John Szabo’s Buyer’s Guide to Vintages August 2nd Release

Canada (Wine) Turns 50, Winery of the Year Announced, and Are People Really Buying Local?

By John Szabo MS and David Lawrason, with notes from David Lawrason, Michael Godel and Megha Jandhyala

Canada takes center stage again this week in the Vintages August 2 release, hot on the heels of the final announcements of all platinum award winners, as well as the Best Performing Small Winery and the Winery of the Year at the 25^th annual WineAlign National Awards of Canada. Catch up on all of the news if you missed it. The WineAlign Crü picks their favorite Canadian wines from the release out of an admittedly strong selection, which includes some lesser-known names and intriguing styles, what I’d call a fashionable assortment. We’re told that there’s never been a better time to drink local. Front page on LCBO.com is the “Eh List” touting over 3,000 Ontario- and Canadian-made products, with “90+ new additions.” But are people actually buying more Canadian wine? Anecdotally, I’ve heard from winemakers about the surge in LCBO and licensee sales over the past half year, filling the gap left by American products. So, I decided to investigate the cold hard sales statistics. In other news, David made the pilgrimage this week to Niagara to join the celebration of Inniskillin’s 50^th birthday. Incorporated on July 31, 1975, it is Canada’s first estate winery of modern times. He draws some conclusions about the future by looking at the past.

Money Where Your Mouth is: Are Canadian Wines Sales Up or Down?

There has been a vocal upwelling of support for Canadian grown or made products in the past six months in the wake of the Trump administration’s threat to Canadian sovereignty and attack on the Canadian economy. Most provinces responded, somewhat symbolically by pulling American wine and spirits from government monopoly shelves and often filling the gaps with Canadian products. Historically, I’d say Canadians haven’t generally been too bothered about waving the flag, rather more quietly proud than bombastically so, and also especially circumspect in their views on, and purchases of, Canadian wines.

But what I’ve seen and heard of late is a pretty much unprecedented, at least in my lifetime, galvanizing of national sentiment. In recent conversations, winemakers have been very upbeat about the opportunity that Trump’s foolhardiness has presented for their wines and anecdotally report an increase in sales through all channels, including the LCBO. One small Niagara winery owner told me that sales to the LCBO had grown from about 200 cases last year to more than 1500 cases in just the first half of this year. And while US wines will be back sooner or later, many industry watchers are confident that Canadian wines will have permanently carved out more retail territory by then, winning over former skeptics by their quality, and that some significant percentage of consumers won’t go back to the same old same old US products they purchased before.

Do LCBO statistics support this view? It turns out that they do. And it seems that momentum is gathering, not tapering off.

Sales of Ontario red wines on the General List (just under 200 wines) are up 96.6% over the past six months compared to the same period last year up to July 20 and are up 148.5% in the past month compared to the same month last year.

For the just under 250 white wines on the General List, sales are up 82.8% and 140.3% respectively over the same periods compared to last year. And in Vintages, the story is even more compelling: Reds: +164.3% and +285.3%. And whites: +105% and +152.2%. Those are impressive numbers.

Sales for BC red wines in Vintages are equally remarkable, even if from a much smaller base, up 192.5% over six months, and +345.1% in the last month. Only BC white wines show a decline in sales over the same periods, though this can be explained by the short crop in 2024 which has yet to be reflected in generally later-released red wines.

So, Ontarians, glad you’ve discovered just how far the Canadian wine industry has come in barely half a century. There really has never been a better time to buy local, waving a flag or not.

Inniskillin Turns 50, And So Does the Canadian Wine Industry
By David Lawrason

It struck me as not only poignant moment, but an important one for Canadian wine. Magdalena Kaiser was at the podium in the outdoor piazza in front on Inniskillin’s iconic Barn on the Niagara Parkway.
It was filled with friends of Inniskillin — employees past and present, grape growers, suppliers, regulators, educators and many of us who wrote about the winery from the early days. There were elegant food and wine pouring stations and umbrellas all around. Magdalena had just finished recalling her childhood at “the winery” that her father Karl Kaiser had co-founded with Donald Ziraldo. Canada’s first estate winery of modern times had been incorporated on exactly this date — July 31 — in 1975.

