Buyer’s Guide to Vintages September 27th Release

Aged Wines – Expectation and Reality

By David Lawrason, with notes from Sara d’Amato, Michael Godel and John Szabo

The twin maxims that all wine is better with age — and the older the better — is just not true. I sense that most WineAlign readers know this, but it is worth repeating as Vintages September 27 release offers Mature Outlook as it theme and presents wines at various stages of maturity. I want to use their selections to discuss the ageing process. And then we provide our recommendations from this release, whether mature or not.

But first a note about my most recent encounter with aged wines, ironically at the Celebration of Life for John Tait held on September 27. John was one of the original LCBO Vintages product consultants, a fine, gentle, intelligent, man who was liked by everyone, and who loved wine to the nth degree. His good nature was literally on pour at the National Club in Toronto, as his personal cellar was dispensed for all to enjoy.

Despite my instinct to make this a tasting opportunity, it was more important to sip away and reminisce with dozens of lifelong friends and acquaintances. But, without making notes, I did sip three aged pinot noirs. A Bouchard 2012 Beaune from Burgundy was nicely balanced but rather boring flavourwise, showing mature character but not much vitality or depth (which may have been a vintage thing). Next a Felton Road Pinot Noir, the most famous pinot of New Zealand, of similar vintage. It was more intense and interesting, evolved to a good place with fruit still in place, and drinking well.

Neither prepared me for the breathtaking intensity, vitality and complexity of a 2004 Pinot Noir from Closson Chase of Prince Edward County. The fruit, barrel and aged aromas were explosive and riveting! The palate was alive with acidity, and the depth of flavour was outstanding — all this from vines that were only five years old in a wine region that was just beginning to show its stuff at the hand of Deborah Paskus, who’s signature was on the back label.

So, one important consideration about mature wine is that, despite knowing the theory, you just never know from bottle to bottle.

The ageing of wine is essentially the process of fruit rotting. We have all had bruised, browning fruit experiences due to exposure to oxygen — expiring fruit bowls, windfall orchard fruit. In the bottle, the process goes slow-mo because reductive ageing (in the absence of oxygen) takes over, very gradually changing the flavours. Primary fruit and floral elements morph into more earthy, leathery, nutty (tertiary) notes. But at some point — considered “prime” — the juxtaposition of youth and aged aromas is ideal, creating more complexity.

The other thing that happens with age is that the structural elements of acid, alcohol and especially tannin (in reds) start to meld, creating refined, elegant texture (smoothness). The more full-bodied, structured and tannic the wine is, the longer the process will take, projecting the drinking dates we often provide. But there are other factors in longevity. The level of acidity is one, proven by the ageability of white wines with high acid, like riesling and Champagne.

And then there is storage temperature with ageing slowing down the cooler the temperature. In a recent article, Michael Vaughan discussed the vitality of 50-year old Inniskillin reds stored all this time at 6C, which is seven degrees colder than what is widely considered normal cellar temperature. You may or may not want your wines to outlive you.

We did not taste all the “13 Well Aged Wines” that Vintages highlights in this release. And there are two non-highlighted older wines that perhaps should have been included. In the notes below I have arranged them in youngest to oldest by vintage date, with comments explaining reasons for expectation and the actual state of maturity.

Adamo Lowrey Vineyard Grower’s Series Pinot Noir 2019 from Niagara should be at prime as a six-year-old pinot from an excellent, old vines site, but it is way over the hill with pale tawny colour. The oxidative nutty aromas are appealing but the palate fruit (and, thus, pinot character) is unrecognizable while the tannins have not diminished. Dried out. What happened here?

Cavino Nemea Grande Reserve 2018 from Greece is maturing nicely toward prime, as expected for a mid-weight red of seven years, with an appealing complex of fruit, herbal, barrel and aged aromas. Tannins are still in play.

