafumante (“smoking stone”) is a mature and deeply flavoured example, saline and sapid to a high degree, with more brusque temperament than typical limestone sparklings, but characterful and quality all the same. Length and depth are very good. 100% caprettone from volcanic soils on the slopes of Vesuvius, spending a minimum of 30 months on the lees before disgorgement. Drink or hold short/mid-term. Tasted April 2026.

91 Masseria Piccirillo Prima Gioia Brut 2019, Vino da Tavola

Disgorged October 2025, 6 years on the lees, and now starting to get autolytic, comfortably so — creamy-leesy, at the right state of evolution, though the 2022 is a more precise wine and just needs another couple of years on the lees to reach full maturity. 100% pallagrello bianco; traditional method. Tasted April 2026.

90 MARTUSCIELLO SALVATORE Ottouve 2025, Penisola DOC Sorrentina Gragnano

The 2025 vintage of this dry red sparkling old-vine field blend is clean and highly fragrant, floral, boisterously fruity, brimming with fresh raspberry fruit, red and black cherries, irises and violets, carnations and fruit pastilles. It’s dry and crisp on the palate, gently effervescent, very pretty in the end. A wine to drink young and fresh, well chilled. Gragnano DOC requires a minimum of 60% piedirosso, with sciascinoso and aglianico permitted; this bottling is a field blend of indigenous Sorrentine varieties from old vines. Tasted April 2026.

Falanghina

93 Agnanum Sabbia Vulcanica 2025, Campania IGT Falanghina

A lightly sulphury, open and fragrant, fully fresh and citrus-driven falanghina flegrea from volcanic sands — super aromatic, almost tropical, but in a contained and saline way. There’s fine depth and density here, genuine concentration and excellent length. A perfumed and stylish, honest example, best over the near term. 100% falanghina flegrea from ungrafted vines grown on the volcanic sands (sabbia vulcanica) of the Campi Flegrei at around 50 metres; the sandy soils provide natural phylloxera immunity. Tasted April 2026.

93 Contrada Salandra 2025, Falanghina Campi Flegrei

Open, fresh, good precision. Lovely acids and high salinity. A terrific vintage, looking forward to the full release. Tank sample to be bottled in July. 9 euros ex-cellar. 100% falanghina flegrea from Contrada Salandra’s estate vineyards in the Campi Flegrei, grown on volcanic soils at around 100 metres. Tasted April 2026.

93 Contrada Salandra 2022, Falanghina Campi Flegrei

Fine aromatics here, developing but still fresh, particularly floral. The palate is rich but lively, well balanced, sapid, long. A beautiful vintage indeed, drinking well now. A warm, high-yielding year, but you wouldn’t guess it. 100% falanghina flegrea from the Campi Flegrei. Tasted April 2026.

92 Contrada Salandra 2006, Falanghina Campi Flegrei

Medium gold in colour, certainly mature and honeyed on the nose, with dried yellow flowers, buckwheat flour, dried lemon zest, sweet and savoury dried herbs — a fascinating range. The palate is round and silky, creamy smooth. Honeyed, fresh coffee-bean finish. Holding on admirably, with energy and pitch. 100% falanghina flegrea, now some 20 years old. A remarkable demonstration of the ageing potential of this often underestimated variety from volcanic terroir. Tasted April 2026.

91 VILLA MATILDE AVALLONE Vigna Caracci 2020, Falerno del Massico DOC Bianco

Elegant and complex aromatics here on Villa Matilde’s premium white Falerno del Massico, with an integrated wood component and creamy white and yellow-fleshed fruit character. Acids are good and length is impressive — it’s at a fine stage of maturity, likely at peak, especially if you want to capture the remaining fruit. 100% falanghina from the estate’s historic Vigna Caracci, a single vineyard on the slopes of Monte Massico at around 250 metres, with a small percentage aged in French oak barriques. Tasted April 2026.

91 Tenuta Cavalier Pepe Vigna Santa Vara 2024, Irpinia DOC Falanghina

Nicely balanced, rich, ripe, creamy, with well-integrated oak character and fresh acids, and good length. Everything lines up nicely, with excellent length. 100% falanghina from a single vineyard in Luogosano, Irpinia, at around 450 metres elevation, with partial fermentation and ageing in French oak barriques. Tasted April 2026.

