Alexander Powell
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Reviews
Pascal Aufranc Vignes De 1939 Chénas 2011
Beaujolais, France$17.95
This is a very firm beaujolais, that doesn't give anywhere near its best on the first day; where I felt it to be really closed, and even diluted. It fills out considerably over quite some time, which is atypical of beaujolais. Nevertheless, here on day 3 open, it's become quite lovely. Beautiful dark cherry, peach, rocks and bubblegum nose; that's deepened so much. On the palate it's all bing cherry and volcanic rock, so pure and lavish. Real solid beaujolais now, but needed a lot of air.
Domaine Faiveley Mercurey 2010, Ac
Burgundy, France$22.95
For me this is outstanding value. This wine opens magnificently after 2 hours, and changes in between. Wonderful nose, consisting of a uncommon aroma of carrots and beets, backed by pure pinot raspberry,wax, gentle baking spice from the wood, and stone. The palate is no less; with juicy, well-balanced acid, armfuls of chiseled fruit concentration for the money, perfectly in-check tannin and a quite long, mineral-ridden finish. I almost can't believe the showing from this wine, the very next bottle I opened; the night after a sound Corton. This is what I wish to get from everyday burgundy.
Pedro Escudero Fuente Elvira Verdejo 2011, Do Rueda
Rueda, Spain$15.95
Distinctive nose of pear drop,lemon peel, honey tangerine, honeydew melon, and a strong floral element. On the palate it is quite ripe, round, dense and full-bodied. Good concentration of pear drop and lemon flavor, acidity is only moderate, but just enough to keep this wine from feeling fat. No sign of oak, the fairly high alcohol is well-covered, and the wine finishes smooth despite its power. Quite a good wine at the price!
Sol De Andes Reserva Especial Syrah 2008, Colchagua Valley
Colchagua Valley, Chile$12.75
This started with some brett and pepper over jammy plum, which was a pleasant surprise. After an hour or so the brett dissipated, and overwhelming black jam fruit and "chilean mint" took stage. There's heavy toasted oak presence, but not too much for the fruit. On the palate the tannin is soft and meager, acid just present, and fruit is rich and confected.
Still, it finishes simple and tasty, and it's easy to enjoy. Loses some concentration after the first day, but it's oak blends in better. Overall, a great buy for a standard gathering.
Villa Matilde Rocca Dei Leoni Aglianico 2008, Igt Campania
Campania, Italy$19.95
This wine opens up with a characterful nose exuding of maple-smoked bacon, old leather, paprika, some mushroom, delightfully dungy black fruits and a hint of shoe polish. Nice soft, meaty texture, chewy-dusty medium tannin and a finish reminiscent of black-pepper-strewn steak. Fairly long - a great, interesting buy for 20 bucks!
Villa Raiano Taurasi 2008, Docg
Campania, Italy$23.95
This drinks like a rabid wildebeest! Entirely untame, rough and enormous like a stone wall. Having said that, it is an interesting specimen indeed. The nose is stark with cedarwood, fresh ground black pepper, nail varnish, campfire, lead, and perhaps chili-laden black plum. The palate is monstrous, with some black plum soaked in tar, massive tannin, strong acid, and a full yet fatless; bodybuilder physique. Interesting stuff, but hardly drinkable for the majority. But at $23, I'm enjoying it!