Ian Hawley
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Reviews (19)
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I have been a member of just about every wine club, active and folded, in Ottawa over the last 30 years. Over the years many people expressed appreciation (to shades and degrees) of my enthusiasm for and interpretation of wines. A few years ago I decided to formalize my applied research and secured my sommelier accreditation.
Like you, I have come to favour certain wines, wine styles, and regions. I like to think I am aware of my biases and will let you know when they surface. I am highly curious about wine and venture happily beyond my established wine preferences.
Reviews
Pirramimma Shiraz 2006, Mclaren Vale, South Australia
Australia$24.95
This wine is luscious with layers and layers of dark red fruit. Not your one dimensional Aussie fruit bomb - the complexity demands one savour it. I bought 3 - tried the one and am letting the other two evolve for a couple to three years. Its an essentially hot climate wine so I doubt there would be anything to gain by letting it age longer. Great with any red meat dish. Its a real treat both intrinsically and because it exceeds expectations.
4.5 Stars
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Markus Molitor Haus Klosterberg Riesling Auslese 2007, Qmp
Mosel, Germany$24.95
I love an Auslese and this one is no exception. The dominate aromas are pear, followed by peach and apricot, with an ever so subtle scent of diesel to reveal its complexity and roots. The apparent sweetness was balanced by a subtle underlying Mosel acidity that gave one the impression of liquid opulence. However, it seemed a tad tired and I have the distinct impression its in its fading stages. So sad really - I can imagine a blockbuster had I drunk it in 2009.
4.0 Stars
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Pirramimma Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Mclaren Vale
South Australia, Australia$23.95
This is a complex multi-layered wine that offers up wave after wave of dark and dried fruit, notably cassis, black cherry that transforms into dark plum. The initial strong and deep fruit is then overpowered by a tsunami of fuzzy tannin, itself infused with this fruit. Just now the wine demands to be drunk with food such as ossu bucco, lamb, or other strongish meat dishes. This wine needs to sleep a few more years (until 2013+) before the true balance and taste complexities coalesce into a plush wine experience.
4.0 Stars
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Domaine Belle Les Pierrelles Crozes Hermitage 2007, Ac
Rhône, France$22.95
I chased after this wine on Saturday morning and eventually snagged 3 bottles. I find it a beautiful contrast to the furry chewy shiraz wines of Australia or the more astringent cousins in Chile. This 2007 has finesse, depth, and layers of fruit, notably bing cherry and a hint of liquorice. It is a gentleman's shiraz, in other words, a true and thoughtful Rhone syrah.
3.5 Stars
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Montirius Garrigues Vacqueyras 2009, Ac
Rhône, France$27.00
When I uncorked this at the end of Feb. I said Oh Oh. The long cork told me I may have opened it too soon. Alone it was a tad astringent, calling for a meat dish match, and introverted - give it a chance to grow up! All that said, the rack of lamb paired well, easing the tannins and allowing the showing of lush blueberry, black cherry, and blackberry. Delicious!
3.5 Stars
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Pfeffingen Scheurebe Spätlese 2008, Qmp, Ungsteiner Herrenberg
Pfalz, Germany$19.95
Every now and again I get a hankering for a German kabinet quality wine. This spatlese scheurebe is rare and at $20 turned out to be terrific value. Overall impression is one of sweetness, with robust aromas of tropical fruit, apricot, and honey. The subdued acidity could be accounted for by the tartaric acid crystals. In a word: "Yummy". It went well with smoked salmon and gouda cheese appetizers, and could stand alone as a dessert wine. I gave it a 90 because I am a sucker for this style of wine and the uniqueness grabbed me too.
3.5 Stars
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Domaine Saint Rémy Réserve Gewurztraminer 2008, Ac Alsace
Alsace, France$18.95
This wine met the mouth with a gush of rosewater that quickly transformed into lychee fruit. It was a tad fat as compared to a typical Alsace gewurtz. This disappointment may be in part explained by its non-typical amount of sweetness; it was not dry to Alsacian standards and acidity was muted. What to pair with it? We concluded it was good on its own as an apertif.
3.5 Stars
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Masi Brolo Di Campofiorin 2006, Igt Rosso Del Veronese
Veneto, Italy$26.95
Help, I've been robbed! Just because its a Masi doesn't make it good or good value. The wine came across as thin, in stark contrast to expectations of dried grapes as the main input. There were notes of cherry and leather but they were quite subdued. The wine was fairly acidic, not something I look for in a red wine. The tannins held their own against the meat pasta dish. In my view there are plenty of better value wines. Sign me, Grumpy Grape
3.5 Stars
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Willy Gisselbrecht Tradition Gewurztraminer 2008, Ac Alsace
Alsace, France$18.95
I should have read the reviews before buying, esp alerted to the "off dry" comments. I buy Alsace gewurtz because Alsace does a dry style. In my opinion, gewurtz is meant to be fermented dry - the German off-dry style for this grape doesn't do it justice (just as bone dry rieslings fail that grape's potential). This wine undermines the Alsace brand in that regard, making me wary of trying unknown brands. It was outright sweet rather than "off dry" with exaggerated fruit that was uncharacteristic. Expensive patio sipping at best.
3.5 Stars
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Alois Kracher Cuvee Beerenauslese 2007, Burgenland, Neusiedlersee
Austria$18.65
Beernausleses are rare in the LCBO so I snagged this $22 1/2 bottle. I was surprised to see it is from Austria, not Germany. The grapes are not listed. Upon pouring, aromas of peach, apricot, and honey lept from the glass, along with fragrances of white flowers. The taste and mouth feel are reminiscent of vidal late harvest and I would be surprised if anyone tasting this blind would suggest other than vidal. Crystals of tartaric acid had precipitated out, perhaps edging the wine to cloyingly sweet but hey, it is a dessert wine. It will keep and I'm going to buy more for the winter(s) ahead
3.5 Stars
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