91 DI MEO Campania Falanghina 2025, Campania IGT Falanghina

Di Meo crafts wines for the long term, so expect some reduction here — lightly sulphurous but proper — with crunchy citric acids and a lingering finish. This is good wine. 100% falanghina beneventana from Di Meo’s estate in Salza Irpina, Avellino province, at around 500 metres elevation; all stainless steel vinification. Tasted April 2026.

91 MARTUSCIELLO SALVATORE Settevulcani 2025, Campi Flegrei DOC Falanghina

Clean and saline like a sea breeze on the nose; with nicely wound citrus-lemon fruit, fragrant Amalfi-type lemons and sweet green herbs for additional interest. The palate is light to mid-weight, like a squeeze of lemon with its salty acids, and length and depth are very good. A properly volcanic example, about 6 months to a year away from entering its prime drinking window. 100% falanghina flegrea from the volcanic soils of the Campi Flegrei, sourced from several plots at 50–200 metres elevation; stainless steel vinification to preserve aromatic freshness. Tasted April 2026.

91 AGNANUM Campi Flegrei Falanghina 2025, Campi Flegrei DOC Falanghina

More subtle on the nose than Agnanum’s Sabbia Vulcanica falanghina, a simpler and fruitier example in the end, with crunchy acids and solid length. Good, juicy white wine here with simmering volcanic character. 100% falanghina flegrea from Agnanum’s estate vineyards on volcanic soils in the Campi Flegrei, vinified in stainless steel. Tasted April 2026.

91 LA SIBILLA Campi Flegrei Falanghina 2024, Campi Flegrei DOC Falanghina

Good, clean citric and saline aromatics here, sharply wound, tight and saliva-inducing the way we like them. The palate cries with joy, dripping with acids, and the finish lingers. Classic volcanics at work here, best from 2026. 100% falanghina flegrea from La Sibilla’s 10 hectares of ungrafted vines at around 50–100 metres overlooking Lake Fusaro in the Campi Flegrei; all stainless steel. Approximately 20,000 bottles produced. Tasted April 2026.

91 ASTRONI Cru Vigna Astroni 2022, Campi Flegrei DOC Falanghina

Astroni’s premier cru from the Astroni caldera, this is clearly ripe and verging on exotic, fullish, with marked fruit and citric acids, and a dense, salty palate. Good volcanicity to be sure, even if the palate is not that expansive. 100% falanghina flegrea from the ancient Vigna Astroni crater at around 100–150 metres, with some of the oldest ungrafted vines in the Campi Flegrei on volcanic tuff. Tasted April 2026.

90 PORTO DI MOLA Donna Elena s.a., Roccamonfina IGT Falanghina

Clean; maturing, with subtle lees character, and a fairly rich, extracted palate and ripe yellow-fruit flavours. Blond caramel notes are slipping in, but the frame is substantial enough to hold it all together. A rich and sophisticated wine. Pretty impressive stuff. 100% falanghina from the volcanic soils of the Roccamonfina DOC in northern Campania near the Lazio border, at around 300–400 metres. Tasted April 2026.

90 ASTRONI Colle Imperatrice 2024, Campi Flegrei DOC Falanghina

Crunchy and youthful, still CO2-saturated falanghina here from Astroni, with crunchy acids and savoury citrus-fruit flavours with a resinous herbal twist; volcanism is apparent underneath, but it’s one of Astroni’s more approachable examples, good to chill and go over the near to mid-term. 100% falanghina flegrea from Astroni’s estate in the Campi Flegrei volcanic caldera at 100–200 metres elevation, with ungrafted vines on volcanic tuff soils. Tasted April 2026.

Fiano

94 COLLI DI LAPIO Fiano di Avellino 2025, Fiano di Avellino DOCG

Colli di Lapio’s 2025 fiano pours a pale-medium straw showing more extract than the mean, also notable aromatic intensity and concentration. Beautifully precise florals and tonic-citrus notes emerge on the palate, mid-weight and well balanced with zesty succulent acids and very good to excellent length. There’s an extra gear and dimension in this wine, always among the appellation’s best. 100% fiano di avellino from Romano Clelia’s estate in Lapio at around 550–600 metres on calcareous clay soils; all stainless, aged on the lees for 6 months. Tasted April 2026.

