Buyers Guide to Vintages May 23th Release

Eclectic Selections for Better or Worse, But We Pick the Better

By David Lawrason with notes from John Szabo and Michael Godel

As I sat with the WineAlign Crü over two days sifting through a larger than normal selection of wines in this release, I kept thinking that was an odd selection for Vintages, sometimes for the better and sometimes for worse. Wines of unusual styles (sparkling shiraz from Ontario), from off-the-wall places (Moldova) and quirky grapes (gamaret). Obtuse label designs. Fewer classics. I wondered what was going on, until I later opened the Vintages catalogue.

Before revealing what I found, I must steer you to John Szabo’s terrific article on volcanic wines, just posted on WineAlign. It is announcing the results of The Volcanic Wine Awards 2026, which John recently organized in New York with the help of an all-star international cast. John has been at the global forefront of this movement since publishing Volcanic Wines: Salt, Grit, and Power (now available in a Kindle version). If you have not yet peered into this crater, I urge you to at least read the very well-written introduction that makes such a compelling case for soil type being the true core of terroir.

Back to this release, the theme is Summer-Worthy Wines. But that is not really the story. It lies in the subtitle on the cover: Hand Picked by Our Consultants. And when I opened the mag there was a feature about how the buyers had chosen the wines. With small photos and profiles of each buyer, and script-font testimonials about why they selected their wines, all of which seemed too contrived.

My real point is that there has historically been little personal autonomy for buyers who were essentially rubber-stampers of pre-determined offerings by a well-oiled machine of agency submissions to LCBO thematic “calls.” But this selection indeed seemed different and more erratic. Maybe they really did get to make some personal choices and, if so, I am linking it to the changing role of Vintages in the new universe of wine retailing in Ontario. My April 25 article on the LCBO entering “Future State Modernization” provides more context.

We could be witnessing Vintages shifting gears to become a more dynamic, edgy, retailer as they are now competing openly with the explosion of bottle shops, mixed case offerings from agents and wine curation clubs also offering mixed cases (like our very own WineAlign Exchange). Whether they will succeed in the end is another topic, but for now they have a huge retail base and infrastructure with which to work.

Despite my cynicism about the marketing, I really like that Vintages is going this route. The problem, however, is that many wines are shepherded within the $17-to-$25 price point that is Vintages’ core average price bracket. The quality delivered in this zone can be very erratic. But that’s where we come in to help sort it out, with our picks below. Some good new stuff here, with an observation that three of our picks come from Sicily, perhaps the most interesting place on the planet these days for eclectic, good quality and value wines.

Buyer’s Guide Vintages May 23: Sparkling, White & Rosé

Creekside Undercurrent Sparkling Shiraz 2024, Ontario, Canada
$24.95, Trajectory Beverage Partners
David Lawrason – To my knowledge this is the first sparkling shiraz made in Canada, and the natural acidity achieved here makes it instantly appealing. I was reminded of Italian lambrusco. Expect lively ripe sweet black cherry/blueberry jam, heady peony and a touch of pepper. It is light bodied (12%), medium sweet but cut by fine acidity. Nicely done. Chill down and enjoy on the patio.

Collet Art Déco 1er Cru Brut Champagne, Champagne, France
$74.95, The Vine Agency
Michael Godel – Champagne equivalent of moderne, of a wine with backbone, firm acidity, grip and low volume sweetness. If modernism can turn into fashion in Champagne, then Art Deco’s sleek and elegant sophistication does just that.

Cuatro Rayas Vendemio Nocturna Verdejo 2024, Rueda, Spain
$14.95, Vinexx
David Lawrason – This is a very good value indeed at $15, nicely capturing the tropical fresh fig essence of Rueda with green leaning, sauvignon-like flavours as well. It is lively yet smooth with fine acidity, warmth and well-placed residual sugar. Chill well for larger gatherings on the summer patio.

Amato Sicilia Catarrato 2024, Sicily, Italy
$16.95, Martin Werner Consulting Inc.
David Lawrason – A rich, powerful and exotic white with quite deep yellow-gold colour and a lifted nose of tropical melon/green banana fruit. But most interesting is the lifted turpy, evergreen almost botanical character. It is medium full bodied, firm and well structured.

Kühling Gillot Nierstein Riesling 1G 2023, Rheinhessen, Germany
$31.95, Le Sommelier Inc.
John Szabo – Textbook succulent Rheinhessen riesling from an organic, biodynamic estate on the legendary “Roter Hang” Slope — Erste Lage quality at a remarkable $30. Dry, with sharp delineation and excellent length. Serve well-chilled with sushi, Thai, or roast pork. Drink now or, better, cellar 1 to 3 years; will hold into the mid-thirties.
David Lawrason – An exciting, quite bold, balanced and dry riesling trocken. The nose shows penetrating pineapple, apricot and honey with some spice. It is medium weight (12.5% ABV) with crunchy, lively acidity, almost C02 zest and strong minerality. The length is excellent to outstanding.

Domaine Verret Bourgogne Saint Bris 2023, Burgundy, France
$33.95, Vintage Trade Wine
Michael Godel – A bit unusual, between the buttons, or in its avant-garde way, next level for the Burgundian appellation. Accessible, getable and frankly seductive when you consider the grape to be sauvignon blanc.