Château De Monrecueil 2016 is also at prime. It was an excellent year for age-worthy Bordeaux, and this inexpensive Right Bank merlot has moved along on schedule. No great depth but aromatic complexity and balance are what I am looking for in a nine-year old Bordeaux, at a good price.

La Spinona Bergera Barolo 2015. Barolo is one the world’s most age-worthy wines, so 2015 should be starting into the drinking zone where notorious tannins are softening. And they are, but flavours here are very earthy and oxidative well ahead of their due date. Winery handling, or shipping and storage to blame?

Forget Brimont 1er Cru Brut Champagne 2014 is a case study for the longevity of the light bodied but highly structured whites of northern France. Complex, deep, elegant and still dancing, with years ahead.

Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 from Chile is still vibrant, fruit driven and almost rich. Non-European cabernets are just a durable as Bordeaux, if not more so.

R. López De Heredia Viña Tondonia Reserva 2013 is a classic Rioja designed for long ageing. It is in prime time with pitch-perfect balance. I expected more flavour intensity and dynamism, but it is very complex.

Stratus White 2007 from Niagara emulates white Bordeaux, which can be long-lived in upper tier examples. This is amazingly youthful, complex and intriguing.

Izarbe Gran Reserva 2007. Gran Reserva from Rioja, Spain, is expected to be at prime, and this sturdy, well balanced bottling meets that expectation. May live another five years.

Urbina Especial Reserva 2006 from Rioja is slipping away. Fascinating, complex aromas and fine texture, but distracting, creeping oxidation says drink up.

Here are our critics recommendations, young and old and in between, arranged in ascending price order. There is more alignment than usual, perhaps overall we felt this was a weaker release and we focused on the best.

Buyer’s Guide Vintages September 27th: Whites & Sparkling

Nals Margreid Hill Pinot Grigio 2023, Alto Adige-Trentino, Italy
$25.95, Mondo Vino
John Szabo – A pinot grigio of more serious and qualitative demeanor than the mean, with genuine depth and complexity, and layered flavour definition, well beyond the commercial mould. Drink or hold until the end of the decade.

Terres Secrètes Les Préludes 2023, Burgundy, France
$27.95, Vinexx
David Lawrason – Saint Veran is the southernmost chardonnay appellation in Burgundy, so expect softer, riper, almost tropical expression. There is some reductive flint/chive character atop the banana-pineapple fruit with creamed corn, nutmeg and light barrel toast. Quite bright, intense and warming.

The Grange Of Prince Edward Victoria Block Chardonnay 2023, Ontario, Canada
$29.95, The Grange of Prince Edward
David Lawrason – The re-make of Grange is revealing some exciting wines, with Hinterland neighbour Jonas Newman now at the winemaking helm and original viticulturalist Mike Peddlesden refurbishing a vineyard — like Victoria’s Block — that is now 25 years old. This is vibrant yet delicate and expressive County chardonnay!
Sara d’Amato – Old-vine concentration from the Victoria’s block brings depth and concentration along with impressive length to this dynamic chardonnay. Generous yet finely poised, this congenial find is richly textured with a striking clarity of fruit. Elegantly composed yet disarmingly generous.
John Szabo – A nicely-pitched, creamy, lemon custard-infused, stone-washed PEC chardonnay, with happily struggling, low-yielding vines lending evident depth and concentration. And while (quality) oak influence is still on display, I’d suggest another year or two to allow for suitable and appealing integration. Best from 2027.

Garzón Single Vineyard Albariño 2023, Uruguay, World
$40.95, Mark Anthony Group
David Lawrason – Albarino, originating in Spain’s coastal Galicia, has become the poster white variety at Garzon in coastal Uruguay, on the other side of the Atlantic. It captures lovely, lemon, honeysuckle, sub-tropical starfruit/yellow plum and sprig of fresh mint in a lively, crisp style.
John Szabo – Albariño (and tannat) have become Uruguayan, and especially Bodega Garzón specialties over the last decade or so, and here this single vineyard 2023 reaches a very high level of competence and proficiency in the genre. Ready to enjoy, but no rush.
Michael Godel – This is varietal white wine staring directly at you with palate presence of control and unfiltered experience. Allowing for some settling time is probably the prudent course of action.