94 TENUTA CAVALIER PEPE Brancato 2024, Fiano di Avellino DOCG Riserva

Brancato is Cavalier Pepe’s premium fiano with some wood ageing, nicely integrated at this stage, adding an extra dimension rather than detracting from fruit and florals. Indeed, it offers up a lovely perfume and shows fine depth and richness on the palate, creamy-full yet framed by fine acids. Length is excellent. A very fine example all in all. 100% fiano di avellino from the estate’s Brancato vineyard in Luogosano at around 500 metres; 20% aged in new French oak barriques for 8 months, the remainder in stainless steel. Drink now or hold into the early ’30s. Tasted April 2026.

94 TENUTE CAPALDO – FEUDI DI SAN GREGORIO Arianiello 2022, Fiano di Avellino DOCG (Stem Wine Group)

Evolving nicely now, showing the typical smokiness of maturing fiano, also honeyed character with fruit slipping into the yellow-fleshed spectrum, with high complexity. The palate is beautifully creamy and balanced, with excellent depth and length — a really classy expression with perfectly dialled wood influence. Sophisticated and complete. 100% fiano di avellino from the single vineyard Arianiello in the commune of Arianiello, Avellino, at around 550 metres; a small percentage aged in French oak barriques. Best from now–2032 or so. Tasted April 2026.

94 CIRO PICARIELLO AL.GE.LO. 2020, Fiano di Avellino DOCG

2020 is the inaugural vintage for Ciro Picariello’s most premium Fiano, named for his three grandchildren, Alessandro, Gerardo and Lorenzo,  shows high-intensity petrol-hydrocarbon character, like old riesling or Hunter Valley semillon — a style I like very much. Palate intensity and density is evident, and acids remain succulent, pushing the salinity narrative. Length is very good. Not a widely appealing style I have to say, more distinctive — a real wine lover’s wine; I’d decant this. 100% fiano di avellino from old-vine parcels in Summonte at up to nearly 700 metres; the wine is fermented and aged in foudres and requires extended bottle age to fully open, developing the petrol and hydrocarbon notes typical of old Irpinian fiano. Tasted April 2026.

94 Ciro Picariello Ciro 906 2024, Fiano di Avellino DOCG

100% fiano di avellino from Picariello’s oldest vineyard parcel in Summonte (36 years old in this vintage), the estate’s reference wine since the 906 designation refers to the altitude of the plateau; all stainless steel, extended lees aging for 10 months minimum. A wine of excellent depth and length, textbook in style, still very youthful and minimum 2-3 years away from prime enjoyment.  Tasted April 2026.

93 DI MEO Fiano di Avellino 2025, Fiano di Avellino DOCG

From Salza Irpinia at over 500 metres above sea level, Di Meo’s 2025 fiano pours a medium gold colour and displays high ripeness, harvested in the first week of October and weighing in at 13.5% ABV. Aromatics spin in the citrus peel, yellow-fleshed fruit spectrum with a gentle touch of reduction and tonic bitters the way we like them. Acids are well balanced on a fleshy, broad-scale frame; length and depth are impressive. A fine example, complex and deep. Vines average 20–30 years old. Tasted April 2026.

93 TENUTE CAPALDO – FEUDI DI SAN GREGORIO Pietracalda 2024, Fiano di Avellino DOCG Riserva (Stem Wine Group)

Lovely aromatics here off the top: clean, precise, fresh, with a proper mix of florals and herbals and citrus, neither reductive nor oxidative, running a precise line. Acids sweep along the palate and draw saliva; length and depth are very good to excellent. Lots to appreciate here; drink or hold into the early ’30s for a fully mature experience. Pietracalda is the vineyard that runs down the south-facing slope by the Feudi estate in the commune of Sorbo Serpico, one of the higher fiano vineyards in Irpinia. Tasted April 2026.

