Ian Hawley
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Reviews (19)
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I have been a member of just about every wine club, active and folded, in Ottawa over the last 30 years. Over the years many people expressed appreciation (to shades and degrees) of my enthusiasm for and interpretation of wines. A few years ago I decided to formalize my applied research and secured my sommelier accreditation.
Like you, I have come to favour certain wines, wine styles, and regions. I like to think I am aware of my biases and will let you know when they surface. I am highly curious about wine and venture happily beyond my established wine preferences.
Reviews
Domaine Saint Rémy Réserve Gewurztraminer 2008, Ac Alsace
Alsace, France$18.95
This wine met the mouth with a gush of rosewater that quickly transformed into lychee fruit. It was a tad fat as compared to a typical Alsace gewurtz. This disappointment may be in part explained by its non-typical amount of sweetness; it was not dry to Alsacian standards and acidity was muted. What to pair with it? We concluded it was good on its own as an apertif.
3.5 Stars
(0)V
Domaine Pierre Gelin Fixin 2006, Ac
Burgundy, France$31.95
A splendid example of a Cote-d Or burgundy. Once decanted aromas of earthy barnyard emerged (a looked-for, like diesel aromas in a riesling), along with chalky if not dusty limestone, sour and dark cherry. To the taste it had some spiciness. It matched well with lamb chops (cooked 1/2 butter and olive oil with rosemary, tarragon, mint, and a sprinkle of fennel). The protein softened the acid-tannins perfectly. The wine demanded to be savoured; ready now and for a few more years.
3.5 Stars
(0)V
Alois Kracher Cuvee Beerenauslese 2007, Burgenland, Neusiedlersee
Austria$18.65
Beernausleses are rare in the LCBO so I snagged this $22 1/2 bottle. I was surprised to see it is from Austria, not Germany. The grapes are not listed. Upon pouring, aromas of peach, apricot, and honey lept from the glass, along with fragrances of white flowers. The taste and mouth feel are reminiscent of vidal late harvest and I would be surprised if anyone tasting this blind would suggest other than vidal. Crystals of tartaric acid had precipitated out, perhaps edging the wine to cloyingly sweet but hey, it is a dessert wine. It will keep and I'm going to buy more for the winter(s) ahead
3.5 Stars
(0)V
Willy Gisselbrecht Tradition Gewurztraminer 2008, Ac Alsace
Alsace, France$18.95
I should have read the reviews before buying, esp alerted to the "off dry" comments. I buy Alsace gewurtz because Alsace does a dry style. In my opinion, gewurtz is meant to be fermented dry - the German off-dry style for this grape doesn't do it justice (just as bone dry rieslings fail that grape's potential). This wine undermines the Alsace brand in that regard, making me wary of trying unknown brands. It was outright sweet rather than "off dry" with exaggerated fruit that was uncharacteristic. Expensive patio sipping at best.
3.5 Stars
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Dr. Hermann Riesling Kabinett 2008, ürziger Würzgarten
Mosel, Germany$16.95
This is liquid sunshine - bright, sprightly, rich, opulent, with more than a hint of the looked-for diesel aroma. The slate minerality comes through and offers an acid backbone to all the rich fruitiness. All told a well made wine but for my taste a tad overly sweet (but still consistent with many kabinetts). Drink as an apertif as the sweetness would tend to overwhelm most foods, except perhaps certain Thai dishes.
3.0 Stars
(0)V
Aveleda Follies Alvarinho 2010, Vinho Regional Minho
Vinho Verde, Portugal$15.95
Highly aromatic with lime tree scents. To the taste it is light, spritely, and full of lime essence flavour. Not really a patio sipper on its own. John's suggestion of matching with pad Thai, or other spicy seafood dishes, resonates..
3.0 Stars
(0)V
Viña Casablanca El Bosque Chardonnay 2008, Casablanca Valley
Chile$14.95
I did not like this wine. It was overly alcoholic (14.5%), too acidic, and overly oaked (and I like an oaked chardonnay). Not even food could save it. Mind you, we finished the bottle but it took us three days. Why the seemingly incongruous number score? At $15, what can you ask or expect?
3.0 Stars
(0)V
Morse Code Shiraz 2008, Padthaway
Australia$13.10
Another gimmicky label from Australia designed to catch the eye of the hopeful consumer. But hey, its $13, so how can you go too wrong? The label fails to provide any information or make any claims other than the grape and year. The wine had, for me, an immediate rubber smell (possibly from hoses used in the production process) and was overly acidic (added tartaric acid?) rather than tannic. The rubber smell lifted into dark berry fruit. To sum, it is simplistic industrial grade effort. Give it a pass.
2.5 Stars
(0)G
Carl Reh Riesling Kabinett 2008, Mosel
Germany$11.95
Notwithstanding the $11 price tag, this pale, acerbic, thin, and somewhat chemically effort is a disappointment. The vines must be young, indeed too young to make wine, as the taste was green, the fruit and viscosity thin, and overly acidic, along with some unpleasant sulphur aromas that never seemed to blow off. Never again....
2.1 Stars