Here is what she said: “As I stand here today, 50 years later, I’m struck by something powerful. What we are living now — this moment, this industry, this community — is exactly the vision that Karl and Donald believed in for Niagara. They saw potential where others didn’t. They believed that Niagara could produce wines of quality and character, wines that could stand with the best in the world — and they set out to prove it. And they did. But they weren’t just building a winery — they were starting a movement. I recently wrote in Decanter magazine that Ontario wine is at the dawn of a golden age. And I truly believe that.”

So do I. As a very close observer and writer about the Canadian wine industry — and especially as co-founder of the National Wine Awards of Canada — that has just announced its winning wines from 1,700 entries from more than 200 wineries across the country — I understood the magnitude of what has been created from this spot and moment in time, in only 50 years. And that, in many ways, as one of the world’s youngest and smallest wine industries, it still feels like something of a beginning for Canada. Not a new age, but indeed a golden age.

Buyer’s Guide Vintages August 2: Canada Coast to Coast White

Benjamin Bridge Wild Rock White 2024, Nova Scotia, Canada
$22.95, Lifford Wine & Spirits (Select Wine Merchants)
John Szabo – Last report we highlighted the lovely Tidal Bay from Blomidon in Nova Scotia, and this week we’re presented with another delightful maritime wine, a lightly spritzy, zesty affair with a sauvignon blanc-like profile minus the green, just the passion fruit and guava portions. (The blend is described as “Sauvignon Blanc-inspired.”) An ideal accompaniment to a seafood tower, ocean-side, al fresco, well chilled, with warm friends.

Mission Hill Family Reserve Pinot Gris 2023, British Columbia, Canada
$25.95, Mark Anthony Group
John Szabo – Certainly more “gris” than “grigio” in style with its broad flavour base and generous orchard fruit, crafted by the Winery of the year.
David Lawrason – From the Winery of the Year at the National Wine Awards of Canada 2025, this is a bright, well-balanced and typical BC pinot gris with ripe aromas of peach, lemon and subtle mint. It is medium bodied, elegant and lively.

Redtail Vineyards Big Bay & Hollow Ridge Chardonnay 2023, Ontario, Canada
$39.00, Redtail Vineyard
John Szabo – A fine bottle from the revamped Redtail operation under winemaking guidance of Bordelais Renan Theilloux, crafted from two newish, highly promising estate vineyards in the heart of premium terroir in Hiller. I like the tight palate and sharp acids in county style, as well as the excellent length and concentration. At or close to peak I’d say, but no urgent rush to drink either.

Buyer’s Guide Vintages August 2: Canada Coast to Coast Red

Cooper’s Hawk Talon Red 2021, Ontario, Canada
$17.95, Cooper’s Hawk
David Lawrason – Ontario needs more inexpensive VQA reds like this quite supple and appealing blend of cabernet franc and merlot from a fine winery in Lake Erie North shore. The nose shows floral, slightly candied berry fruit and vanillin. I expected some sweetness, but it is virtually dry on the finish.

Henry Of Pelham Estate Gamay 2023, Ontario, Canada
$21.95, Henry Of Pelham Family Estate Winery
John Szabo – A nicely pitched, zesty and balanced, well-proportioned gamay, with plenty of tart red berry fruit flavours in the typical varietal idiom. If you’re curious about the mention of “Smith and Smith Vineyard” on the label, I highly recommend this enjoyable read about the history of Pelham.
Michael Godel – The current state of Ontario gamay might be summed up in this 2023 made by the erudite team at Henry of Pelham. In a word ripe and in another, delicious.

Marynissen Heritage Collection Pinot Noir 2021, Ontario, Canada
$24.95, Michael Andrew Brands
John Szabo – John Marynissen was among the first to plant vinifera in the province in 1976 and was an early leader in the industry. Quality dipped in the early part of the century, but I’m happy to see things back on track — try this estate pinot noir as an example. I like the succulence and evenly pitched flavours, making for a delicious wine overall, one that will keep you returning for another sip.
Michael Godel – All things being varietally and regionally equal this 2021 does represent the best of both agricultural and winemaking worlds to speak shiningly and promisingly of a combined teams’ work. Many a pinot noir lover should be impressed with this charming and easy-drinking result.