93 Ciro Picariello 2024, Fiano di Avellino DOCG

A blend of Montefredane (earlier harvested, more clay) and Summonte fruit, harvested two weeks later. The blend of the two gives lower alcohol and higher acids in the final blend. I love the crunch and freshness, allied to genuine concentration and the salinity. Terrific length. 100% fiano di avellino blended from two distinct terroirs — clay-rich Montefredane and sandy-volcanic Summonte at 600 metres — stainless steel, aged 8 months on the lees. Tasted April 2026.

92 BENITO FERRARA Sequenzha 2025, Fiano di Avellino DOCG

Clean, fresh-ripe, light and bright, floral, attractive, with white pepper notes and smouldering intensity; the palate shows fine depth and density, a slight phenolic tack and tightly wound flavours with good precision and tight lines. Good to very good length. Fine representation all in all with high succulence and notable salinity. 100% fiano di avellino, the only wine in the Ferrara portfolio made from purchased grapes, from selected Lapio vineyards at 500–600 metres; 6 months on the fine lees in stainless steel. Tasted April 2026.

92 TORRICINO Serrapiano 2024, Fiano di Avellino DOCG Riserva

Clean, ripe and evolving, with appealing creamy notes — there’s some subtle oak here, and certainly lees influence; I like the green herbal notes mixing with yellow flowers, and the slight phenolic tack on the palate. This fits the fiano mould nicely, offering impressive density and depth, and length. A success from the vintage. 100% fiano di avellino Riserva from Torricino’s estate in Serino at around 600 metres elevation; aged 12 months in large Slavonian oak casks and a further 6 months in bottle before release. Tasted April 2026.

92 Villa Raiano Alimata 2024, Fiano di Avellino DOCG

Clean with good aromatic volume; lightly peppery with green herbals and even vegetals. The palate is mid-weight with high succulence and notable salinity, and good chew — density and extract are solid indeed. Very good length as well. Lots to admire here. 100% fiano di avellino from the Alimata single-vineyard cru in Candida, Avellino province, at around 500 metres on volcanic tuff and clay soils; aged 10 months in stainless steel on the fine lees. Best from 2027. Tasted April 2026.

91 ROCCA DEL PRINCIPE Versante D’Ercole 2024, Fiano di Avellino DOCG

Pale straw-green; clean and fresh on the nose. Botanical, florals, herbals in the typical spectrum. Palate shows good to very good depth and fine, succulent acids, medium-plus length. Well balanced, even-keeled, nicely done. 100% fiano di avellino from Rocca del Principe’s estate vineyards in Lapio at 550–600 metres on calcareous clay. Tasted April 2026.

91 Laura De Vito Arianié 2023, Fiano di Avellino DOCG

From Contrada Arianiello, a 5ha parcel with a mix of volcanic ash, sand and clay, north-facing, which makes it a quite unique in the region, harvested in the second week of October with still high levels of acidity (though only 5.5 g/l TA), with separate vinification by soil as of 2024 (though without different cru names as of yet). Evolving nicely now with some lees influence noted over ripe yellow citrus fruit; acids line up nicely with the mid-weight palate, though overall I find this in the more stony, mineral, leaner side of the fiano spectrum. There’s fine precision and definition, and length. A very solid example, starting to drink now but I feel it has more to give. Tasted April 2026.

90 Antica Hirpinia Fiano di Avellino 2025, Fiano di Avellino DOCG

Clean, fresh — white and yellow-fleshed fruit lead with fine balance and precision. No wood apparent; fine botanicals. Length and depth are good. Nicely honed, and stony on the finish. 100% fiano di avellino from Lapio, one of the finest communes for the variety, at 500–600 metres elevation on clay and volcanic ash soils. Tasted April 2026.

90 VILLA RAIANO Fiano di Avellino 2025, Fiano di Avellino DOCG

Raiano’s 2025 Fiano has an intriguing and inviting herbal-floral-citrus driven aromatic profile, white pepper-inflected — an almost grüner-like expression. The palate is mid-weight and succulent, with zesty acids, fine balance and precision, and solid length. Nicely dialled all in all. 100% fiano di avellino from Villa Raiano’s multiple estate vineyards in the Avellino hills at 450–550 metres, with the wine aged entirely in stainless steel. Tasted April 2026.

