This is surprisingly not bad, seemingly thin at first but actually quite lively with tart cherry, raspberry, and cranberry on top of leather, black pepper, and herbs, a touch of meatiness on the nose, quite dry but with nice length, the sort of uncomplicated food-friendly wine that Italy does so well. It's hardly a great wine, not even close, but it's a pleasure to drink a wine that doesn't try to be more than it is, that works well within its limits, and that, despite those limits, surprises with complexity and depth beyond the norm.