Stratus White 2007, Ontario, Canada
$59.20, Stratus Vineyards
John Szabo – It’s fun, and educational, to revisit this groundbreaking white from Stratus 15 years later to check in, and I’m happy to report that it’s still in very fine shape and has indeed vindicated then winemaker Jean-Laurent Groux’s belief that Niagara can produce excellent, age-worthy white blends that supersede individual varieties and deliver a greater holistic whole. This performs at the same level as many top-notch white Bordeaux. Drink now, but really there’s no rush; I’d even suggest carafing just before serving, and definitely at the table.
Sara d’Amato – It’s a pleasure to find this aging with such grace. A complex, oak-aged blend of sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, sémillon, gewürztraminer, and riesling from a warm vintage that has endowed glycerol richness that has carried it beautifully through the years. Today, it’s round, honeyed, and luxuriously mature — held in check by lingering fruit and an elegant, time-softened acidity.
Michael Godel – The White ’07 has aged with so much elegance and grace, rendering my previous assessment a thing of the past. Hard to fathom this much freshness could still be a focal point of this wine.

Forget Brimont 1er Cru Brut Champagne 2014, Champagne, France
$129.95, Tocade
Sara d’Amato – Aged Champagne can divide a room, but this bottle should prove widely appealing. This gracefully matured expression is made from equal parts chardonnay and pinot noir and offers a great deal of immediate drinking pleasure. It’s poised and delicately frothy, the palate offering tree fruit and citrus zest over notes of brioche and bitter almond. Generous in texture but crackling with energy.

Buyer’s Guide Vintages September 27th: Reds

Quinta Das Setencostas Alenquer 2020, Portugal
$13.95, Majestic Wine Cellars
Sara d’Amato – My value pick this release is a deep, brambly red with nervy tension from one of the more prestigious areas of the Lisboa region in central western Portugal. This generous fruit laden red offers a multitude of natural fruit, spice and intriguing botanicals. It features a blend of castelão, touriga nacional, and cabernet sauvignon with a peppery, purple-fruited palate.
David Lawrason – Yet another very inexpensive, maritime Lisbon red that delivers well beyond its price. It is a deeply coloured, youthful purple ruby. The nose uplifts with pretty mulberry, violet, vague herbs. It is soft and slightly confectionary, with easy tannin.

Monasterio De Las Viñas Reserva 2020, Cariñena, Spain
$16.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
Michael Godel – There is no expectation for five months since last tasting that would to have had any significant effect on a Monasterios red — but lo and behold the truth is just this with the house’s penchant record for aging remaining intact. As crunchy as ever and showing with distinction as ever before.

Tenuta Iuzzolini Cirò Rosso Classico 2023, Calabria, Italy
$18.95, Eurovintage Wines & Spirits
David Lawrason – This is a hearty, nervy, tart-edged yet generous red based on a local variety called gaglioppo. Lots of granitic minerality, herbality and sour red cherry. Rustic with no delusions of grandeur, but it should tuck nicely, lightly chilled, into hearty Mediterranean fare — and the value quotient is five star.

Shanahans The Barking Dog Gsm 2023, South Australia, Australia
$19.95, Five Senses Wines & Spirits
Sara d’Amato – Oh, the rotondone! Both black and white pepper leap from the glass — syrah lending the former, grenache the latter, in this Rhône-styled Barossa GSM. Aromatically captivating, with bramble, rosehip, dried mint and a whiff of sage that are woven into a tapestry of spice. Great value, complex and finely structured, yet already drinking beautifully.
John Szabo – Smooth and supple, silky and stylish, highly pleasurable grenache-led blend from the Barossa, featuring ripe strawberry fruit and some scorched earth underlying, not to mention dried mint and wild Mediterranean scrub. Tannins are ultra-smooth and acids on the lower side, conspiring to create a luxuriant, soft mouthfeel. Good to go now.
David Lawrason – Two thumbs up! Barossa meets Southern Rhone.