90 MACCHIE SANTA MARIA Boschi a Lapio 2024, Fiano di Avellino DOCG Riserva

Pale straw colour and medium-plus intensity aromatics, with notable tonic bitters and lees influence, hovering around the edge of reduction without slipping in. There’s solid weight on the palate with balanced, zesty acids and gentle salinity, and a finish that turns more mineral on the back end. I like the firm character and strong voice here — a wine that should gain interest with another 2–3 years in bottle. 100% fiano di avellino from single-vineyard Riserva in Lapio at around 550 metres, aged in large neutral oak for 12 months before bottling. Tasted April 2026.

90 Pietracupa Campania Fiano 2024, Campania IGT Fiano

Clean, fragrant, notably peppery — white pepper — with an intensely citric palate; acids are bright and crunchy, framing the lightweight palate. Intensity and depth are a little lower than the mean for Pietracupa, making for a lighter, zestier, earlier-drinking vintage. Clean and precise, though complexity is modest overall. 100% fiano from Pietracupa’s estate in Montefredane, Avellino, at 500–600 metres on mainly sandy volcanic soils; the IGT designation reflects Pietracupa’s preference for flexible aging decisions outside the DOCG rules. Tasted April 2026.

90 Laura De Vito Arianié 2022, Fiano di Avellino DOCG

Opening nicely now, with good freshness, botanical bitters in the house style, also leesy qualities. I like the tonic quality, but it’s not a classic beauty. Tasted April 2026.

90 TENUTA DEL MERIGGIO Colle delle Ginestre 2022, Fiano di Avellino DOCG Riserva

Still tightly wound and sulphury-reductive; appears to be moving slowly, with fruit still suppressed. Or, perhaps, this site is not about fruitiness. The palate in any case is firm and tacky with marked acids furthering the tightly wound expression. I feel it needs another 2–3 years to come into its own — density and depth are good, it’s just a slow-moving wine. 100% fiano di avellino Riserva from Tenuta del Meriggio’s Colle delle Ginestre vineyard in Montefalcione at 500 metres, aged 18 months in large neutral oak barrels. Tasted April 2026.

Greco

93 Ciro Picariello 2013, Greco di Tufo DOCG

Salty, mature, salted caramel-inflected, but lighter in colour than the 2024 — a cooler vintage, evolving slowly, tight and sharp, showing marvellously well. Really love this. Tasted April 2026.

Other White

94 Cantina Olivella Summa 2024, Catalanesca del Monte Somma IGP

Summa — the top (sum) of what can be done — is also a wordplay on the Somma-Vesuviana Volcanic Complex that encompasses both peaks left after the 79 CE eruption. Six days of fermentation on the skins and then 50% of the free juice is transferred into dolia to finish fermentation. It’s explosively aromatic, very fruity, also notably herbal, with sweet and savoury herbs on offer, tonic, gently bitter in the refreshing sense. Good grip on the finish but without excessive phenolics; length is excellent. 100% catalanesca from old vines at 350–450 metres on the north slope of Vesuvius; limited production of around 3,000 bottles. Certified organic. Tasted April 2026.

92 Sorrentino Vesuvio Latikadea 2020, Falanghina IGT Pompeiano

Actually produced with Uva del Conte in purezza (the “count’s grape”), bottled under falanghina as it’s not (yet?) permitted to label with this rare grape variety. It’s has small bunches and a notable floral character, though it takes several years for the aromatics to emerge fully. The 2020 is lovely in any case, with a light tannic tack and fine succulence. This is really interesting wine — oak-free and still lively and fresh. I love the fresh pear williams and white-flower flavours. Like moschophilero — rose water. 100% Uva del Conte (labelled as Falanghina IGT) from Sorrentino’s Pompeiano vineyards; only a few hundred cases produced. Tasted April 2026.

91 ALOIS Morrone 2024, Terre del Volturno IGT Pallagrello Bianco

Alois’s premium Pallagrello from the Morrone della Monica vineyard in Pontelatone, planted in limestone soils in 2005, offers good, clean aromatics in the 2024 vintage, a fine mix of lees, fruit and herbs. The palate is firm, with grippy phenolics. Everything is mid, from weight to intensity to length, correct as it is. 100% pallagrello bianco aged partly in large Slavonian oak casks for added complexity. Considering the quality of Alois’s more entry-level Caiatì pallagrello in 2025, I’m excited to see the 2025 version of this. Drink or hold short term. Tasted April 2026.