Wending Home Estate Wending South Red Blend 2020, Ontario, Canada
$24.95, Wending Home Estate Vineyards & Winery
John Szabo – And now for something completely different: a unique and tasty blend of mainly dornfelder, with the balance in cabernet franc, gamay and lemberger, all varieties generally comfortable in the zesty, lighter-bodied spectrum. And it’s drinking perfectly now.
Megha Jandhyala – The Wending South red blend is an intriguing synthesis of several grape varieties, including German varieties, dornfelder and lemberger. Heterogenous flavours — herbal, fruity, and spicy — come together harmoniously here. Tangy and flavourful, with lots of character, this blend is an opportunity to try something off the trodden path at a reasonable price!

Organized Crime Cabernet Franc 2019, Ontario, Canada
$24.95, Rogers & Company
David Lawrason – The Best Performing Ontario Winery at the National Wine Awards 2025 has delivered textbook Niagara Cab Franc from a cooler vintage. It is maturing into a good place, with a fairly lifted nose of strawberry-raspberry fruit, red rose, tobacco and fine wood spice. It is medium bodied and nicely balanced with firm acidity and balanced tannin.

Stratus Alto 2023, Niagara On The Lake, Ontario, Canada
$28.95, Stratus Vineyards
John Szabo – Alto is Stratus’s interpretation of a modern “red” wine, made from a blend of red and white grapes in a generally lighter, more floral and easy-drinking style compared to the estate’s more serious “traditional” reds. Chill lightly and enjoy in the flower of youth.

Soren Boundary Spring 2022, British Columbia, Canada
$38.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
David Lawrason – Soren is a virtual label by Master of Wine Geoff Moss, made at Winemaker’s Cut at the District Wine Village in Oliver. This shows intense fruit and flavours set in an elegant and juicy frame. Lifted, complex aromas include raspberry-pomegranate, sage, graphite and fine oak.

Lakeview Syrah 2020, Ontario, Canada
$40.00, Trajectory Beverage Partner
David Lawrason – Niagara syrah rarely achieves the weight of others, but in an excellent vintage like 2020 it can get close. This reminds me more of a northern Rhone edition in terms of mid-weight, good acidity and classic flavours of smoked meat, licorice, pepper and dark cherry.

Buyer’s Guide Vintages August 2: White & Rosé

Man Free Run Steen Chenin Blanc 2024, Coastal Region, South Africa
$14.95, Vonterra
John Szabo – Steen is the South African name for the variety known elsewhere as chenin blanc, though DNA from the Cape is different from that of the Loire Valley, so I’m supportive of using the local name. Whatever the case, it often proves to be an exceptional value from this part of the world. I’d be happy to chill and enjoy this on any given summer Sunday al fresco.
Michael Godel – The M•A•N Steen is just about as fruit-forward and centric as any in the Western Cape playbook. My goodness man what ripeness voodoo is this? Chill and sip to your steen-heart’s desire from the brand with the interpuncts in its name.
Megha Jandhyala – This inexpensive chenin blanc is easy to like, with its silky-smooth texture and notes of fleshy stone and sweet orchard fruit. There is so much flavour and joy here for less than $15!

Domaine De La Chaise Touraine Sauvignon 2023, Loire, France
$19.95, Five Senses Wine & Spirits
David Lawrason – This is a lovely, even, well balanced and pure Touraine sauvignon that captures this grapes essence in the Loire. It is fresh, elegant and alive, with fine aromas of fresh dill, mint, green apple, grapefruit and elderflower.

Santa Carolina El Pacto Chardonnay 2022, Chile
$18.95, Charton Hobbs
Michael Godel – There is little doubt just how much quality you’ll find in this wine and likely also passion put in by those involved. Rico, in every courtesy afforded and thus respect due is respect given.

Tenute Orestiadi Il Bianco Di Ludovico Riserva 2021, Sicily, Italy
$18.95, Rogers & Company
David Lawrason – This big wine blends native cataratto with chardonnay. Expect intense, tropical aromas of papaya, pineapple and a notable sappy and exotic ginger and evergreen note. It is medium-full bodied, rich and warm yet tart-edged and bitter at the same time. Curious!