Château Des Tours Brouilly 2023, Beaujolais, France
$22.95, Woodman Wines & Spirits
Sara d’Amato – Gamay lovers, or soon to be — take note. The “cru” of Brouilly from a slightly warmer, riper vintage delivers feathery elegance with peppery bramble and generous red fruit. Medium-body, supple tannins, and moderate acidity make it instantly approachable. Chill lightly and enjoy.
David Lawrason – Another ditto!

Firriato Santagostino Baglio Sorìa Nero D’avola/Syrah 2018, Sicily, Italy
$23.95, Profile Wine Group (Vin Vino)
John Szabo – Firriato’s Nero d’Avola-syrah blend has a track record over 30 vintages long at this stage, among the company’s best-known labels, produced from fruit at the Baglio Soría estate in western Sicily. This 2018 edition is showing amazingly well at this stage, revealing little of its seven years, a solid and satisfying, highly Sicilian wine all in all, with broad appeal to boot.

Terrabianca Campaccio 2020, Tuscany, Italy
$39.95, Profile Wine Group (Barrique)
Michael Godel – The price has not changed in 23 years and for that we can be so very thankful. This is your Thanksgiving red, dear reader, ready, willing, generous and able.
John Szabo – Arillo’s blend from the warm 2020 vintage takes on a ripe and mature profile at this stage, having shifted largely past fruit into the earthy, leathery spectrum, with some desiccated red and black berry fruit hanging in. A stylish, premium wine all in all, drinking well now, but will surely hold into the mid-thirties given this impressive depth and flavour intensity.
David Lawrason – The sangiovese aromatics really hold their ground in this blend with cabernet sauvignon blanc and merlot add structure. Expect red currant/raspberry, lifted herbs, floral notes and classy, subdued wood from one year in French oak. It is medium full, intense and energized, with slightly coarse tannin. Impressive now but cellar for another five years.

Izarbe Gran Reserva 2007, Rioja, Spain
$51.95, Signature Wines & Spirits Ltd.
Michael Godel – Showing beautifully with dark fruit, plenty of wood accents (yet no detectable American). Kind of dreamy, and those who like the style will love this older wine.

R. López De Heredia Viña Tondonia Reserva 2013, Rioja, Spain
$77.95, John Hanna & Sons
John Szabo – A marvellously spicy and even-keeled, mid-weight and succulent wine-lovers wine. This is all about the fine-boned, elegant and stately styling, with perfume that is far from tired but just gearing up for additional future additions to the complex range of flavours already on offers. You could drink now, but I’d be cellaring for another 3–4 years for a more complete and fulfilling expression.
Sara d’Amato – Not listed in Vintages “Mature Wines” feature, but it easily belongs. It still boasts vibrant acidity and firm tannins, with red fruit slowly giving way to more nuanced layers of bottle-aged flavours. Delicate oak spice is seamlessly woven into the palate, lending complexity without overpowering. With excellent length and restrained alcohol, this is a tempranillo at its most expressive and true to place.
Michael Godel – By López de Heredia standards this does not qualify as an old wine, even if a 2013 released in 2025 would in fact be from most other Spanish wineries. The 2013 is doing more than just fine thank you very much with a brightness and an energy that captivates and opens doors of perception, fantasy and imagination. What more could you want?

And that is wrap for this edition. We return for a look at Vintages selection of Italy’s Iconic Wines and Hidden Gems on the October 11 Release. Wishing you and your families a bountiful Thanksgiving.

Cheers,
David Lawrason
VP of Wine

Use these quick links for access to all of our September 27th Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 30 days prior.

John’s Top Picks – September 27th
Lawrason’s Take – September 27th
Michael’s Mix – September 27th
Sara’s Selections – September 27th

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