91 Cantina Olivella Emblema 2024, Vesiuvio Caprettone DOP

Fermentation finishes for a part in dolia, though the freshness here is fully intact. A fine and delicate caprettone, as the best examples are, with moderate, creamy acids and very good length. I like the delicacy and the finesse, and the fact that freshness remains along with succulence even in the absence of pronounced acids, making it gently refreshing. 100% caprettone from organically farmed vineyards at 250–350 metres on volcanic soils; partial fermentation in ancient clay dolia vessels adds textural complexity. Tasted April 2026.

90 CASA SETARO Munazei Bianco Bio 2025, Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio DOC

Clean and fragrant, fresh, fermentation aromatics, all citrus and florals, clean and well done, precise and tightly wound. Acids are crunchy and alcohol feels moderate, leaving stones and acids to finish the job on the back end. An outdoor, seafood, situational wine offering lots of pleasure. Length is better than one would think. 100% caprettone, certified organic (Bio), from Casa Setaro’s volcanic sand and lapilli soils on the north side of Vesuvius at around 250–350 metres. Tasted April 2026.

90 CANTINE ANTONIO MAZZELLA Gawem 2023, Ischia DOC Biancolella

Intensely aromatic in the thiol-sauvignon blanc spectrum with delicate wood influence, ripe, bruised tropical fruit character, with notable intensity and depth, and length, on the palate. There’s some fantasy here, even if complexity and ultimately depth are moderate. 100% biancolella, aged one-third each in stainless steel, new chestnut barrel (500l) and amphora — an innovative approach for this delicate variety. About 1,200 bottles produced. Drink over the near term I’d suggest. Tasted April 2026.

90 VIGNE CHIGI Pallagrello Bianco 2025, Terre del Volturno IGT Pallagrello Bianco

Clean, open, fruity-appley aromatics with a citrus-lemon twist, tonic, savoury in reserve. The palate is well balanced and properly savoury in the volcanic idiom, with fine depth and palate presence. Great salinity indeed; definitely worth a look. 100% pallagrello bianco from volcanic soils of the Volturno Valley in Caserta province at around 250–350 metres elevation. Tasted April 2026.

90 ALOIS Caiatì 2025, Terre del Volturno IGT Pallagrello Bianco

Clean, subtle and discreet, tending towards more elegance than the variety typically provides; the palate has good grip and phenolic chew, with extract above the mean, also impressive length. A solid example, best from 2027. 100% pallagrello bianco from Alois’s volcanic soils in Caiazzo, Caserta province. Tasted April 2026.

90 Sorrentino Vesuvio Benita 31 2024, Vesivuo Caprettone DOP

Dedicated to Giuseppe Sorrentino’s grandmother, Benita, born in 1931 — a single vineyard at up to 350 metres. Caprettone is a thin-skinned variety that takes on colour when exposed to sun, and indeed this pours a medium straw colour even at this young age, though shows little oxidative character to speak of. Acids are generally lower than other local varieties like falanghina and greco, making this a creamy, round and soft expression, yet with a saltiness that maintains freshness — there’s nothing heavy about it. I like the gentle, easy-going nature allied to territoriality. 100% caprettone, single vineyard, stainless steel; approximately 3,000 bottles produced. Tasted April 2026.

90 Cantina Olivella Katà 2024, Catalanesca del Monte Somma IGP

Five producers make pure catalanesca on Vesuvio, but Olivella was the first and remains the biggest producer of the variety, with over half the world’s acreage planted — which totals about 30 hectares, though not all in commercial production. This 2024 has fine balance and marked freshness despite the relatively warm vintage in most of southern Italy; on the north side of Vesuvius, the season ended on a cool stretch and good acids were preserved. Approximately 50,000 bottles produced. 100% catalanesca, certified organic, from Olivella’s vineyards on the Monte Somma volcanic complex at 250–400 metres. Tasted April 2026.