Roche De Bellene Mâcon Villages 2022, Burgundy, France
$20.95, Nicholas Pearce Wines Inc.
Michael Godel – Mâcon-Villages is the first release through Vintages for wines made by the late, great Nicholas Potel. A winemaker and négoce who gifted chardonnay at Bourgogne Villages level to us here in Ontario with nothing asked for in return but a smile and love. The 2022 is sharp chardonnay and a sharpest value surely to be found in these parts. Thank you as always, Nico, for sharing and always putting Ontario wine consumers first.

Jean Max Roger La Grange Dimiere Sancerre Rosé 2024, Loire, France
$30.95, Connexion Oenophilia
John Szabo – Serious quality rosé here from the always reliable Jean-Max Roger, with flavour depth and multi-dimensions above the mean, table-friendly, drinking well now but no rush.
David Lawrason – This is a rare Sancerre rosé, made from pinot noir — the only red grape authorized in this Loire appellation. It has a very delicate, pretty nose of strawberry and mandarin peel. Some subtle herbals as well. It is light to medium bodied, delicate yet warming and elegant.
Michael Godel – The rosé game is elevated for the Loire Valley, vintage in and vintage out from Roger’s La Grange Dîmère Sancerre. Consistently stuffed with substance, concentration and meaning. That’s how you do it, to attract willing audiences, of those who like to think and also those who just want to drink.

Buyer’s Guide Vintages August 2nd: Red & Fortified

Alceño Twelve 12 Meses Monastrell 2021, Murcia, Spain
$17.95, The Case For Wine
John Szabo – A bold and widely appealing, dark fruit-flavoured, oak-kissed, red made from “the oldest monastrell vines of our historic growers.” (Presumably quite old.) The hot Spanish sun is on full display through the lightly raisined/baked black fruit flavours in a typical Mediterranean expression.
Megha Jandhyala – This is an open and inviting monastrell, full of flavour, including lush red and dark fruit, spice, and savoury herbs. The fact that it is organically produced and very reasonably priced makes it that much more attractive!

Askos Cannonau Di Sardegna 2023, Sardinia, Italy
$18.95, Majestic Wine Cellars
David Lawrason – Cannonau is the local name for the grenache grape, that thrives on this hot, rocky Mediterranean island. A sense of that terroir can be felt in this firm edition. Normally grenache makes soft wines, but this one stands up straight with a rugged feel. Aromas of strawberry/cherry jam, pepper, dried herbs are bang on.

J. Vidal Fleury Cairanne 2022, Rhône, France
$24.95, Family Wine Merchants
David Lawrason – This is a poised, balanced and upstanding southern Rhone blend with a pretty nose of plum, violet, pepper and dried herbs. It is medium-full bodied with just right acidity and notable tannin that suggests ageing another year or three.

Beronia Viñas Viejas 2020, Rioja, Spain
$24.95, Woodman Wines & Spirits
Megha Jandhyala – This is a wonderfully concentrated and layered Rioja — classically crafted, with well-managed barrel influence from both American and French oak. It strikes a balance between maturity and vitality, with nuances of age adding flavour and textural refinement.

Remy Ferbras Châteauneuf Du Pape 2021, Rhône, France
$50.95, Dbino Inc.
Megha Jandhyala – Remy Férbras’ Chateauneuf-du-Pape is rich and velvety, yet graceful and balanced. With dense flavours of red and dark fruit, herbs, violets, and spice, this is a special wine, worth the splurge. It is beautiful now but can also be cellared until the close of the decade.

González Byass La Copa Reserva Vermouth, Jerez, Spain
$24.95, Woodman Wines & Spirits
John Szabo – Made with oloroso sherry and pedro ximénez liqueur wine, La Copa is on the sweeter side of the spectrum but with lovely bitters and rancio character showing through, also bark, quinine, licorice, wild mint and angelica root – so much going on here in harmony and balance. Sip over ice or use sparingly in a Negroni lest it overtake the flavour profile.
Megha Jandhyala – A glass of vermouth on ice is like a taste of Barcelona in the summer, as it is a very popular drink amongst locals there. The La Copa is a flavourful and distinctive example, brimming with botanicals, including oregano and mint, palo santo, citrus notes and cola nut.

That’s all for this report, see you ’round the next bottle.

John Szabo, MS

Use these quick links for access to all of our August 2nd Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 30 days prior.

John’s Top Picks – August 2nd
Lawrason’s Take – August 2nd
Megha’s Picks – August 2nd
Michael’s Mix – August 2nd

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