i4C: Ontario’s Seriously Cool International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration
by Janet Dorozynski, PhD, DipWSET
Chardonnay is one of the original cool climate grape varieties. Revered in the great white wines of Burgundy and finest Blanc de Blancs in Champagne, it has also long been a flagship white variety in Ontario. And it is so cool that it even has its own international celebration.
Each July, the International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration, or i4C, brings together chardonnay winemakers and wineries from Ontario, across Canada and from leading wine regions across the world where chardonnay shines.
While chardonnay is not the most planted white variety globally (it ranks second to Spain’s airén according to the International Organisation of Vine and Wine), it is one of the most planted in Canada. Significant amounts grow in British Columbia and Ontario and increasingly in Quebec and Nova Scotia. Its versatility is part of that appeal, with chardonnay made into everything from sparkling to still wines, with tiny amounts even made into Icewine.
Photo credit Alina Zherdeva Photography
Tasting Coolness
Since its inception in 2011, i4C has welcomed over 271 wineries from eighty-five cool climate wine regions, pouring 1863 different cool climate chardonnays. That is a remarkable concentration of coolness in one place. i4C is not a competition but rather a celebration of cool climate chardonnay, with multiple events taking place over the course of the weekend, in vineyards and other unique venues across Niagara.
The inspiration for i4C can be traced back in 2009, when Le Clos Jordanne 2005 Claystone Terrace chardonnay beat wines from Burgundy and California in a blind tasting in Montreal. The result sparked a collective objective among Niagara winemakers to restore what they called “the dignity of chardonnay” after years of the ABC movement, and the desire to position Niagara as a global center of excellence for chardonnay. This vision has been realized as the region has earned considerable international recognition as a producer of excellent cool climate chardonnays.
Photo credit Alina Zherdeva Photography
There is of course a certain irony that i4C often takes place during some of the hottest days of July. But perhaps this corresponds with the expansive definition used for cool climate chardonnay. At i4C you can taste chardonnays from warmer climates that are “cool by coastal effect”, that is, influenced by ocean or inland bodies of water, along with those that are “cool by continental effect”, from regions with shorter, warm to hot growing seasons. There are also chardonnays that are “cool by latitude” from northerly regions like Burgundy and those which are “cool by attitude” where, regardless of origin, point to the influence of winemaking decisions in shaping the freshness and texture that characterize many of he world’s finest chardonnays.
Photo credit Alina Zherdeva Photography
You’re Cool, I’m Cool, We’re all Cool
This year marks the 16th Anniversary of i4C and features an expanded coast to coast Canadian theme. Expect perennial Ontario favourites like Hidden Bench, Tawse Winery and Domaine Queylus alongside wineries from British Columbia and Nova Scotia, in addition to chardonnay producers from France, Italy, South Africa and more.
The weekend begins on Thursday July 16 with the School of Cool, featuring keynote speaker and acclaimed sommelier Véronique Rivest, for a day of guided and blind tastings, followed by an inter-active walk around tasting. Though largely aimed at wine trade professionals, dedicated chardonnay enthusiasts will want to snag a ticket. Having attended both virtually and in person over the years, I can confirm that the School of Cool has expanded my appreciation and understanding of chardonnay.
Photo credit Alina Zherdeva Photography
The public events kick off on Friday July 17 with Friday Night Flights at the Niagara District Airport. Always one of my favourite events, buckle up for an energetic mix of chardonnay, food, and music, along with the chance to show off your tasting skills at the Great Canadian Blind Tasting, featuring chardonnay from across Canada.
The fun and festivities culminate on Saturday July 18, with i4C’s signature event: Chardonnay in the Vineyard World Tour Tasting & Dinner at Peller Estates in Niagara-on-the-Lake. Vineyard views set the stage for a grand walk around tasting and gala dinner served up with i4C chardonnays and cool climate reds. The evening winds down, or heats up, with Après Chardonnay, complete with live music and dancing under the stars.
The International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration is the event for devoted chardonnay lovers. And even for skeptics, it offers a compelling opportunity to reconsider one of the world’s most noble and adaptable white grape varieties.
For more information, event details, and tickets, visit chardonnay.org and follow @coolchardonnay