White Blends

93 CASA SETARO 61.37 Contradae 2022, Vesuvio DOC Bianco

Mature, creamy-lactic, a more ambitious example here to be sure, with fantasy, orange creamsicle and ripe citrus-lemon curd character; the palate is firm and tight, densely wound, with genuine concentration and lovely, crunchy acids — I love the saline, crunchy, long finish, a serious wine in the context. I love how this plays out on the palate and delivers well above the standard. A blend of 61% caprettone and 37% falanghina (hence the name), with an additional 2% of local white varieties, from Contrada Caselle and Contrada Tirone, aged 6 months in large foudres. Drink now or hold into the early ’30s. Tasted April 2026.

93 Sorrentino Vesuvio Vigna Lapillo 2018, Lacryma Christi Superiore

80% caprettone and falanghina blend. Pours a pale-medium, green gold with advancing aromatics but still fresh. 2018 was a relatively rainy year with distinct seasons and a cold winter — all good things — what might be called a classic or normal year. This is in fact brilliant on the palate, creamy, not at all tired. Acids are fluid and round, and length is excellent. The merest touch of petrol is starting to creep in, but this is still mainly in the citrus spectrum, especially lemon zest. Lovely wine. Tasted April 2026.

92 Sorrentino Vesuvio Vigna Lapillo 2023, Lacryma Christi Bianco Superiore

The top white from Sorrentino from select vineyards between 450 and 650 metres above sea level, a blend of 80% caprettone and 10% each of falanghina and greco, vinified in steel and left 8 months on fine lees and another year in bottle minimum. Maximum 1–1.5 kilos per plant, though it would be hard to yield much higher on the south side of Vesuvius with the constant breezes that cause water evaporation. The 2023 is a rather rich and round, creamy expression, neither reductive nor oxidative, walking a fine line. White and yellow-fleshed fruit dominates; 13% ABV. Certified organic. Tasted April 2026.

92 Cantina Olivella Lacrimabinaco 2024, Lacryma Christi Bianco DOP

80% caprettone, 20% catalanesca, fermented and aged in stainless steel — a lovely, pretty, fragrant, green apple and tonic citrus peel, lemon-scented volcanic white with impressive depth and substance, and wild herb flavour in the local style. Lovely sapidity and salinity drives more sips; fine balance. Delicious and representative. Quality has really improved at this estate on the north side of Vesuvius since viticulture was fine-tuned, all new equipment was purchased, and a new cellar is also being constructed. Organically certified. From vineyards at 200–350 metres on the north face of Vesuvius on volcanic lapilli and ash soils. Tasted April 2026.

91 SORRENTINO VINI Vigna Lapillo Bio 2023, Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio DOC Bianco Superiore

Lightly smoky-reductive, but with substance underneath, Sorrentino’s 2023 Lapillo offers considerable density on the palate, evident concentration as well as length, an impressive example well above the mean for the appellation. Genuine substance and complexity on offer. A blend of 80% caprettone and 10% each falanghina and greco from select vineyards between 450 and 650 metres above sea level on the south face of Vesuvius, certified organic. Approximately 5,000 bottles produced. Tasted April 2026.

91 SAMMARCO ETTORE Selva delle Monache 2025, Costa D’Amalfi DOC Ravello Bianco

Clean and fresh, floral and lively, sweet green herb-inflected, with a gentle touch of lees. The palate is balanced and sapid — a blend of 60% biancolella, and 20% each biancazita and falanghina — well balanced, contemporary but authentic. Enjoying this. Vines grown on the terraced slopes above Ravello at 400–600 metres, trained on pergola systems typical of the Amalfi Coast. Tasted April 2026.

91 CUOMO MARISA Fiorduva 2024, Costa d’Amalfi DOC Furore Bianco

A blend of ultra-local ripoli 40%, ginestra 30% and fenile 30%, more or less, Cuomo’s 2024 Fiorduva delivers a fine mix of fresh herbals and florals, with citrus peel and more tonic botanicals in the background, with appealing refreshing bitterness emerging on the long finish. A stylish and accomplished wine. Produced from pre-phylloxera vines averaging 80 years of age, grown on terraced dolomitic limestone soils at up to 500 metres on the vertiginous cliffs above Furore; 13% ABV, approximately 3,000 bottles produced. Best now–2030 or so. Tasted April 2026.

That’s all for this special report, see you ’round the next bottle. 

 John Szabo, MS