Château De Beaucastel Coudoulet De Beaucastel Côtes Du Rhône Blanc 2023, Rhône, France
$34.95, Charton Hobbs
Michael Godel – A year forward and the white Beaucastel second wine remains in tip-top shape. Acids continue to elevate and act as catalyst for the prized fruit held inside. Showing zero signs of settling or declension, in fact the wine continues its rise. Big, big yes.
John Szabo – The white companion to Famille Perrin’s Coudoulet, from a parcel sharing Beaucastel’s alpine pebble soils. Richly layered and seriously complex, gaining markedly with air — be sure to decant if drinking soon, or cellar into the mid-thirties without concern. Serve cool (not cold) with roast chicken, risotto, or rich seafood.

Esquisse De Nairac Sauternes 2006, Bordeaux, France
$29.95, Hektars Agency Inc.
David Lawrason – This is a second wine of Chateau Nairac, a mature vintage pouring with stunning deep orange/bronze. The nose is a smash with classic dried apricot, honey, mushroom, botanical evergreen and wood grain. It is full bodied, very sweet of course, with great acidity, finesse and outstanding length. A rare opportunity to try mature Sauternes at a decent price.

Château D’aquéria Tavel Rosé 2025, Rhône, France
$25.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
John Szabo – From the largest estate in Tavel, a textbook deep rosé slash light red with flavour depth and density that far exceed its price. Remarkably consistent year after year. Chill well and serve with grilled salmon, ratatouille, charcuterie or anything off the BBQ — versatile and full of pleasure.

Buyer’s Guide Vintages May 23: Red

Mazzei Zisola 2022, Sicily, Italy
$23.95, Roy+ Co. Selections Inc.
John Szabo – A terrifically intriguing nero d’Avola for the money from Mazzei’s Sicilian estate — silky, savoury, and sapid at a friendly 12.5% ABV. Drink now or hold into the early 2030s as it gains earthy/savoury depth. Serve with grilled lamb, eggplant parmigiana, or hard sheep’s cheeses.
David Lawrason – A well-made, balanced and fresh Sicilian nero d’avola made in a more restrained and elegant style than most neros, from a coastal site on calcareous soils near Siracusa. It shows generous red fruits — strawberry, cherry and cranberry — with subtle herbs, tobacco and spices from 10 months ageing in small French oak barrels.

Château La Garricq Cru Bourgeios 2014, Bordeaux, France
$24.95, The Case For Wine
John Szabo – A mature, organic Left Bank Bordeaux at peak, from a lighter, classically fresh and elegant vintage — Bordeaux the way it used to be. The unusually high petit verdot adds backbone and peppery spice. Really lovely wine at an attractive price. Decant and serve now with roast beef, duck or lamb.

Domaine Cluny Bourgogne Côte D’or Pinot Noir 2022, Burgundy, France
$29.95, The Kolonaki Group Inc.
John Szabo – Serious Bourgogne générique from the Côte d’Or, punching well above its regional appellation. Concentrated from a warm vintage with impressive length — well worth a look at the price. Serve lightly chilled over the near term.

Cos Terre Siciliane Organic Frappato 2024, Sicily, Italy
$36.95, The Living Vine
Michael Godel – Crunchy with the best of them, light, ethereal and wildly seductive. Can’t, won’t, will not turn away. There are so many plates this frappato will elevate. Every kind of arancino will sing alongside.
David Lawrason – Pinot noir and gamay fans will love this wine, if generally a bit lighter, softer and more genteel. I really like the red fruits, floral, a hint of evergreen and subtle meatiness. It is smooth, warm and cozy with rounded corners, and some trace minerality.

E. Guigal Crozes Hermitage 2021, Rhône, France
$45.95, Vinexx
Michael Godel – Now aged to perfection, the balanced vintage showing in Rhône syrah’s assuredly, poised and positive ways. Top-shelf stuff.

Domaine Queylus Réserve Du Domaine Pinot Noir 2021, Ontario, Canada
$50.70, Marchands des Ameriques
Michael Godel – Domaine Queylus pinot noirs have shown a proven track record for aging amiably and long gone are the shocks and surprises of seeing an older vintage come through VINTAGES. The 2021 is a fairly serious wine and one that should grace tasting menus marked by an ability to communicate, with plates, palates and people alike.

Domaine L’espiegle Gamma Rays 2024, Quebec, Canada
$52.95, The Living Vine
John Szabo – Great to see a Québec wine on LCBO shelves — and from Zaché Hall, just named Québec Vigneron of the Year. This is a low-intervention blend of gamaret and gamay that’s clean and sharply delineated at just 12.1% ABV. Fans of lighter syrah or pinot noir will find kinship. Lightly chill and drink now through 2030.

And that’s it for this edition. We will return to cover the June 6 release with its theme of Chillable Reds.

– David

Use these quick links for access to all of our May 23rd Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 60 days prior.

John’s Top Picks – May 23rd
Lawrason’s Take – May 23rd
Michael’s Mix – May 23rd

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